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Old Oct 04, 2012, 08:58 PM
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Wow! Ailerons are really effective. Great maneuverability. Faster than I thought it was going to be. But maybe the wide angle on that keychain camera is making it look faster than it is. Great to see it flying in the video!

The gym I fly indoors at is small. So I'm going to have to try to keep mine as light as possible.

I've sent for some real 2mm depron and a mustang motor and a tube of POR. With the laser printer, that ought to get me right on line with the program. Also got the 1.2 mm carbon, so ready to assemble the wings.

Will probably still try the 8mm HK motor on this first one, built with what was on hand.

But another better equipped model isn't going to be far behind....
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 06:54 PM
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Gladstone, NJ. USA
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Hi Guys: Very interesting method. Is the Duro adhesive repositionable or does the minimal amount sprayed make the tissue easily separated from the carrier paper..
Thanks,
Jon B. Shereshaw
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 08:58 PM
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Gulf Breeze, FL
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Is the Duro adhesive repositionable ...?
Jon,

I wouldn't call it repositionable. As you said, it's the light dusting that allows the tissue to be easily removed from the carrier paper - some tack will remain on the tissue, however.

Best advice I can offer is to do some testing to see how your adhesive grabs - both the temporary bond to the carrier paper and the permanent bond to the foam.

God luck if you try it, and please let me know the results.

Gene K
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by vtdiy View Post
Wow! Ailerons are really effective. Great maneuverability. Faster than I thought it was going to be. But maybe the wide angle on that keychain camera is making it look faster than it is. Great to see it flying in the video!

...
And he flys those beautiful airplanes near all them airplane magnets. Every time he goes past that sign my heart goes into my throat

... if I had one of them big ol' concrete ... things ... where I fly, it would be pock marked by a/c strikes.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 07:46 AM
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My 1250c printer arrived last evening, and I tried the Nieuport skin. I don't have Duro adhesive, it wasn't available at my local WalMart, but did have another brand, Scotch, labeled "re-positionable". I'd used it before with the inkjet printer and it was difficult to start a peel, but it was do-able.

Anyway dusted a very light coat and printed. But a piece of the tissue must have come off in the printer. Wasn't able to find it or remove it. It was just missing from the carrier. Had me worried for awhile. But printing on regular paper seemed to work well, so I'm not sure what to think. It's not in any of the paper jam locations.

I tried another print on tissue, and this time sprayed a little more adhesive on. Not a lot, just a little more than before. Pressed the tissue down -- got rid of wrinkles. Ran that through and it printed without tearing. But it was very difficult to start the peel, and also hard to remove from the backing. Kept starting tears and finally I gave up.

I had been able to remove the backing on the inkjet prints, with care, but I'm having more trouble with the laser. Maybe the glue is heat setting. Im not sure whether it is the glue or tissue or backing paper, or a setting in the printer -- there are settings for paper thickness, etc. Wondering, Gene, what settings you are using on the printer, if any?
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 08:11 AM
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Vtdiy,

I don't do what Gene does, although he's the King of tissue covering. What works for me is I just use clear tape along the carrier paper esp along the boarder of where the paper is pulled into the printer first. It's fast and woks for me just be sure none of the usable tissue is coverd by the tape.

Pete
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 09:34 AM
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thenks mtflyr, I'm suspecting the adhesive, Scotch.

I've got another "repositionable" type, Krylon Easy-Tack. Going to try that.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:06 AM
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Anyway dusted a very light coat and printed. But a piece of the tissue must have come off in the printer.
Sorry to hear it didn't go as well as it should have. First, about the lost piece of tissue. Unfortunately where I've lost mine (before I do the mounting as I do now) is around the fuser roller - which is a real challenge since you have to take the whole printer apart - something I don't want to do again!!!!

I think the critical step in mounting the tissue is applying the piece of clear tape across the top of the tissue/carrier (folded over to the back). Without it, you stand a chance of the tissue unraveling inside the printer - chances are "slim", but I no longer want to take the chance of omitting the tape (as some others have).

Second, as concerns Duro. Unfortunately, it's is no longer available, with the replacement being Loctite General Purpose available at Lowe's. I've tried just about every spray out there and this suits me best - and it's the most reasonably priced.

