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Old Nov 11, 2012, 12:10 PM
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2New Bee2

Two New Bee2's - thanks Ming! You can't beat the value of his kits.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 04:56 PM
Objects in mirror are losing
1000MPH's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALEX HEWSON View Post
So I have started a BeeVolution for a local guy who wants a nice first DS Model.

The cores are very warped and not even. Hollow spots etc. Any advice with keeping them somewhere of respectable during the build? Should I weight it flat along the TE and rear part of the chord in the upright position?

I have replaced the stock 1/4" carbon/fiberglass joining tube with a length of 1/4" spring steel rod, and then added the two 3x1 carbon pieces in the arc top and bottom as Stu did. Next is some 6x1 carbon for the TE.

Should I put any more spars in? Or will the Fiber Tape/Lam Film be enough over the top?

Aim is for a 150mph capable BeeVo, so around the 40oz mark

6v Eneloop, HS5485HB servos.

Stu, did you fix any part of the trailing edge? Or have full span elevons?
I've had a lot of Bee kits and haven't seen any that are really bad as far as warping goes. Most are a little warped by their nature but once the spars are in they're fine. Divots and dents are filled with spackle. When you tape, lay the cores flat on the building surface.
You have enough spars but for overkill you can add rods about 1.5" from the LE. Really not needed if you're doing 10 mil new stuff.

My 40oz doesn't have any fixed TE and i prefer it like that for ease of build and flying characteristics.

Nice Scaredy, what are the details?
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 05:03 PM
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Oh, and here's my 70oz Bee. it has fixed TE.



Here are the Specs...

"70oz
4 layers of 3M 8959
Carbon Sub TE spar
Standard Tube Spar with steel rod insert
Leading edge I-Beam config carbon rods
Ribbon spar
5 cell AA pack
Standard Hitec Digital servos moved out to 9.5" from CL
Full TE w 4" fixed inboard and out.
4-40 linkages.
Spruce and balsa winglets
CG has been tested at the usual 8-1/2" but it's much more stable at 8-1/4". Inverted flight is still good but I'm going to have to do some tweaking.

Speeds: Maiden 166MPH at Weldon.
200? Maybe."
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 06:35 PM
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Bee2

I don't have a scale to weigh them but they are light. I like to fly light pretty much no matter the wind - I've flown the first one from 5 mph-40 mph.

I think my CG is at 8-1/4". I had to add a lot of weight on the first one because I put the battery towards the back of the pre-cut hole but this time I put the batteries up at the front and one was right on and one I had to add one little piece of lead to.

They're not that "pretty" up close but they do the job - my covering leaves a lot to be desired, but since my flying does too I don't worry about it!

Flew Weldon today - ESE around 12MPH or so I'd guess - not too great but flyable - got everything dusty at least!


Mark
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:03 PM
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Awesome Stu! Thank for the info. I will endeavor to post some pics of what I have done to the one I'm building. You may be able to add sopme pointers better that way.

You are still the master!
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 01:42 AM
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How much lead did you put up front? And where abouts? Would be handy to know before I cover. Would mean no cutting into the nose after covering
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 07:24 AM
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1000MPH's Avatar
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Thanks Alex. There's a lot of guys building nice foamies but not too many posting build threads or pics these days. I wish they would because I'm still learning.
If you look at this pic from the 3rd post you can see 2 tiny holes on the bottom where the old servo locations were. That's where I added lead shot. I think it was 4-5 oz in each along with some epoxy. On my 70oz I added 10oz to each and came out nose heavy despite making some heavy winglets.

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Old Nov 12, 2012, 08:37 PM
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Cool. Much appreciated
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 10:24 PM
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Oh just found that even after scuffing and putting small holes to aid adhesion, Gorilla PU glue doesn't stick to the Windrider EPP
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 07:37 AM
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It's pretty much all about the goop for EPP. I use white PU as filler in spar slots, servo bays, etc. I use thin CA for the ribbon spars. Thinned goop for most everything else.
In the pic above, you are looking at a lot of spackle, yellow and white PU, and thinned goop.
That pic was taken right after thinned gooping so it looks ugly and uneven but as it dries it smoothes out nicely.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 09:08 AM
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I'm getting ready for a trip to Weldon this weekend so I'm inspecting and cycling batteries in about 12 planes.
It's been awhile since I built this, I just verified that there is no LE spar on this wing, only what I wrote in the first post:
.310x.032 ribbon spar split lengthwise
.25 Solid FG rod in stock location
Carbon and spruce subTE spar
My 70oz has the added beef, (along with some bondo in spots so it will explode nicely on impact)
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:15 PM
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Is there a better way to do the fins other than flat material, i.e. airfoiled material? Or does it not help much because its just a chevron?
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:40 PM
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I was thinking the same thing, Aaron. I may try some form of foil on the fins of the Beevo I'm building.

Lots of filling and sanding going on here!
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 07:28 AM
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Maybe. The Gulp has a 'foiled fin.
My idea behind these 40oz ers isn't all out speed but a quick building, versatile DS foamy.
My wings have huge fins because I like the way they fly better and coro does a very good job.
Come out this weekend and see.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Should have taken a photo to show how warped these cores are, but here is where I am at:
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