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Old Sep 07, 2012, 10:04 AM
Have Fun! Land, Sea or Air
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United States, TX, Austin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpadCat2000 View Post
Started the torque tube set up for the ailerons and the I am curious how much throw you are getting and if there are any binding issues due to the rods imbeded so far into the wing due to the TE sweep.

Got the tail cone and exhaust finished. Just need final filling and sanding.

Edit: OK, did a trial fit and there seems to be no problem. I don't remember seeing what you are recommending for control throws, except that the plane had a slow roll rate.

SpadCat
SpadCat,

I did some investigating regarding the slow roll and hear is what I found.

1. My current max throw using a Hextronix 9gram servo is 10mm. I disconnected the control horn of the servo and manually rotated it. I was able to get double the amount (20 mm) of throw this way. There was no binding, but it is is a little stiff due to the CA hinges I used.

2. It is apparent that the 9 gram servo does not have enough torque for the setup I am using. I am going to upgrade the aileron servo and this should provide the torque required to get to full throw.

I think once the new servo is in, and I can get max throw, the slow roll rate will be solved.

P.S. Make sure that each wire goes through the center of the aileron support rod, otherwise it will not work correctly.

Chris
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Old Sep 07, 2012, 09:18 PM
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United States, AZ, Lake Havasu City
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NOW you tell me! I had just glued in a 9 gram servo, and then checked in here shortly afterwards and after reading your post, quickly ran out to the shop and pulled out that servo. Fortunately, I used only a dab or two of white Gorilla glue and was able to pull it out without tearing up the mounting hole. I will put in an HS-81 in the HXT-900s place.

Thanks for the advice. This is one of the rare times I am using commercial aileron torque tubes and will have no problem with binding.

Found another boo boo. I installed a 1/4" ply plate for the wing hold down bolts across the rear of the fuse opening and found that it interferes with the torque tubes. Duh!...Should have known this, but it has been a long time since I have used torque tubes in favor of embedded wing servos. No problem to fix though.

No more work tonite...gonna take my girl out for some partying.

SpadCat
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 09:23 AM
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The HS-81 should do the job. Glad you were able to get the other one out in time!
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 01:03 AM
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Progress Report

Hi Jetcaptain,

Trailing edge wing hold down plate repositioned, completed install of torque tubes, completed and tested e-retract install with gear legs and wheels, wired and installed all electronics and tested servos and motor, added ply nose ring and with spinner in place, it looks like I lucked out with a nice close gap between spinner and nose ring, need to drill holes in spinner back plate and cut exhaust triangle hole in bottom of cowl, tested cg and it is within range with a 2200ma 3s lipo in same location as yours and there is room to move it fore or aft after final assembly of model. Set up a Hitec Optima transmitter and placed the Pat in model #7. Now this transmitter is full (model #8 location already used).

Did some filling and ready to install all control surfaces and connections to servos.

No flying due to weather, but a fun weekend anyway!

SpadCat
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 06:21 AM
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Cool beans SpadCat! Looks like you've been working OT on the PAT. Can't wait to hear how it handles on the ground with the retracts.

Not much fun for me this weekend since I have a head cold! Get those control surfaces on and let's see this baby take to the sky.

JC
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jetcaptain View Post
Spadcat,

I just use light weight spackling mixed with water. For paint, it was white latex thinned with windshield washer fluid. For sanding, I used coarse, med, and then fine paper. It's not perfect, but it came out pretty nice. But before I sanded, I trimmed off the extra with a razor first. If not, you will be sanding a long, long, time!
So you trimmed off the extra before the spackling dried or after?

SpadCat
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 07:02 AM
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SpadCat,

That comment is kind of reversed. The trimming mentioned was for rough cutting the foam to shape before sanding with coarse, med, and fine paper. The spackling and water mixture just requires sanding after it dries.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jetcaptain View Post
SpadCat,

That comment is kind of reversed. The trimming mentioned was for rough cutting the foam to shape before sanding with coarse, med, and fine paper. The spackling and water mixture just requires sanding after it dries.
OK, that makes sense and is what I do. However, that is also where I am having problems with filling foam. With balsa, you fill then sand most of it off, and repeat. With foam, if I sand all the spackle off, the foam becomes rough, and have a hard time smoothing it out even with 400 grit. I seem not to have problems with the blue foam, but Depron is hard for me to smooth out. So you leave a thin film of spackle?

Thanks,

SpadCat
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 03:02 PM
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Lon,

Yes, sometimes you have to leave a thin film of spackle to keep it smooth. You might try coating with WBPU then sanding, then final filling with watered down spackling.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Omaha Nebraska
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You can find some Baby powder that says it is Talc powder (NOT Corn Starch), the Talc is what was in the old Balsa Filler in the Dope and Tissue days. Mix it with Polycrylic by Minwax, coat, let dry. Sand with 400 grit to level it out, a very nice finish will result. However if you do sand all the way down to the depron, you will see some roughness as the depron does not have enough "pores' to reallly lock onto your filler coat. Wven just plain old Poly is a great final coat to prep for painting.
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 10:08 PM
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OK, I am starting to get the picture. Earlier I read to use Durhams and mix it with spackle and since I had those items on hand, I mixed together, thinned down and painted in on. Next will sand with 400 and see what that does. Should I still use the Minwax/talcum powder next?

Thanks!

Lon
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpadCat2000 View Post
OK, I am starting to get the picture. Earlier I read to use Durhams and mix it with spackle and since I had those items on hand, I mixed together, thinned down and painted in on. Next will sand with 400 and see what that does. Should I still use the Minwax/talcum powder next?

Thanks!

Lon
I think Poly and Talc is an alternative to thinned spackling. After sanding the spackle, just coat it with some Poly then paint.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 09:44 PM
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Found More UHU

I was able to score three tubes of UHU! I just had to go to South Korea on a business trip to get it. Larger tubes at a pretty good price. This should last me awhile.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 04:58 AM
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Your's plan is great but why i can't find cg on this plan .can you help me please!!!!!!!!
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 05:49 AM
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Baseman's Avatar
Japan (Military)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetcaptain View Post
I was able to score three tubes of UHU! I just had to go to South Korea on a business trip to get it. Larger tubes at a pretty good price. This should last me awhile.

I am in Japan, and often go to South Korea for business. That is where I get mine!
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