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Old Jul 15, 2012, 03:50 PM
Registered User
Norfolk, England
Joined Sep 2001
7,457 Posts
Mount your servos how you like mate.
Wood is funny old stuff. Strictly speaking, balsa is a hardwood (no, I'm not suggesting you use it for strut mounts) and pine is a softwood. I think I probably had something more like beech in mind, but a lamination of ply and pine (where it needs to be shaped) would be less likely to split than pine alone. Definitely be easier to shape than beech.

Pete
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 05:21 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,406 Posts
Craig - when I looked at your picture of the strut mounting blocks, I noticed the lozenge mask behind and thought the blocks were shaped stamps for printing lozenges.......funny how a preconception clouds a mind.......

Pat
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 09:03 PM
What's 3D?
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
3,316 Posts
Peter, i seem to recall having much the same discussion with you when I made the lower wing Center section for the Bristol, and your horror at my using Tasmanian oak I think in all honesty this so called pine is in fact tasmanian oak as well, just labeled wrong at the hardware store, will be just fine though.
Pat after all my searching for for friskit masking for my lozenges I did not end up using the clear side of each template but used the waxed backing paper of the friskit instead, the transparent masks ended up as waste, that was one that got away no way on earth is my hand steady enough to paint them freehand as you do!

Cheers
Craig
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 06:13 AM
What's 3D?
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
3,316 Posts
Been pottering away with the top wings on and off over the last few days, these were framed up as normal, but care needs to be taken with a few things, there are a lot of different ribs in it's make up, and not many are the same. the servos mount inside the ply R15 ribs, and the rib needs to be drilled for servo retaining screws before it is fitted, and be sure that you will be able to get the servos in place once the wing is framed up. i will be making the servo arm covers removable so that i can take the servos out if the need ever arises ( i am a HD fitter by trade and servicability is always on my mind ). the last thing to be watched out for on assembly is that the forward interplane strut mount is orientated the right way, there is only about 1mm difference if it goes in the wrong way but this may be enough to put a slight twist in the outer wing panels when she is all buttoned together, just need to check them over the plan to be sure, i'm sure Pete made them this way for a reason.
with the basic wing framed up the root rib was glued in after setting the outer end up over a 3/4 block to set the diheadral, and the outer 3 ribs were glued in, these have to be made up in situ, and shaped with the tip taper.
i put a reference line around the wing tip and duct tape over R19 and sanded the tip and outer ribs to my desired shape, using my refernence line and tape as sanding limits, and to help keep the profile. i did this with the ailerons still attached so as to accurately carry the taper along the whole tip chord. once done the ailerons will be seperated and the rest of the shaping will be done.
almost lost my top wing to our inquisitive greyhound Coco, caught her just as she picked it up from my building board, luckily no damage done
my motor arrived today from HK, so now once i have finished with the wings i can get the fuse shaping finished off and join the halves, but it's nearly time to head back up to work.

Craig
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 07:23 AM
What's 3D?
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
3,316 Posts
just did a little weigh in now that all the major structures are done, the results are obviously only an indication at this stage but are starting to tell me that my 4 1/2 lb target weight is not very likely to happen, i have only been using titebond, no CA from memory, and the only epoxy i have used was for securing the brass tubing at the lower wing joiner, gear and cabaine strut lashings, and the lower wing strut mounting blocks.

component weights at this stage are,

fuselage 618g 21.8 oz
tail plane and fin 47g 1.65oz
top wing and CS 232g 8.2 oz
bottom wing + joiner rods 171g 6.0 oz
power sys, inc prop + spnr 308g 10.8 oz
flap servos and mounts 26g 0.92oz
4 x HS82mg servos 72g 2.5 oz
U/C inc wheels - spats 188g 6.6 oz

totals at this stage 1662g 58.50oz 3.66lb

by comparison the only other model of roughly the same size i have is my FMS 109 which
comes in at 2140g 75.5oz, 4.72lb minus battery.
that flys very well at this weight and slows down nicely especially with the flaps, i figure that with the extra wing area of the 51 it will obviously not be a floater, but should fly quite nicely, much like your average sports plane. will definately be keeping an eye on weight, dont want it to blow out unnecessarily.

just thought you might be interested Peter.

