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Old Sep 15, 2012, 12:31 PM
Mosquito 6
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stonecutter View Post
My take on lifting capacity of two 'tied' crafts, one craft is in effect trying to lift the other and vice versa, wasting power and energy. The crafts working independently (one at each end of long beam, for example) would do better lifting a heavy object. Not arguing, just thinking outload, I'm full of BS (aka, coffee) sometimes.
I vaguely recall that the Russians built a giant Heavy Lifter Quad some decades back .. it flew, but without the sophisticated electronics we take for granted today, control was an issue. I think it is Boeing or Northrop that has a couple of Quads on the drawing board .. both manned and also robotic .. for marines or special forces. I saw a demo I think on youtube .. I don't have a link.

Maybe you could do a lift test with your intact v929, and compare your results with @Brandigan's results .. I am really at a loss to understand such a wide disparity in net lift statistics. Thanks for your interest
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 10:20 AM
Ain't crashing often anymore
mikefromgermany's Avatar
Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
3,186 Posts
Creepy 928

Folks, meet my new V928:
Aerodynamic canopy made of clear acrylic tear drop (from a flower-shop 50ct) painted luminescend yellow from the inside and enlighted with a (quite strong - never handle without proper goggles or your retina will be burned) UV-LED inside.
Legmode done in lumo-yellow 3mm nylon thread (from a gas-powered string trimmer)

Creepy at night, excellent to be seen from dusk till dawn

Daylight:


Night(mare)mode:


-mike-
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 11:06 AM
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United States, NY, Binghamton
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I won't lie, if I saw that flying over my head I might shoot it down. I can imagine that is a bit creepy looking flying around.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 11:18 AM
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Belgium
Joined Dec 2011
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I like it!
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 01:27 PM
Team WarpSquad
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
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I think that photo makes it look brighter than it really is.

I experimented with 395nm 5mm UV LED.

More expensive 365nm 5mm UV LED that is suppose to be in more in the ultraviolet spectrum.

Both has beam that was very narrow, so it created a spot under the canopy like you see in the photo above.

I also used 0603 SMD UV LED and that had a wide beam angle so the whole canopy was evenly lit, however it was very dim.

All said, between all the UV LED I tested, they were much too dim for use. I put a 1306(?) white LED SMD and the whole canopy glowed much, much brighter than the any of the UV LED. And had the nice wide angle.

All test were running the LED at it's 20ma rated output. Though I did test them staight to a 1s LiPo at 4.2v and it wasn't much improved compared to the single white LED.

A bit disappointing from my test.

I was really hoping to uplight fluorescent painted props for a really nice effect.

If you are flying in a blacklight lit room...it is really cool. The long blacklightblue fluorescent puts out much more UV light and really glows the fluorescent paint.
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Last edited by Daryoon; Sep 16, 2012 at 03:08 PM. Reason: Edit LED current unit
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 02:04 PM
Flying mostly micro's
BlueHavoc's Avatar
United States, WV, Vienna
Joined Mar 2007
606 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefromgermany View Post
Folks, meet my new V928:
Aerodynamic canopy made of clear acrylic tear drop (from a flower-shop 50ct) painted luminescend yellow from the inside and enlighted with a (quite strong - never handle without proper goggles or your retina will be burned) UV-LED inside.
Legmode done in lumo-yellow 3mm nylon thread (from a gas-powered string trimmer)

Creepy at night, excellent to be seen from dusk till dawn

Daylight:


Night(mare)mode:


-mike-
Great work! Great idea!
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 02:14 PM
Ain't crashing often anymore
mikefromgermany's Avatar
Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
3,186 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
I think that photo makes it look brighter than it really is.

I experimented with 395nm 5mm UV LED.

More expensive 365nm 5mm UV LED that is suppose to be in more in the ultraviolet spectrum.

Both has beam that was very narrow, so it created a spot under the canopy like you see in the photo above.

I also used 0603 SMD UV LED and that had a wide beam angle so the whole canopy was evenly lit, however it was very dim.

All said, between all the UV LED I tested, they were much too dim for use. I put a 1306(?) white LED SMD and the whole canopy glowed much, much brighter than the any of the UV LED. And had the nice wide angle.

All test were running the LED at it's 20mw rated output. Though I did test them staight to a 1s LiPo at 4.2v and it wasn't much improved compared to the single white LED.

A bit disappointing from my test.

I was really hoping to uplight fluorescent painted props for a really nice effect.

If you are flying in a blacklight lit room...it is really cool. The long blacklightblue fluorescent puts out much more UV light and really glows the fluorescent paint.
Nope, its even brighter than on picture.
I grinded the LED down and matted it for a better angle - still not perfect.
I used one 400-410nm LED with 68mW at 30mA and 3.4V
Specs allow even 200mW pulsed.....
V929 with UV-Light (0 min 13 sec)

Video shows it lit by a 60 W Bulb / regular, not too bright room light
-mike-
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Last edited by mikefromgermany; Sep 16, 2012 at 02:47 PM. Reason: wrong voltage
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 03:07 PM
Team WarpSquad
Daryoon's Avatar
San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
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Woah. that's a serious LED. Thanks for sharing.

