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Old May 22, 2012, 08:56 AM
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Australia, VIC, Bushy Park
Joined May 2012
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help os 40

hi guys am new to this hobbie and have just got a os 40 engine from a mate of mine the question is the engine is new only started once and then it was not started for approx 2 years and the residue oil has gone hard The motor wont turn over at all was wondering what i can do to free it up (soak in wd40)any help would be great Thank-you very much DAVID
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Old May 22, 2012, 06:34 PM
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Joined Jun 2011
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Heat it with a heat gun.
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Old May 22, 2012, 07:58 PM
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Joined Mar 2012
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Yep, heat gun it gently. Two years isn't so long that the residue has gotten rock hard yet.
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Old May 22, 2012, 08:36 PM
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Joined May 2012
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Is it possible to use the oven? If so, what temp? Just thinking that sudsy may not have a heat gun (yet). I've heard from Paul of rc-bearings that you never want to heat the metal above 358 F as it will start rearranging the metal.
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Old May 22, 2012, 09:32 PM
Transplant in 1996
United States, NE, Scribner
Joined Aug 2011
195 Posts
Myself, all my engines get boiled in the crockpot with antifreeze. Dirty in and 2 days later, they all look brand new on the 16 or 17 that I've done so far.
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Old May 23, 2012, 05:23 AM
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United States, CA, Norco
Joined Feb 2007
629 Posts
Over temp of 200 degrees for 20 minutes is what I have used in the past. Lately it's just easy to use a hair dryer or a heat gun for shrinking monocoat. It it's still froze up after heating it try soaking the engine in glow fuel for a day the try the heat again before trying the crockpot and antifreeze method.

I tried the crockpot antifreeze methode once and it corroded (oxidized) the plating off the the liner only where the piston was touching the liner. I would not recommend this method ot free up an engine.I do think the antfreeze crockpot methode works great for the burnt on castor or oil residues just not for freeing up a lock up engine.

If the engine is already disassembled no problem, In my case I think the antifreeze used had water in it. Antifreeze also likes to suck moisture from the surrounding air and I think this combination of leftover synfuel mixture which can be acidic and the water oxidized the plating right off the liner. Not a good result as the plated liner was ruined.

Heat then fuel or heat then WD40 fuel works best. I try not to turn the engine over, just loose enough to take it apart. That much gunk could be dirt from being buried during a crash. Point is use just enough heat. glow fuel, or wd40 to loosen it up to dismantal it to make sure your not grinding the dirt into the bearing surfaces or scratching up the liner.
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Last edited by Roguedog; May 23, 2012 at 05:34 AM.
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Old May 23, 2012, 05:55 AM
I bail out, anywhere, anytime
Taurus Flyer's Avatar
The Netherlands, OV, Almelo
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roguedog View Post
Over temp of 200 degrees for 20 minutes is what I have used in the past. Lately it's just easy to use a hair dryer or a heat gun for shrinking monocoat. It it's still froze up after heating it try soaking the engine in glow fuel for a day the try the heat again before trying the crockpot and antifreeze method.

I tried the crockpot antifreeze methode once and it corroded (oxidized) the plating off the the liner only where the piston was touching the liner. I would not recommend this method ot free up an engine.I do think the antfreeze crockpot methode works great for the burnt on castor or oil residues just not for freeing up a lock up engine.

If the engine is already disassembled no problem, In my case I think the antifreeze used had water in it. Antifreeze also likes to suck moisture from the surrounding air and I think this combination of leftover synfuel mixture which can be acidic and the water oxidized the plating right off the liner. Not a good result as the plated liner was ruined.

Heat then fuel or heat then WD40 fuel works best. I try not to turn the engine over, just loose enough to take it apart. That much gunk could be dirt from being buried during a crash. Point is use just enough heat. glow fuel, or wd40 to loosen it up to dismantal it to make sure your not grinding the dirt into the bearing surfaces or scratching up the liner.

Roguedog,
We European members do know the scale of you and, I also think you know our scale. Normally no probem but.
This is an environment in which Gary Cee is active and you can be attacked for not mentioning the scale, see this post for example:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=110

That is the reason I write this post, please add the scale near the degrees values.


Thanks Cees
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Old May 23, 2012, 06:25 AM
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United States, MI, Marysville
Joined Apr 2010
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TF Why are you still flaming .

Please do read . However, read the posts leading up to the one listed .
You will find that TF was chided for not mentioning the scale AFTER he himself had bashed another member for giving a 200 degree reference without mentioning the scale . When TF was caught , commiting the same, simple error he tried to twist out of it. I would not have even mentioned it otherwise . It seems TF likes to dish it out but certainly can't handle receiving correction .


This is the TF post that precipitated a reminder to TF.

:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taurus Flyer View Post
Barry I am impressed, 200 degrees? Wow! Fahrenheit or Celcius?

Can you show me this value in some kind of specification?
I know for example the flaspoint of full synthetic oil can be around 500 F (260 C)
(I saw you have zero attachments so it will be difficult, but if you cannot show it then I assume the rest of your post will be a fairytale too !)



TF
Sorry that TF made this posting as well as too many others necessary .
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Old May 23, 2012, 06:35 PM
I am 5' 8" the Taube is 7' 4"
Clancy Arnold's Avatar
USA, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Jan 2008
627 Posts
David
I have a little different procedure to free up a frozen engine.

1. Remove the back plate and observe what moves and what does not move when the prop is moved any amount. Go easy on the amount of pressure you apply to the prop so that you do not break anything.

2. If the crankshaft moved at all then hold the engine with the cylinder pointed down in step 3. If the Crankshaft did not move at all then hold the engine pointed down in step 3.

3. Pour some Red ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) into the rear of the engine and heat the inside of the engine with a heat gun. If you do not have a heat gun then place in a 200 degree F Oven for 15 to 20 minutes.

4. Using heat proof gloves try again to turn the prop using very little pressure.

5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 above until free enough to allow disassembly of the engine. Note: When the crankshaft is freed up the piston or wrist pin may still be frozen.

6. After disassembly is completed and the engine is ready for reassembly coat all parts with ATF before installing them.

This has revived engines for me including an OS 40FP.

The problem of just using heat is that when it cools off it probably is again locked up. The heat will allow the ATF to enter into places and keep them freed up.
Clancy
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Last edited by Clancy Arnold; May 23, 2012 at 06:55 PM.
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