Craig
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 08:47 AM
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Albuquerque, NM USA
Joined Sep 2003
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"Floater" is a relative term I have found. I consider Pat Tritle's planes (most of them) floaters. They come in around 6-8oz/sqft wing loading. Peter's are usually 10-12 oz/sqft. I have flown several planes in the 20oz/sqft range.

Of all, Peter's are the most 'flexible' when it comes to flying in wind and turbulence. Slower flying, yet about to handle the 'normal' breezes.

But, the slimers at the local field consider my 8lb 60" WACO YMF a 'floater'. Heck, if it is less than 80" span and 30lb they consider it a 'floater'.

I guess if it flies slower than most of your planes it is a floater.
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 05:18 PM
Charles Sherman
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Victoria BC
Joined Sep 2009
277 Posts
Fine work as usual.
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 04:08 AM
What's 3D?
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
3,316 Posts
Back to the real world, and the build continues. started out with the lower wings and sanding the tips to shape, these were done the same as the top wings using my red reference line, and pvc duct tape to get the shape i was after. the next job was to bend up the cabaine struts, these were done over the plans for the main strut members, with the diagonal braces being done in situ. i measured up and cut a wedge that would ensure the top wing incidence was kept as per the plan and this was placed in position as the center section was mounted over the cabaine struts. with all in position, the strut diagonals were measured bent and soldered into position.

Craig
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 06:51 AM
Superbobik
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Joined Jun 2012
40 Posts
Hi Craig,
Beautiful work , looks fantastic.
Regards John
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 07:19 AM
What's 3D?
trumps's Avatar
Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
3,316 Posts
Cheers mate, slowly but surely getting there. a great design and kit are making things easy!

Craig
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 12:56 AM
What's 3D?
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
3,316 Posts
Have got enough of the big bits built to do a mock up (couldn't resist ). the fuse halves are only held together with a lacky band at the moment as i am still messing with the motor mount which i will adress in the next update, also the forward interplane struts wich required more of an angle on the bends than shown on the plan. as you will notice in the top down photos the top wing CS mountings will need some tweaking as they are obviously a bit skewed at this stage. once this is done, and the motor mount fully tweaked to my liking it will be time to join the fuse halves and the associated jobs this entails.

Craig
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 05:51 AM
What's 3D?
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
3,316 Posts
the 1/8 motor mount ply pieces were assembled with the M piece to the front as against to the rear as shown on the plan, this was to assist in spacing the motor forward a bit further the motor was mounted with a couple of small washers underneath the the top, and LHS of the X mount to give the left and down thrust required after making sure that the spinner backplate would be centered with the fuselage. the ESC will be mounted under the battery tray.
the motor and mount were fitted, the outer sleeve of the elevator control was routed through its anchor in the servo bay and the fuse halves were finally joined together permantly. when the fuse joint is dry i can begin shaping the front end and top of the cowl, i will also run the 1/8 balsa strip down the horizontal longerons, and vertical longerons, also any gaps in the sheeting will be filled with scrap balsa before final sanding.

BTW Peter, my mistake about the IP strut lengths, i was misreading the plan

Craig
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 09:06 AM
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Phoenix, AZ
Joined Oct 2004
1,854 Posts
Craig, the mock-ups look really good. This definitely is one of those that could be displayed in just the bare bones . What covering material are you planning on using?

D-Rock
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 06:39 PM
What's 3D?
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
3,316 Posts
Cheers mate, she will be a pretty little airframe once the front end is all carved up, I love how it transitions to the stringered back end. I will be using polyspan to cover her.

Cheers
Craig
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 07:12 PM
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Perth WA
Joined Feb 2007
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Excellent work Craig - you're really getting a move on with this one!
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