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Old May 30, 2012, 01:42 PM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
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Originally Posted by krikkens View Post
what type of paint is it ? i looked at their website but can't find it.

does it require a air-feed mask and special clothing to work with it ? i just got a simple mask and airvent...

-kristof-
It's this stuff.

Here is the MSDS for the clear-coat.


According to the MSDS a properly fitting mask with the correct organic/particulate filter is suitable. No fresh-air set-up is required.
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Old May 30, 2012, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by wyowindworks View Post
It's this stuff.

Here is the MSDS for the clear-coat.


According to the MSDS a properly fitting mask with the correct organic/particulate filter is suitable. No fresh-air set-up is required.
thanks, couldn't find the msds....
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 11:09 PM
tpczx6
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USA, CA, Fremont
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great info
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Last edited by tpczx6; Jul 18, 2012 at 11:02 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2012, 02:47 AM
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ron gijzen's Avatar
Liempde, Netherlands
Joined Jul 2007
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Originally Posted by wyowindworks View Post
Almost any spray can lacquer will work. The key is spraying the first coat very lightly, let it set (doesn't take long), then shooting a slightly heavier coat, let it set (doesn't take long), then a heavier coat. If you use a heavy coat right off the bat it will fish-eye.

The problem with rattle cans is that it's harder to control the light mist coats. With a gun you can set the stop on the product release needle so very little product is released from the gun. Then the next coat you can open the stop a little further and so on.

Adam
I recently followed a 3-day composite workshop with a european commercial model builder. He recommended the 2K PU "In Mould" paint of Breddermann.
This paint, as opposed to many ' car' paints, has no silicones that migrate to the surface during curing, so it can be left in the mold a long time before the lay-up.

My question is about the fish-eying with a heavy coat: does applying a light mist, wait a few minutes, than another etc etc still work with a 2K paint? I mean, the cure time is the same for all the layers and started when the paint was mixed. It seems pointless to wait for a layer to 'dry' since there is no solvent to evaporate? Needless to say I got fish-eyes with my first attempt spraying 2K
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Old Jul 13, 2012, 09:36 AM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
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Originally Posted by ron gijzen View Post
My question is about the fish-eying with a heavy coat: does applying a light mist, wait a few minutes, than another etc etc still work with a 2K paint? I mean, the cure time is the same for all the layers and started when the paint was mixed. It seems pointless to wait for a layer to 'dry' since there is no solvent to evaporate? Needless to say I got fish-eyes with my first attempt spraying 2K
2K paints still have solvent carriers that need to evaporate. Even the high performance high solids polyurethane 2Ks are only about 40% solids. This means that 60% of the solutions needs to flash off. This is why manufacturers want you to wait between coats when spraying 2K. You want the solvent from each coat to flash off before the next coat is applied otherwise you risk entrapping the solvents causing the paint to never cure properly. Even epoxy paints are not 100 percent solids.

Spraying 2K is more problematic than single components. I use a high velocity paint and a heat box to force cure the mist coats. Some people will also further/over reduce the paint as well.
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Old Jul 13, 2012, 10:43 AM
One Idiot is plenty...
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United States, OR, Portland
Joined Jun 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ron gijzen View Post
I recently followed a 3-day composite workshop with a european commercial model builder.
(
Ron.
What he was using for mold release ?
Thanx.
Yuri.
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Old Jul 13, 2012, 04:07 PM
Meek A Mouse
Deutschland, BW, Stuttgart
Joined Aug 2004
114 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ron gijzen View Post
I recently followed a 3-day composite workshop with a european commercial model builder. He recommended the 2K PU "In Mould" paint of Breddermann.
To disclose a secret: this is a regular 2K polyurethane paint, used in a different mixing ratio. The latter enables a good bond to epoxy, even some days later

Thatīs all!

I have to admit that this system is working quite well, though


Quote:
Originally Posted by ron gijzen View Post
This paint, as opposed to many ' car' paints, has no silicones that migrate to the surface during curing, so it can be left in the mold a long time before the lay-up.
I really donīt think that regular car paints contain any silicone. This must be a myth or just ignorance

W 70 is recommend as release agent
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Old Jul 13, 2012, 05:44 PM
One Idiot is plenty...
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United States, OR, Portland
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Please give us more information on W 70 mold release.I could not "Google" it.
Thanx.
Yuri
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Old Jul 13, 2012, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Dbox View Post
Please give us more information on W 70 mold release.I could not "Google" it.
Thanx.
Yuri
hi i think he refers to norpol w70

-kristof-
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 09:06 AM
Meek A Mouse
Deutschland, BW, Stuttgart
Joined Aug 2004
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Originally Posted by krikkens View Post
hi i think he refers to norpol w70
There are different names and distributors for it, but just one manufacturer: http://www.oskars.biz/de/index.html

M-700 is the original name
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Last edited by gideon; Jul 14, 2012 at 09:15 AM.
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