Originally Posted by Rollmops67

It rains or snows here, and it's too dusky to fly when I come home from work.
So this evening I did do 2 mods I wanted to do for a long time.
The first is adding a low voltage alarm wich is connected through the balancing connector of the battery, the second a bright white led in the front, to help in orientation when the heli is far away (I had allready 3 crashes with different helis because of orientation lost)
I choosed a low voltage alarm with adjustable voltage threshold, this is mandatory. Had one day some more primitive low voltage beepers with a fixed threshold of 3,3 V, this is way to low, when it begins to beep, it's too late to come down safely.
I did some tests, and with a threshold of 3,5 volts, I have more than a minute remaining to come down before hearing the rotor speed drop because of the LVC.
I powered the LED by soldering wires on the voltage alarm. To do that I had to cut a little piece of the rear protection.
I bought a bright white led of 5 mm in diameter, this one works at about 20 mA with a voltage of 3V.
So I had to add a serial resistor.
The voltage drop to achieve is 12,6 V (fully charged battery) minus the led voltage of 3 V = 9,6 V
So the theoretical value of the resistor is 9,6 / 0,02 = 480 ohms.
I took a standard resistor of 470 ohm with a maximum power dissipation of 0,5 Watt.
I glued a little PCB below the ESC of the heli, the LED and the resistor are soldered there.
And I glued the low voltage beeper at the right side of the battery holder.
In both case I took pattex contact adhesive.
Put on or off the canopy is as simple as before the mods
Attached are some fotos.

Have nice flights and smooth landings.

Roland

Hi,
I am using the same low voltage beeper as you, works pretty fine.
FIrst i also playes around with one and more white leds at the front but at least I installed a red car-tail-led set for my v450 and my master cp. They have several bright red LEDs mounted to any direction.

Not sure why everyone is so fixed on getting the Walkera MG servos that still aren't in stock, no idea when available, and have yet to have a write up on the forums as to how good they really are.

I purchased the Hitec 5055mg's, and the Hitec programmer/tester. Had them quickly, installed them with no issues, and was able to change the direction, and set a perfect 90 degree alignment with the programmer. I got them in the US, and couldn't be happier. As a matter fact, the only two local hobby shops near me actually have them in stock.

I've used the programmer/tester with other servos as well, so it can provide additional value. I tested my Fusonics that I planned to install in the v400 and found two of them wired incorrectly.

I think the difference between Walkera $12-13 or the Hitec $17-19, makes it an easy choice.

Originally Posted by chrisnc

Not sure why everyone is so fixed on getting the Walkera MG servos that still aren't in stock, no idea when available, and have yet to have a write up on the forums as to how good they really are.

I purchased the Hitec 5055mg's, and the Hitec programmer/tester. Had them quickly, installed them with no issues, and was able to change the direction, and set a perfect 90 degree alignment with the programmer. I got them in the US, and couldn't be happier. As a matter fact, the only two local hobby shops near me actually have them in stock.

I've used the programmer/tester with other servos as well, so it can provide additional value. I tested my Fusonics that I planned to install in the v400 and found two of them wired incorrectly.

I think the difference between Walkera $12-13 or the Hitec $17-19, makes it an easy choice.

What did you have to do to make them fit?

Tell me if I just plug it here http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=23485, it will work?

Originally Posted by chrisnc

Not sure why everyone is so fixed on getting the Walkera MG servos that still aren't in stock, no idea when available, and have yet to have a write up on the forums as to how good they really are.

I purchased the Hitec 5055mg's, and the Hitec programmer/tester. Had them quickly, installed them with no issues, and was able to change the direction, and set a perfect 90 degree alignment with the programmer. I got them in the US, and couldn't be happier. As a matter fact, the only two local hobby shops near me actually have them in stock.

I've used the programmer/tester with other servos as well, so it can provide additional value. I tested my Fusonics that I planned to install in the v400 and found two of them wired incorrectly.

I think the difference between Walkera $12-13 or the Hitec $17-19, makes it an easy choice.

Ive been wondering the same thing .

To make them fit all you have to do is narrow the width of the tabs so they fit in the slots in the frame and servo holder like the originals do . Also set direction and center arms with the programmer . They work excellent and are tough . I crashed hard enough when the tail motor quite in flight and slammed into the ground that one of the servo horns broke but the servos lived . With the history of walkera servos why not go hitec or futaba .

Originally Posted by teremok

Tell me if I just plug it here http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=23485, it will work?

Do not use that servo, its sloppy, twitches, dosnt move smoothly, and is a few degress of centerd on the master cp.
It also needs Extensive modifications of the frame to get it to fit, these mods will make the frame weaker and it will crack in a crash.
And then you have to do the mods all over again.

