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Old May 27, 2012, 05:17 PM
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BTW, and decent 1K clear for a spray gun is Dupli-color Paint Shop. It's an old school auto lacquer. It sprays on Frekote very well, no mixing required, the downside is its low solvent resistance.

Quote:
adam, i use spray can clear coat now but the main reason i wan't to move away from it is tha fact it ain't waterproof , water seems to go thru this...
I would suspect that the problem isn't the clear-coat but the pinholes in the light layups. Clear-coat will span the pinholes (very common at weave intersections) and then break with handling. The water will go right through the pinholes. If you can eliminate the pinholes at weave intersections then just the resin should make the wing waterproof since epoxy resin is waterproof. If water is getting through the layup then pinholes are prevalent. You would have to apply a very thick application of clearcoat (which is heavy) to span the pinholes and not break with handling.
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Old May 28, 2012, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyowindworks View Post
BTW, and decent 1K clear for a spray gun is Dupli-color Paint Shop. It's an old school auto lacquer. It sprays on Frekote very well, no mixing required, the downside is its low solvent resistance.



I would suspect that the problem isn't the clear-coat but the pinholes in the light layups. Clear-coat will span the pinholes (very common at weave intersections) and then break with handling. The water will go right through the pinholes. If you can eliminate the pinholes at weave intersections then just the resin should make the wing waterproof since epoxy resin is waterproof. If water is getting through the layup then pinholes are prevalent. You would have to apply a very thick application of clearcoat (which is heavy) to span the pinholes and not break with handling.

adam, (or someone else)

any experience with partall#2 wax and 2k clear?

i have build a wing with this wax (not using pva) and spray can clear , it released very well .the surface was a bit dull untill i wiped of the wax , didn't tought about it since i alway's used pva before ..

thanks

-kristof-
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Old May 28, 2012, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krikkens View Post
adam, (or someone else)

any experience with partall#2 wax and 2k clear?
I have never tried it.
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Old May 28, 2012, 04:49 PM
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adam,

the safety sheet say's wear gloves , i wear nitril gloves , are they appropriate?

thanks

-kristof-
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Old May 28, 2012, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krikkens View Post
adam,

the safety sheet say's wear gloves , i wear nitril gloves , are they appropriate?

thanks

-kristof-
What is the product?

Tom linked to list of common chemicals and appropriate gloves in an earlier post. Nitril, isn't best for everything. Vinyl is my mainstay unless I know it's unable to block something. I do think that most recommend using Nitril when working with urethane based 2-pack paints.

The danger is breathing isocyanate. It can do bad things to you like cause asthma. Look at the MSDS for the hardener. If it contains iso's then you need to use caution. Iso's are considered bad bad stuff which is why they recommend a fresh air unit which pumps fresh air into the mask. The positive pressure makes it very difficult for the Iso's to get in there....unless the air pump is in the vicinity of the Iso's. Fortunately, Iso's are not know to cause cancer.

Here is a nice "Myth" site about using 2-pack paints that contain Iso's - Myths
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Old May 28, 2012, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyowindworks View Post
What is the product?

Tom linked to list of common chemicals and appropriate gloves in an earlier post. Nitril, isn't best for everything. Vinyl is my mainstay unless I know it's unable to block something. I do think that most recommend using Nitril when working with urethane based 2-pack paints.

The danger is breathing isocyanate. It can do bad things to you like cause asthma. Look at the MSDS for the hardener. If it contains iso's then you need to use caution. Iso's are considered bad bad stuff which is why they recommend a fresh air unit which pumps fresh air into the mask. The positive pressure makes it very difficult for the Iso's to get in there....unless the air pump is in the vicinity of the Iso's. Fortunately, Iso's are not know to cause cancer.

