Originally Posted by Leadfoot

My plan is to use 1/2" blue foam for the wing, fuse sides, vertical and horizontal stabs and 6mm depron for the top and bottom sheeting on the fuse.

This is a very slim design in comparison to the Bandit, so it should really haul! Or at least that's the hope at this point!

Steve

That should cut the building time down for the wing and fuselage. I am guessing you are just going the flat plate route instead of the KFM4?

Ordered a 342W motor and 50A ESC tonight. If my Pat AUW comes out at 32 oz that will be 171 w/lb, so that should give me reasonable performance.

SpadCat

Originally Posted by SpadCat2000

Ordered a 342W motor and 50A ESC tonight. If my Pat AUW comes out at 32 oz that will be 171 w/lb, so that should give me reasonable performance.

SpadCat

Do you have the motor specs?

Here is the link. Cannot beat the price and for the most part have had good experience with Turnigy motors.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...r%5FMotor.html

SpadCat

Originally Posted by SpadCat2000

Here is the link. Cannot beat the price and for the most part have had good experience with Turnigy motors.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...r%5FMotor.html

SpadCat

Nice find SpadCat. Looks like it would be a perfect fit. And your right, you can't beat the price!

Ok guys. I burnt some midnight oil and finished the plan changes. I have added tiled plans to the first post. If you come across anything that needs to be changed, please let me know. I did not add servo locations, etc... I am leaving this up to the builder to decide what is best for there equipment. The motor mount is also up to the builder to measure and make since there are so many different types and sizes of motors that can be used on this plane. If you are using the Grayson Super Sonic V2, then the distance between the firewall and the motor mounting surface is 68mm. I hope you enjoy the plane as much as I do.!

Wow, that was fast...downloaded the plans and they look good and will put them together this weekend and maybe start cutting plywood.

Thanks for all the work!

SpadCat

Originally Posted by SpadCat2000

Wow, that was fast...downloaded the plans and they look good and will put them together this weekend and maybe start cutting plywood.

Thanks for all the work!

SpadCat

I guess now would be the time to tell you I already found something to change. I did not put the outlines of the doublers for the cowling. I'm sure you will find that out soon enough. It's not a biggy, but look for the change soon.

OK, no problem.

Thank You,

SpadCat

Hi JetCaptain,

A question regarding the KFM-4 airfoil. The Regal bipe uses a KFM-2 airfoil and at the trailing edge of the KFM, a 1/4" spar/spacer is used so it tilts the rear of the airfoil up off of the wing. Is that how the KFM-4 is built, or is it attached flat to the wing?

Thanks,

SpadCat

Originally Posted by SpadCat2000

Hi JetCaptain,

A question regarding the KFM-4 airfoil. The Regal bipe uses a KFM-2 airfoil and at the trailing edge of the KFM, a 1/4" spar/spacer is used so it tilts the rear of the airfoil up off of the wing. Is that how the KFM-4 is built, or is it attached flat to the wing?

Thanks,

SpadCat

SpadCat,

The KF strips are glued directly to the wing on both sides. There is a top and bottom KF in the plans. The top KF strips have a notch at the root of the wing to allow clearance for the fuselage.

One suggestion for your plans. You should make a non-tiled plan and post as well. It's helpful to plan a build as well as printing some parts on whole sheets of paper to make templates. Nice job on the plans.

I have read about the sharper stall characteristics of the KFM-4 and am wondering if it could be that the leading edge is sharpened instead of blunt (the KFM-2 on the Regal Bipe is actually squared off and it has awesome flight and stall charateristics, but it is a different type of aircraft).

Just a few days ago in another thread I was in discussion with the OP about his GWS Formosa ARF coming with sharp leading edges and the problems he had with his plane being very twitchy in the pitch axis. I wrote that in all the ones I have owned, I always kept the inboard leading edges sharp and rounded off the rest of the wing and never had problems with twitchiness in all flight regimes and unintentional snap rolls at low speed. He proceeded to do the same to his and (along with adding tape spanwise to help stiffen the wing) solved all the issues he was having.

I think I will modify the Pat's leading edge the way I think it should be done...what the heck, I could easily modify the wing back to stock if I need to.

SpadCat

JetCaptain, the bottom KFM pattern, says "Make 4". The top KFM pattern says "Make 2".


Also, I noticed you rounded the leading edge of the wing, which is what I would do. The KFM4 diagram shows a sharp leading edge, which I have seen before.

Thanks,

SpadCat

Originally Posted by SpadCat2000

JetCaptain, the bottom KFM pattern, says "Make 4". The top KFM pattern says "Make 2".


Also, I noticed you rounded the leading edge of the wing, which is what I would do. The KFM4 diagram shows a sharp leading edge, which I have seen before.

Thanks,

SpadCat

Good catch SpadCat. The "Make 4" was before I had to make changes to the top KF airfoil for the fuselage conflict. It should now read make 2 on both top and bottom airfoils. As far as leading edges, you are right. I just rounded the leading edge on the entire length. The picture was to show that there was no spacer on the trailing edge if the KF airfoil. This is my first try at a KF wing since mainly I have only been using flat plates. Any advice on these airfoils will be great learning.

I will make the changes to the plans this week and will include a non-tiled version. Thanks for sharing your input, it's very appreciated.

Chris