Originally Posted by Ramnes

kernel32
Thats great man. Can you please take a lot of pictures of all part of the Mini650 and tell us about your setup with Wokong, gimbal, Tx/Rx, motors, ESC, batteries and any mods since the release of V2?

I see that you have placed your ESC's under the motors, and pushed them about 5cm(2") towards the frame. Is there a reason for that other than to little space on the frame?


J

Figure.

Originally Posted by alek3d

Anyone interested to trade Mini650 for my RM650 carbon fiber frame with original xAircraft bug shell and carbon fiber battery tray (not included in RM650) and spare arm? (just bare frame, not electronics or props) I can also add CF cam gimbal for extra $50.

If you own Mini650 and interested in trade, please drop me a message. I would like to experiment and need a base frame.

Thanks!

alek3d
For a week ago i would have traded it for almost anything. Now after doing some mods to actually getting a stiffer frame, and seeing that kernel32 actually flies this thing and have provided some picts i wouldnt trade it for anything(yet).

I just hope that kernel32 could shoot some more picts and videos of his Mini650 and have others coming with mods so the frame can evolve and become a good FPV platform.

J

Ok, no problem, that is just an offer, if you change your mind drop me a message.

I just wanted to save some time, because I'm going to sell my RM650 and buy something, maybe Foxtech new frame. For my hobby purposes Ecilop is still too expensive. I would go up to $300 max. for the bare frame.

Wow, there was actual wind in that video. No one seems to fly these multi's in more than 5 mph winds (which never exist here..), so it is nice to see moving grass, moving trees and still near perfect stability.

If this is replicable, I'll end up getting one of these.

Is not the frame credit, it has gps, so was loitering.

Hi all

I just test flew mine outside this afternoon.
It was rock solid and it even handled a little wind that was around.
It's looking very good and I'm just annoyed that the forecast for tomorrow and the next few days is not looking great.

So my next big challenge is setting the gimbal up properly .So for those who have gone before us; what words of wisdom can you share?
I've been playing around with it the last few days and I get a bounce on the springs happening.
I'm thinking that the supplied springs may be a little to tight. Because if the gimbal is properly balanced, then it should only take a little force to move it; that is, softer springs.
What do you all think?

P.S. I ended up hard mounting my camera to the gimbal and I've got no signs of vibration in the HD video at all. So my replacement soft mounts are working a treat.

Cheers,
Michael

Originally Posted by katipo

Hi all

I just test flew mine outside this afternoon.
It was rock solid and it even handled a little wind that was around.
It's looking very good and I'm just annoyed that the forecast for tomorrow and the next few days is not looking great.

So my next big challenge is setting the gimbal up properly .So for those who have gone before us; what words of wisdom can you share?
I've been playing around with it the last few days and I get a bounce on the springs happening.
I'm thinking that the supplied springs may be a little to tight. Because if the gimbal is properly balanced, then it should only take a little force to move it; that is, softer springs.
What do you all think?



P.S. I ended up hard mounting my camera to the gimbal and I've got no signs of vibration in the HD video at all. So my replacement soft mounts are working a treat.

Cheers,
Michael

Hi
Nice to hear of someone who made a normal flight with this frame.
The spring seems to tight on mine to, but i'm sure if we balance the gimbal like in this video(Ecilop)www.ecilop.tv and the "Video "Ecilop-1"(1,45 and 1,50 min), the bounce will go away.
I've been doing this for several hours today(it's a rainy day) and i've mananged to get my Crius MW SE to work with me(only gimbal). The next step is to balance the gimbal in horizontal and vertical direction. Correct me if i'm wrong.

Can you please share how you made your soft mounts.

EDIT:
Here are som more information on vibrations and swinging.
http://www.myresearch.lt/blog/onboar...iminatio-49723

J

Ok I think I know what I need to do to get my camera gimbal working without the bounce.

I was trying to use my Naza controller's gimbal control alone. But after looking at the Foxtech videos for their new frame the Glyder 600 as well as the ECILOP. I see that it looks like you have to also run gyros on the two axis of the gimbal arm, in combination with the Naza controller.

