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Old May 14, 2012, 05:35 PM
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Brown junior

You can see on the pic a backside view of the opened Brown Junior I recently bought on ebay .
Is set a new conrod I made on afternoon . At the bottom is the original conrod, the main hole was a bit ovalised . I made the new one a little stronger around this hole .
On the pic middle is a "raw" rod, I made 2 the same time ..
A question is what was, when made, the material used as a seal between cylinder and crankase ?
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Old May 14, 2012, 07:13 PM
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It was a paper gasket about .010 (.2540mm) thick. Trick is to get one just thin enough to work but thick enough to keep the cylinder indexed to the case. Too loose and the cylinder can turn when the engine is running.
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Old May 14, 2012, 09:48 PM
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Nice job on the connecting rod. it looks great.
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Old May 15, 2012, 03:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Leadchucker View Post
It was a paper gasket about .010 (.2540mm) thick. Trick is to get one just thin enough to work but thick enough to keep the cylinder indexed to the case. Too loose and the cylinder can turn when the engine is running.
So my engine is OK, that' s what I have ..
Thank you !
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Old May 15, 2012, 03:53 AM
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Nice job on the connecting rod. it looks great.
Thank you . Has been hard to make, as I have not US reamers ..
I have honed the big hole using a 4.7mm broken drill tail : nice .. For the small hole , I have reamed 3.5 mm and inserted a brass tube to get 1/8". Also nice ..
So a piece of 2017, a drill, files, dremel , some elbow oil , and some time to spend ..
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Old May 15, 2012, 07:26 AM
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I thought it turned out OK. I have done that a lot, make my own reamers. To get a full set of reamers to cover any eventuality would be incredibly expensive. So many people make them as they need them.
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Old May 15, 2012, 07:47 AM
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I thought it turned out OK. I have done that a lot, make my own reamers. To get a full set of reamers to cover any eventuality would be incredibly expensive. So many people make them as they need them.
Yes, this is the good way .. to use them one or 2 times a life ..
Cheers from France !
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Old May 16, 2012, 09:45 AM
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Nice job,
Around here there are numerous shops that will re-grind a reamer down to a custom size for a nominal fee . If any one needs a reamer made up send me PM and I will be glad to help.
Hand reaming short bores like this is best done by using a jig in order to get the best alignment . Of course this one was probably done in the machine uing the same set up to position the original bore. Helical flutes on the reamer rather than striaght flute wil result on a more "round" hole as well .
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Old May 19, 2012, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary Cee View Post
Nice job,
Around here there are numerous shops that will re-grind a reamer down to a custom size for a nominal fee . If any one needs a reamer made up send me PM and I will be glad to help.
Hand reaming short bores like this is best done by using a jig in order to get the best alignment . Of course this one was probably done in the machine uing the same set up to position the original bore. Helical flutes on the reamer rather than striaght flute wil result on a more "round" hole as well .
Thank you for the compliment and your offer .. May be I ' m a bit far from you ..
I know a french company who also sells reamers at the size you want , actually, they also regrind the upper size .
My problem is that I ' m very patient when working ( not always .. ) but it ' s too much waiting 2 days to get a reamer .. So , I prefer make with what I find in my shop ..
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Old Jun 17, 2012, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Leadchucker View Post
It was a paper gasket about .010 (.2540mm) thick. Trick is to get one just thin enough to work but thick enough to keep the cylinder indexed to the case. Too loose and the cylinder can turn when the engine is running.
Are you absolutely sure about that? I have had a number of Brown Juniors of various years and they all had thin copper shim gaskets. The idea was to use the correct number of these shims to get the cylinder orientation correct. The one remaining Brown that I have also has a copper shim.
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Old Jun 23, 2012, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by krafty View Post
Are you absolutely sure about that? I have had a number of Brown Juniors of various years and they all had thin copper shim gaskets. The idea was to use the correct number of these shims to get the cylinder orientation correct. The one remaining Brown that I have also has a copper shim.
Considering the mechanical situation of the seal, copper would seem to me to be better suited than paper. Thank you for your observation.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 03:43 PM
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Is it possible to get from an american shop complete points assembly for this motor?
Thank you
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by frenchomebuilder View Post
Is it possible to get from an american shop complete points assembly for this motor?
Thank you
There are two styles of timers with different cam setups.
Both are available from Woody's Engines for around $50.00 or 39.00.
The upright timer has the cam on the back of the front drive washer while the Hurleman timer has the cam on the crankshaft. The upright timer is Woody's catalogue # 73 and the Hurleman is part # 74. Woody does do international shipping ,his e-mail is aeroelectric@chartermi.net.
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Leadchucker View Post
There are two styles of timers with different cam setups.
Both are available from Woody's Engines for around $50.00 or 39.00.
The upright timer has the cam on the back of the front drive washer while the Hurleman timer has the cam on the crankshaft. The upright timer is Woody's catalogue # 73 and the Hurleman is part # 74. Woody does do international shipping ,his e-mail is aeroelectric@chartermi.net.
Thank you very much !
I' ve just bought a Brown Junior, without timing . I' ve not yet received it ..
I' ll let you know ..
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 12:14 PM
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Thank you very much !
I' ve just bought a Brown Junior, without timing . I' ve not yet received it ..
I' ll let you know ..
When you get it, I can look up the serial number so you get the correct timer if there's no drive washer on it. Clarification needed here, the Hurleman timer cam in actually on the hub part of the drive washer, not directly on the crankshaft. No matter, we'll get you sorted when you're ready.
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