I suspect the fuser is "fusing" your particular adhesive to the carrier paper - just a light dusting using Loctite should be enough. After printing, start the peel at a corner with the tip of an Xacto and it should come off easily as I show in the video. Withe the tearing you described, I suspect too much adhesive, or the wrong type.

Hope you get it sorted, as once you do, you'll love it!

Gene
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 11:28 AM
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Thanks Gene. I guess I better take the printer apart then, since even though it is printing well now, that might not last.

Thanks for the advice -- I actually do have the Loctite stuff which I got for adhering the tissue to the foam as you do, so will try that on the carrier.

The Krylon Easy-Tack did work better than the Scotch -- but still either very loose (baggy coming out of the printer) or second time around impossible to start a peel.

I will use tape at the top now.

I am wondering whether the backing paper also makes a difference -- I've been using some plain paper 11 x 14. Maybe a better quality paper would need less spray to stick, and so easier to peel. If a paper is too absorptive, maybe you need more sprasy to get it to stick, but then it's too much?

Do you use a particular brand/type of backing paper?
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 02:45 PM
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I guess I better take the printer apart then, since even though it is printing well now....
I wouldn't do that unless it's ABSOLUTELY necessary!! (exclamation points)

Quote:
I am wondering whether the backing paper also makes a difference -....
I don't think so - I use "regular" paper - whatever's around. I'm away from home, but when I get back, I'll let you know what brand/weight/brightness I'm using at the moment.

I'm really glad to see you giving the tissue-printing/paper-modelling a try - appears we're a very small group.

Gene K
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 04:59 PM
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Haha too late! I already had the top off, most of the plastic trim off, carts out. I can see the metal shield over the print section, and removed the 3 screws holding that on, but the shield is still locked in place in the plastic side panels. Not sure how to go further. Some printers have a hinged upper panel to lift the electronics, but I don't see that -- it may be there, but I don't know how it is released for access. Think I'll give up for the evening and put it back together. Maybe ask around on the "fix your own printer" groups, unless you remember how you accessed the inner section.

I've opened and repaired laptops, hacked one to a later processor, and took apart and repaired one large format office inkjet before. I do realize the risk of damaging it here messing with this one, but hate to think that piece of tissue is riding around on the fuser drum. Still, the thing prints okay. Not entirely sure what to do. Should I just leave it and hope maybe it will gradually wear off?

Anyway, happy to continue printing on tissue, Gene. It really opens up a lot of possibilities for me now.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 07:50 PM
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i found that i had problems removing the cariier sheet, so i dusted my carrier and then pressed my hand to it to 'dirty' up the spray adhesive. works for me, but a little messy.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 08:50 PM
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Eureka!

Put it all back together and using the Loctite spray adhesive and tape worked great! I have a complete set of skins now for the Nieuport.

The Loctite spray really does seem different than the other two I tried -- leaves a kind of plastic feeling finish after it dries, not tacky. And absolutely minimal amount does it -- the tape is really necessary to hold the tissue on. I think I have the technique down now.

Colors are much better than the inkjet provided, and there's a slight sheen.

I use Libre Office Draw -- a free program to lay out my scaled up parts. I first take a snapshot of each part in Adobe Acrobat. (Note: It is important to set Acrobat's preferences to do a snapshot at 600 dpi which is my printer's normal resolution. On my computer, Acrobat was originally set at 72 dpi -- screen resolution -- which is too coarse.)

Then I paste the snapshot of the part now in the clipboard into a L.O. Draw page. I then right click the image and select "Original Size" from the drop down, which scales the image up a little, though not to the scale I want. I then right click and select "Position and Size". This gives an info box with the dimensions of the clip I have just pasted.

To scale up, I usually pick the width dimension in the info box, and using an on-screen calculator, multiply that by whatever scale factor I want. I put the result into info box as a new width, and hit "Okay". The part is now scaled. I can then move it around to place it near other parts to get best sheet usage.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 08:53 PM
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nemoskull thanks for that.

I now remember that the Bradleys also used a somewhat similar method of putting down some paper and peeling it off a few times until the tack was low.


Here it is:

http://www.parmodels.com/Printing%20..._on_tissue.htm
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 11:20 PM
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Question, how do you attach the bead wire to the aileron horn? Do you bend an L, and make a keeper of some sort?

I did see the photos of the attachment at the servo end -- using a sort of spring shape made of winding wire, but didn't see how it was attached at the aileron end.

Thanks!
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