I need to go back and edit my post btw. I got the units wrong...sound be 20ma not 20mw.

Can you link me to the LED you use and the technique you used to grind it down?

Thanks!!!

p.s. Edit your YouTube title. It should be v929 not v928. It'll make it easier for people to find your video.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 03:33 PM
Ain't crashing often anymore
mikefromgermany's Avatar
Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
Woah. that's a serious LED. Thanks for sharing.

I need to go back and edit my post btw. I got the units wrong...sound be 20ma not 20mw.

Can you link me to the LED you use and the technique you used to grind it down?

Thanks!!!

p.s. Edit your YouTube title. It should be v929 not v928. It'll make it easier for people to find your video.
Here you are:
I've bought these LEDS :
http://www.ebay.de/itm/280699087093
German Ebay, so if you need help in translation just PM.
These LEDs are really dangerous! Especially before grinding them. A direct beam WILL give your retina a serious sunburn! So please wear filtered goggles while testing.
Changed youtube-title, thanks!
-mike-
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 08:38 PM
KDS450QS(ZYX4),V977,CX-20
FyreSG's Avatar
United States, CA, Monterey
Joined Apr 2012
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For fluorescent effect in marina aquaria, I use actinic LEDs (420nm). They are not UV, which may harm the livestock. Actinic LEDs makes my corals, anemones and fish glow. But I'm not sure if it'll be the same for quads.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 10:55 PM
Field of Dreams Flyer
Mikemynameis's Avatar
San Pedro,Ca
Joined Sep 2004
8,663 Posts
Value Hobby in the US sells them know as well as the tiny one
http://www.valuehobby.com/wl-v929-be...opter-rtf.html
http://www.valuehobby.com/udi-u816-4...opter-rtf.html
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 03:43 AM
Ain't crashing often anymore
mikefromgermany's Avatar
Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FyreSG View Post
For fluorescent effect in marina aquaria, I use actinic LEDs (420nm). They are not UV, which may harm the livestock. Actinic LEDs makes my corals, anemones and fish glow. But I'm not sure if it'll be the same for quads.
JESUS CHRIST!
Saw just the specs of your 420nm LED....

420nm Actinic Violet / Super Actinic 3W LED
Wavelength: 418-420nm
Forward voltage: 3.8V @700mA
Efficiency: 10 lm/w
Max. current: 700mA
Beam angle: 120-140 degree
Operational temperature: -20C ~ +70C

2.66 Watts more drain will definitely shorten the flight time... but i could imagine the picture flying the 929 at nighttime with sunglasses on.....
-mike-
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 04:13 AM
Ain't crashing often anymore
mikefromgermany's Avatar
Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
3,186 Posts
excidating lumo-colours

Daryoon, I know your mistake:

The lumo-colours use certain materials to get the glowing effect and each of them has his own ideal excidating wavelength.
These are (not complete list):

Blue: 7-Amino-4-methylcoumarin (AMC) Excidation/Emission = 360/429 nm
Green: FITC Excidation/Emission = 506/529 nm
Green: Acridin Orange: Excidation/Emission = 510/522 nm
Orange: Ethidiumbromide: Excidation/Emission = 302or505/602 nm
Orange: Rhodamin B: Excidation/Emission = 560/584 nm
Red: Nile Blue A: Excidation/Emission= 636/686 nm)

These expensive 395nm and 365nm LEDs you have tested don't have the right wavelength peak to activate the lumo-particles of these paints (but the blue fluorescend AMC).
If you are using the fluoro-yellow the best wavelenght according to the list would be 500-520nm with peak at 505
e.g. http://www.ebay.de/itm/1000PCS-5mm-C...item2a22802bda
Hope I could help
-mike-
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 04:46 AM
KDS450QS(ZYX4),V977,CX-20
FyreSG's Avatar
United States, CA, Monterey
Joined Apr 2012
4,551 Posts
The high wattage actinic LEDs may be used for lighting fish tanks, which requires high power to penetrate to the corals at the bottom of the tank. Actinic LEDs can be used to simulate moonlight which corals and livestock require. For quads, maybe tiny SMD LEDs are sufficient? I saw some 420nm SMD LEDs that are low in power output.

I feel that the 420nm LEDs are better because they support fluorescence and the "blue" light actually looks cool. The UV ones look violet and appear darker / fainter.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 09:41 AM
Team WarpSquad
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
6,097 Posts
Thanks Mike. I'll look into that.

I did a blog post on the paint I was gonna use. It's made to stick to lexan so that it doesn't easily chip off during crashes. I assume they don't have the lumo particles that your paint contain?

http://www.hacksmods.com/2012/08/night-flying-colors/

I tested under a blacklight bulb and they florescent very nicely. The yellow-green especially. However, under the LED that I used, they florescent as well, but just not bright enough for practical use. I thought the closer I got to true ultraviolet wavelenght, the better.

Thanks for point out other factors and variables to consider.
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