Here is a nice "Myth" site about using 2-pack paints that contain Iso's - Myths
adam,

i was asking about the partall #2 actually ...

but thanks for the answer i have used a 2k with isocyanate , far to aggressive stuff , it blended with the fully cured pva coat ...

i will try the 1k like the dupli color you suggested , if i can find something similar over here (europe)

-kristof-
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Old May 28, 2012, 06:27 PM
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Ahhhh....for the wax. Honestly, I don't wear gloves, right or wrong, when applying Part-all Paste #2. I sure I'm supposed to but just never have.
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Old May 28, 2012, 07:09 PM
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I tried the Rustolum brand clear, light mist then progressively heavy coats, 3 total.Then 3 color.
Results were, the clear was dull and a patch about 2X3"stuck to the mold and pulled loose from the color. It chiped out of the mold easily with my finger nail however.
I sprayed outdoors in the sun mold was 85 degrees, warmed the can up in a bucket of hot tap water for 10 minutes.
Humidy was 46%.

Waited 10 minutes between coats and overnight to pull part after 5 hours in sun at 85 degrees. that should not be toohot for 770NC.
Any Idears???

I HATE PAINTING!!!!!
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Old May 28, 2012, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIM CALDWELL A View Post
I tried the Rustolum brand clear, light mist then progressively heavy coats, 3 total.Then 3 color.
Results were, the clear was dull and a patch about 2X3"stuck to the mold and pulled loose from the color. It chiped out of the mold easily with my finger nail however.
I sprayed outdoors in the sun mold was 85 degrees, warmed the can up in a bucket of hot tap water for 10 minutes.
Humidy was 46%.

Waited 10 minutes between coats and overnight to pull part after 5 hours in sun at 85 degrees. that should not be toohot for 770NC.
Any Idears???

I HATE PAINTING!!!!!
Does the laminating resin you are using release well? If the resin doesn't release well then the clear-coat typically will not block the sticking....even 2k.
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Old May 29, 2012, 09:42 AM
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US comp. resin, no problems with sticking w/o the paint.
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Old May 29, 2012, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIM CALDWELL A View Post
US comp. resin, no problems with sticking w/o the paint.
Interesting. You might want to try a different clear like Dupli-color. I can get them from O'Reilly auto parts.
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Old May 30, 2012, 07:26 AM
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Thanks, I will try Dupli-Color.
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Old May 30, 2012, 11:53 AM
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hi adam,

what type of clear is the dupli color?

i wen't to a local airbrush shop and he recomended acrylic 1k clear , i have read things about urethane and poly urethane clears which one is prefered?

the acrylic clear could also be diluted with water according the guy , is it true?



got some small bottles of "fancy " paint , pearlized stuff , did some test with it but it seems to disolve the pva coating (it was water based acrylic 1k paint...

i only could peal of the slightly painted area , there was some liquid pva left in the mold on the hevely painted area , the paint was completely out .(at least it looks like liquid pva , i will check if and how it cures.

thanks



-kristof-
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Old May 30, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Kristof - The sprayable 1K Dupli-color clear that I use the Paint Shop line which is a basic lacquer.

Anything that is water based will dissolve the PVA. I've heard of some people using a water-based paint on PVA by doing multiple really light coats. I've never tried it though.

I don't have much experience with acrylics so I can't help much in that respect.

I like urethane and polyurethane based clears. The ones that I use are all 2-pack paints.

The only single stage sprayable clear that I have much experience with is the Dupli-color Paint Shop. For in mold work is very easy to use. The only downside is that it has poor solvent resistance.
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Old May 30, 2012, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyowindworks View Post
Kristof - The sprayable 1K Dupli-color clear that I use the Paint Shop line which is a basic lacquer.

Anything that is water based will dissolve the PVA. I've heard of some people using a water-based paint on PVA by doing multiple really light coats. I've never tried it though.

I don't have much experience with acrylics so I can't help much in that respect.

I like urethane and polyurethane based clears. The ones that I use are all 2-pack paints.

The only single stage sprayable clear that I have much experience with is the Dupli-color Paint Shop. For in mold work is very easy to use. The only downside is that it has poor solvent resistance.
what type of paint is it ? i looked at their website but can't find it.

does it require a air-feed mask and special clothing to work with it ? i just got a simple mask and airvent...

-kristof-
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