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Old May 29, 2012, 10:12 PM
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KenS999's Avatar
United States, IL, Huntley
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Help!
How Are Those Red Insulating Protectors (NitroPlanes) Installed Over 4mm Gold Conn?

Hi,

How do those RED insulating protectors for the 4mm gold connectors (sometimes found on NitroPlanes lipos and ESCs) get installed? Do you pull the 4mm soldered gold connector thru it OR push the soldered 4mm gold connector thru it in order to lock it in?

Thanks,
Ken
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Old May 29, 2012, 10:44 PM
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The red ones that I have used require that the wire be slid through the housing, solder on connector, pull wire and connector into housing to lock.

I'm talking about this type.

Mark
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Old May 29, 2012, 10:53 PM
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Yep, those are the ones, thanks for the help. I tried pulling them thru, maybe too heavy of a gauge wire combined with a bit of solder overflow on the gold connector wouldnt allow them to seat/lock.

-Ken.
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Old May 29, 2012, 10:57 PM
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United States, OH, Youngstown
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Instead of pulling... insert a spare pin or socket as a spacer, push the newly soldered connector back into the housing until you feel a sharp "click". Depending on the temp of the plastic, this can take from 5 to 20 lbs of force.

Pushing from the back could damage the wires, as well as trying to pull them into the connector.

This works for me:
Pass both wires thru housing, double checking small or large sides mate up. Use small torch to heat connectors, hold wire and add solder. (3 hands makes this so much easier). Be very careful not to get excess solder in the locking groove outside the pins. It can be removed with an x-acto saw or file if needed.

I suppose you could use a drop of soap or similar but if the soldering is perfect and connector still warm, they pop right in. After 30 you'll be a pro

Double check all your polarity.
Check it again.

Hope this helps.
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Old May 29, 2012, 11:02 PM
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It does, and Thank You.

-Ken.
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Old May 30, 2012, 10:48 AM
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+1 on the small torch. I use a small butane torch because it's just too hard to get connector plus 12 awg wire hot enough. Flux also helps quite a bit. Solder on the outside quickly makes it difficult to get in. I've removed some solder with the dremel on a few occasions.

I'll often us a small screwdriver to push the female bullet in and the tip of a needle nose pliers to push the male bullet in. Catch is finding a sharp table edge to support the connector while you push.

Fyi here's the torch I use, it comes with a blowtorch tip you can put on:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062753

Also handy for soldering where there's no power.
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Old May 30, 2012, 12:15 PM
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Thanks for the helpful replies everyone. Mission accomplished. I normally lock one soldering iron in an vertical position using a small vice. I set the female bullet or male inside a female right ontop of a conical soldering tip and let it heat up. I fill the base part way with solder and let it liquify. Then I stick the pretinned lead in there and let it all heat abit. I remove the bullet off the iron tip with long nose pliers while holding the lead in place with the other hand. In this case I used a slightly smaller gauge wire, I believe the original gauge was abit too large.

Thanks,
Ken
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Old May 30, 2012, 01:48 PM
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Hum, rather curious approach Ken. Never really think to clamp down the soldering iron.
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Old May 30, 2012, 02:19 PM
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Sorry for being late to the thread.

You thread the wire though the plastic housing, then solder the connector on. Then pull and push it back through until it snaps into place. I use another couple of damaged connectors to help me push them into place.

I like to use a big Weller Sp120 type of soldering iron. http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP120-W.../dp/B00002NB9K
It uses huge tips that hold the heat really well for the big wires in the connectors. The stained glass fabricators use this type of soldering iron a lot too.





Now then do not do both connector pins like this on a battery pack at the same time, as it can be exceedingly exciting if the pins accidentally short out. Put each connector pin on one at a time and be careful.
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