I built this wing in Sept ’10 and it quickly became one of my favorite DS planes. Fast, stable, aerobatic, easy build.
I would love to see a few more out on the slope for some glass-off DS furball action. Those 100oz JWs just don’t seem to bounce well.
The Basics:
· Original Bee kit
· 5 cell batt pack
· .310x.032 ribbon spar split lengthwise
· .25 Solid FG rod in stock location
· Carbon and spruce subTE spar
· 3 layers of strapping tape
· Monokote
· Oversized winglets
· Upgraded balsa elevons
· 4-40 linkages
· Ditched the coro covers for scrap EPP
· Servos moved outboard - Cheap Hitec HS-485 full sized servos I got off RCG. If you’ve got Ti geared ones left over from a D80 you can use those for extra bling.

I used spruce and left over .032 for the Sub TE spar. I attached them before I glued the wing halves together.

I must've got lazy because this is the next pic I took.
Freshly gooped. Looks like a mess but it will dry smooth.
This is the bottom of the wing. You can see the ribbon spar and the EPP/White PU/Spackle I used to cover the radio and battery bays. I left the stock servo cutouts empty for lead. Just a small hole for the shot.

That's pretty much it for construction pics. I covered the wings in 8959 3M extreme. I use my own taping pattern which is 45 degrees from the opposite trailing edge.I start at the center and work my way out. When I'm done with that there are 2 layers that are weaved in the center but no overlap on the rest of the wing panel. Then I finish up with one more final layer straight across tip to tip.

The stock elevons were ditched and replaced with 1/4" x 1-1/2" TE stock. A little shorter chordwise compared to stock and a little longer. They are also covered in 8959. You can wrap on the bias for extra stiff.
Hinges are a combo of tension and compression hinges made with Duck HD clear. Please don't use strapping tape for hinges, there's no need.
The pushrods are 4-40 Sullivan that is no longer made. Too bad, it's my favorite.
Metal Sullivan clevises both ends. Large DuBro "T" style 237 control horns with 1 or 2 extra screws per.
Using the servo wheel and the #4 hole on the control horn still gives a snappy roll response.

The money shot.
Flies very well at 100-120 and has done 150-165 if you push her.

Nice lookin' wing! Thanks for the build ideas, I've got a RiteWing TL50 waiting on the bench rite now...

Can't....resist......must......build......super... ...heavy.......bee.....now.....

Looks great Stu, thank you for taking the time to put this build log together. I feel inspired!

How much (or little) wind can she fly in at 40oz?

Building heavy 48 Chevron as we speak. Cheers for the build tips, Stu! Going to be handy

The 40oz will easily fly in 15-20, I haven't had an opportunity to fly in lighter wind. This was built for Weldon or somewhere more forgiving than most of my local slopes. I was cautious of the extra weight on my first few flights but now I'm used to it I hardly can tell the difference other than the stability and energy retention.
This plane should get the laminate treatment sometime this year as soon as Aaron shows me his secret technique.

I've always wanted a Rite Wing TL 50. Please post pics.

I would be quite embarrased to post pics of my build after seeing yours!

This will be my third TL50. First one died DSing at Kepps, straight in at about 90 broke the spar. Second one is still flying, but getting haggard. I've been doing "new stuff" over spray painted epp, easy build, but I'm not convinced it's the best for durability. They are good wings, but getting hard to come by!

Dang Stu. When you sad yesterday that you need to start building something I didn't think you were going to start right away. Nice build by the way, I must of motivated you yesterday with my LEG build.

Can't wait to see the final product.

I like the dog's car, your finishing is a killer.

Great photo. Nice build too.

Thanks all. It's back to the grind at work so no more building for a bit. One of the added benefits of a full tape job is it makes covering far easier. Thinned goop is applied and left to dry for about 24 hours. The covering can then be carefully applied without heat and hopefully repositioned before giving it a rubdown with a soft cloth. I get that nice straight edge up front then work my way back usually from the middle to the ends to eliminate bubbles or wrinkles. Then iron at low heat (approx 200) very carefully. Higher heat is then used for tips and sealing edges.