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http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...r%5F750kv.html
I have used this motor with no issue on 3 and 4 cell turning a 13x9 in the hk phoenix 2000 I guess for $20 you can't do much better, I agree. I s'pose I'm trying to avoid boring a hole in a brand new fuslage before it has even been outside. True weight of the 3648 is 190 gram? Is that right? The arc inrunner is made for large fans, is capable of higher voltage 6s, 1200watts, I think it should be able to handle short bursts way over spec, but can the hk airframe handle it? |
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if your going to keep watching I'll keep posting. Spent some time at it today with the tail and servos with good results. Actually the set up is good, and doesn't create any drag outside the line of the fuslage.
thought I'd give the fancy turnigy alloy case servos a go. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...06sec_21g.html So routed the fuse open built a new tray cut down the carbon fibre rod and epoxied in the square alloy horn. Probably the most fiddly bit keeping the glue off the wipers and positioning the horn the same on either side, then epoxied in some threaded rod, have used sullivan gold at the servo end 2-56 and the supplied wing threaded rod for the tail end. Is it 2mm and metric? not sure but it suited the plastic ball joints supplied as was slightly smaller then the 2-56. intend to use 2-56 for ail and flap, it is stiffer than the supplied rod. well all good except for the centre points of the control surfaces that foul with each other. I have the end point adjusted down to 60% to stop fouling but when elevator and rudder are inputted at the same time there can still be a problem. A little needs to be shaved of the inside edge of the control surface at an angle. Still was getting a good 8mm movement. don't think much more will be required. hopefully lay out the wings tomorrow and solder up plugs and extensions for the wing servos.... |
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Vid works great for me.
Do you really need 90 degrees of flap travel? I don't know, just asking. If you're really keen on the bottom drive thing, it seems to me that you would have the exact same kinematic if you kept the flap horn straight, and just mounted it further back in the flap. Is there another reason for the bend? |
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Behind the wiper inside the flap, and aileron too, is a 4mm strip of balsa as the build up of the flight surface. past that you cannot get into the cavity of the flap. as with the mounting position of the aileron knurl i think it would be the best spot in the flap too. you can get glue in there and use that balsa as support to glue to as well
if this bottom pull thing doesn't work out the threaded knurl will be in position to access from the top too yeah getting heaps of deflection always try to get as much mechanically first and then sort out what i use with the radio even some up for spoiling |
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Quote:
I have my Luna for 7 months and I love it. Brendan, I know how you feel. I did it from the bottom also. I had to redo it after couple of flights. I had to add spacers to flap horns. About 3/8". Standard length was over powering my servos. If you care I could post some pics. Rob |
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