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Old Jan 24, 2013, 11:16 AM
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Sweden, Helsingborg
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Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
Main shaft is 4mm.
Main gear is 114 tooth mod .6 (mod .5 would have been a better choice)
Stock pinion is 13 tooth.
Don't have a feathering shaft so I can't tell you that size.
Quote:
Originally Posted by addifromgermany View Post
I am not sure at the moment what mod the Master needs, I took the 13t pinion that was delivered with the Turnigy motor and this is working fine.
Thes are indeed .6. Theres no way ill be able to find mod .6 2mm pinions locally .
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Xermalk View Post
Thes are indeed .6. Theres no way ill be able to find mod .6 2mm pinions locally .
Just try the 13t that comes with the motor and lower a little bit your throttle in the TX
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by addifromgermany View Post
Just try the 13t that comes with the motor and lower a little bit your throttle in the TX
Actually i can get mod .5 12T 2.3mm pinions, that + lowerd throttle should hopefully work.

Though i will be running without the signal converter.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Xermalk View Post
Actually i can get mod .5 12T 2.3mm pinions, that + lowerd throttle should hopefully work.

Though i will be running without the signal converter.
My Master CP is also flying without converter
The only bad thing without converter: You can not programm your esc with the tx, youl need a programming card or another heli oder rx.
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Last edited by addifromgermany; Jan 24, 2013 at 12:56 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:28 PM
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Sweden, Helsingborg
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Originally Posted by addifromgermany View Post
My Master CP is also flying without converter
The only bad thing without converter: You can not programm your esc with the tx, youl need a programming card or another heli oder rx.
Hrm, so without the converter i wont be able to program the governor mode?
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Xermalk View Post
Hrm, so without the converter i wont be able to program the governor mode?
Not with your Devo, but its is even very more comfortable to programm your ESC with a matching programming card.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 02:15 PM
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Meh, i think ill just grab everything from hobbyking, weathers goring to be bad next week anyway.

2627 + prog card + 12t pinion + 30 a plush = 76.9 $ locally

for 50$ on hk i can get 10/11/13 pinions, 2 batterys and a orange rx extra.

With the same shipping cost.

To bad they have no idea when they will get the blheli flashing sticks back in stock.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 07:35 PM
Brent 黑雁
BThirsk's Avatar
Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xermalk View Post
Meh, i think ill just grab everything from hobbyking, weathers goring to be bad next week anyway.

2627 + prog card + 12t pinion + 30 a plush = 76.9 $ locally

for 50$ on hk i can get 10/11/13 pinions, 2 batterys and a orange rx extra.

With the same shipping cost.

To bad they have no idea when they will get the blheli flashing sticks back in stock.
I would be carefull with the Mod .5 gears. If you have a 450, it has mod .5. It is not the same and will cause excessive drag until it eats up the main gear.
I think is was Vendetta Rc that use the Mod.6 gear.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
I would be carefull with the Mod .5 gears. If you have a 450, it has mod .5. It is not the same and will cause excessive drag until it eats up the main gear.
I think is was Vendetta Rc that use the Mod.6 gear.
These? http://webshop.minicars.se/Welcome/D...t=true&pid=521

Not sure if their mod.6 but they are 2.3mm.

Im wondering if i should just get a 450 motor instead, and a 40a esc. As finding mod .6 3.175mm pinions is easier.
A 450 motor in a 250 would utterly devastate the battery time though :<
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Last edited by Xermalk; Jan 25, 2013 at 06:20 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 06:57 AM
pitch collector
Sweden, Gothenburg
Joined Jan 2013
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Originally Posted by mcmoyer View Post
Is there a "Dummies Guide to Adding LED's to Your Master CP" around?
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Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
I took a balance socket, the two outside wires, and soldered 3 LEDs in series (i.e. anode to cathode) I think I also have a 25mA SMD constant current diode soldered in there too but the heli is in the box in the basement so I can't check right now. I just left the wires long enough that I could place them anywhere. I used super fine (magnet) wire to keep the weight & flexibility to a minimum. Covered any exposed contacts in heatshrink/ShoeGoo.
If I ever got so good at flying that I could focus on anything other than not chrashing, I probably would have installed LED strips. They are all over eBay at low cost, in all colors and lengths. You can have a 5 m RGB roll for about $20.

They expect a nominal 12 V, but will happily work from 10 to 13 V.
Most can be cut every 10 cm/every 3 LED's as they really are a number of serially connected 3 LED strings, connected in parallell.

I like the idea of using the balance socket for LED's, as you can choose to use them or not.
If you're installing only one LED, you could use the BEC output, maybe via an unused socket in the receiver. Just make sure you don't short anything...

There are [pick the biggest number you can think of] 'connect a LED'-guides on the net. One of the first ones to pop up on Google is this one: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm

As for the 'Dummies guide', it's really not very hard.

LED's are current driven, not voltage.
A LED need a certain current to put out a nice shine.
At that current, you get a certain voltage drop over the LED.
Appropriate current, voltage drop and light characteristics can be found in the datasheet of the LED (unless you are buying bulk on eBay).
I'd say that a normal red LED wants about 20 mA and has a voltage drop of 1.7 V.

So, determine what voltage your supply has, which on the Master would be either about 11 V or 5 V if using the BEC.
If you choose the 11 V and the above generic red LED, you could put 6 LED's in series (one after the other), and a current limiting resistor.
This is because we must stay under 11 V, so 6 x 1,7 V = 10.2 V.
The remaining 0.8 V is not enought to power a seventh LED, but we need to take it out to give the six LED's a comfy work environment.

Resistance is voltage divided by current, R=U/I.
Remaining voltage (U) after each LED's voltage drop is 0.8 V.
The current (I) we want is 20 mA (0.02 A).
Optimal resistance would then be 0.8/0.02 = 40 ohm.
Resistors come in standard values where the closest ones are 39 ohm and 47 ohm.
I would go for the 39 ohm, nearly spot on.

Good luck!

Hugo
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 07:06 AM
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Man, i really wish walkera would go away from gyro pots and move the gyro settings to a extra channel in the tx. Would be awesome to tweak gyro settings midflight.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 07:27 AM
pitch collector
Sweden, Gothenburg
Joined Jan 2013
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Originally Posted by Xermalk View Post
Man, i really wish walkera would go away from gyro pots and move the gyro settings to a extra channel in the tx. Would be awesome to tweak gyro settings midflight.
I'm new to this, but I thought that gyro gain was available on the transmitter?
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by LostTheTail View Post
I'm new to this, but I thought that gyro gain was available on the transmitter?
Only tail gyro, not elev/alie.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 05:49 PM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,781 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xermalk View Post
These? http://webshop.minicars.se/Welcome/D...t=true&pid=521

Not sure if their mod.6 but they are 2.3mm.

Im wondering if i should just get a 450 motor instead, and a 40a esc. As finding mod .6 3.175mm pinions is easier.
A 450 motor in a 250 would utterly devastate the battery time though :<
Here is one choice. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVXH8&P=SM
We just need more grear options.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
Here is one choice. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVXH8&P=SM
We just need more grear options.
I can get the 11-13T pinions locally, though 14t + 4200 kv? .
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