So the Naza controller handles the overall levelling and tilting of the arm, and then the gyros provide the quick fine response needed for the bounce elimination.

This is probably obvious to everyone else, but since there is so little documentation with the kit, I missed it.

So the next question is what gyros work the best. Do they need to be MEMS gyros or will the older Piezo gyros do?

Ramnes,
I'll see if I can find some time next week to describe how I moulded my softer silicon vibration mounts. Although it's a fairly simple process. It will take some explaining.

Cheers,
Michael

Originally Posted by katipo

Ok I think I know what I need to do to get my camera gimbal working without the bounce.

I was trying to use my Naza controller's gimbal control alone. But after looking at the Foxtech videos for their new frame the Glyder 600 as well as the ECILOP. I see that it looks like you have to also run gyros on the two axis of the gimbal arm, in combination with the Naza controller.

So the Naza controller handles the overall levelling and tilting of the arm, and then the gyros provide the quick fine response needed for the bounce elimination.

This is probably obvious to everyone else, but since there is so little documentation with the kit, I missed it.

So the next question is what gyros work the best. Do they need to be MEMS gyros or will the older Piezo gyros do?

Ramnes,
I'll see if I can find some time next week to describe how I moulded my softer silicon vibration mounts. Although it's a fairly simple process. It will take some explaining.

Cheers,
Michael

Gimbal control output:
Roll channel ----> Roll gyro -->Roll servo
Pitch channel ---->Pitch gyro-->Pitch servo
The gyro must work in the normal mode(or rate mode),does not work in the headlock mode..

Originally Posted by kernel32

Gimbal control output:
Roll channel ----> Roll gyro -->Roll servo
Pitch channel ---->Pitch gyro-->Pitch servo
The gyro must work in the normal mode(or rate mode),does not work in the headlock mode..

Why you put between controller and servo the gyro?
What does it offer?
I haven't studied the ecilop so i haven't the slightest idea on that.
Thanks

Originally Posted by tigar

Why you put between controller and servo the gyro?
What does it offer?
I haven't studied the ecilop so i haven't the slightest idea on that.
Thanks

Wait a moment,I draw a picture.

Originally Posted by tigar

Why you put between controller and servo the gyro?
What does it offer?
I haven't studied the ecilop so i haven't the slightest idea on that.
Thanks

Originally Posted by kernel32

Gimbal control output:
Roll channel ----> Roll gyro -->Roll servo
Pitch channel ---->Pitch gyro-->Pitch servo
The gyro must work in the normal mode(or rate mode),does not work in the headlock mode..

kernel32

Yes I did realise that it should only be in rate mode and not heading hold as it's only there to stop the bouncing on the springs and any other slight sharp movements.

I guess my main question is, will a gyro like the hobbyking HK401 or GWS PG-03 do, or do I need to invest in a more expensive (and hopefully better quality) servo?

I've got some small mems gyros like the ASSAN GA250 etc. But like so many of these, you have to have a spare channel to set the gain/mode which makes them quite impractical for our use.

Cheers,
Michael

Originally Posted by katipo

kernel32

Yes I did realise that it should only be in rate mode and not heading hold as it's only there to stop the bouncing on the springs and any other slight sharp movements.

I guess my main question is, will a gyro like the hobbyking HK401 or GWS PG-03 do, or do I need to invest in a more expensive (and hopefully better quality) servo?

I've got some small mems gyros like the ASSAN GA250 etc. But like so many of these, you have to have a spare channel to set the gain/mode which makes them quite impractical for our use.

Cheers,
Michael

I use Tarot GY650 and 9257 servo.
In fact,your gyros can work well.
I use Y line to connect two gyros share one channel.

I'm going to film with a videocamera(Sony HDR CX570E/CX730) most of the time flying this hexa, but i need to modify/rebuild the cameraholder.

Does anyone have any good idea on how this can be done?

J