Originally Posted by 54885488

Ive been wondering the same thing .

Those servos are ~30$ each and the programmer 50$ here in Sweden.

Originally Posted by chrisnc

Not sure why everyone is so fixed on getting the Walkera MG servos that still aren't in stock, no idea when available, and have yet to have a write up on the forums as to how good they really are.

So far, my metal geared servo has proven to be stronger than the other two plastic ones. It's also a lot cheaper if you don't have the programmer already. $30 for all three walkera servos from Banggood...(if you could get them)

There's a lot to be said about just being able to drop the servo in to without modification

Xermalk,
That makes sense then. Had no idea the Hitec's were so expensive in Sweden. I was just watching the thread and trying to figure out everyone's frustration.

@ chrisnc - I seen this coming with my purchase of the V400D02 and have the Hitech HPP-21 and its time to fire it up.

Tell me how you power it? Picture if it applies.

For those future users of the HPP-21 or other of their models, the software install for many of us (Win7 x6 Pro for me) require "before" you download go to user account control and drop the slider all the way down. Download and bring it back up. And reboot. Something about the file does not come across if you don't and it will not install correctly. I think it installed but would not open.
It will install and run after your settings are restored.

Check the date of their version and if its recent the above may be null.


My PC did not like the stroking to "Never Notify" and back but a restart cured it.

Originally Posted by Xermalk

Those servos are ~30$ each and the programmer 50$ here in Sweden.

How much are the walkera servos in sweden ?

Originally Posted by 54885488

How much are the walkera servos in sweden ?

Obviously i had to import them from china, you cant get Any walkera spare parts in sweden as far as i know.

Master CP Swash Plate Leveling,

Mine don't look good. Lots of things look off to me so I want to pop my cherry setting one up wise.

I have searched and have a basic idea but wanted to ask here in particular for the Master CP to see what you guys do as far as the steps.
I'm unclear on the radio and pitch setup in preparation or even if the pitch arms stay on during this or what should be done first.

There is so much info out there on this procedure its overloading me. So I need the Master CP guys words on it.

I am a machinist so I have a level slab and an Interapid indicator and have the measuring method handled. I just slide it around on a planer guage block without moving the heli and write it down.

I just need a jump start if I can get it.

Originally Posted by gapi

Master CP Swash Plate Leveling,

Mine don't look good. Lots of things look off to me so I want to pop my cherry setting one up wise.

I have searched and have a basic idea but wanted to ask here in particular for the Master CP to see what you guys do as far as the steps.
I'm unclear on the radio and pitch setup in preparation or even if the pitch arms stay on during this or what should be done first.

There is so much info out there on this procedure its overloading me. So I need the Master CP guys words on it.

I am a machinist so I have a level slab and an Interapid indicator and have the measuring method handled. I just slide it around on a planer guage block without moving the heli and write it down.

I just need a jump start if I can get it.

First thing to note is that a perfectly level swash may not give a perfect hover with a walkera FBL unit. I haven't used the master CP's unit before but every other walkera FBL unit I've used needs the swash tilted a bit to the (tail in) right to hover correctly.

So for a full setup start by pulling the head, swash and all the links.

Next it's time to level the servo arms. This needs to be done at mid-stick. Set your TH pitch curve to linear (see the ST1 or 2 setup in your manual for %s)so at 50% throttle you get either 50 or 0 output. Bind the heli and then put your throttle at mid stick with the TH on and look at the servo arms, they should be level to the ground. If not then first swap around the servo arms to get as close as you can, then use subtrim to fine tune.

Now put your swash and head back on and connect your links. re-bind and with TH on put it back at mid-stick. Now check to make sure that there is enough room for your swash to go min to max pitch. This can be eyeballed but should be close. Don't worry about exact blade pitch right now except that at mid-stick the blades are close to 0*.

Now level your swash with the servo to swash links. Use your guage on the ends of the swash horns where the ball links attatch. Once level repeat the previous step to make sure you didn't move your swash range too much.

Next move the swash from full neg pitch to full positive slowly making sure it's level through it's entire travel. Then at full negative and positive pitch give full cyclic in all directions to make certain that nothing binds at full collective and full cyclic. It's emberassing to crash because of swash binding!

Finally it's time to adjust the swash to blade grip links so that you have 0* blade pitch at mid-stick. It's easiest on this size heli to pull both blades back and eyeball them level.

Hooray it's leveled!

Now go fly. Be prepared for it to drift left in a hover. If it does, adjust the swash angle by taking a turn out of the right (tail in) swash link. Re-try, if it still drifts a bit left add a turn to the left swash link. *phew* now you should be ready to go fly with a properly setup head.