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Old Jun 17, 2012, 02:26 AM
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Australia, WA, Mandurah
Joined Apr 2012
260 Posts
I've got zero interest in 3D flying ATM. I had 2 minor crashes (Hard landings?) yesterday because the wind got me and my instinctive reaction was to "Slow down" by reducing the collective. Wrong both times I know, but it's hard to overcome natural instinct when things happen so fast! If I'd had a 3D setup I would have hit the ground MUCH harder. As it was I didn't do any damage apart from popping the canopy off. Stupid wind - blowing again today

At least I am remembering to hit TH before I hit the ground, that has become a natural instinct now...maybe I'll try 3D later, but for now I'll be happy to just fly smoothly and not crash!
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Aachen Germany
Joined Dec 2007
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Switching throttle-hold to ON is a tough reflex to train when you are conditioned to slamming the throttle down when you get in trouble - especially when everything turns to oooooooooooh and the brain freezes! Old habits never die - just the habit maker. I still 1st reflex instead of 2nd reflex (re-learned) and that zero negative pitch has saved my mmmm mmmm more than once. When there is wind - crank in a little negative pitch (-2) to help minimize the bobbing from translational lift and keep a couple more feet above the ground so you have a little clearance. Better to have and not need it - than need it and not have it!
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Old Jun 19, 2012, 01:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck1073 View Post
I used CaptJack's idle-up settings on my mCPx with great success. Spin it up in normal (DX6i), switch to idle-up and lift off abut half stick. Easy peasy. Next comes the 450 with those settings.
Sorry this is my first post, hope have done it right. Chuck i have just got a Mcpx v2 and its been hammered into me that i must use 3D settings,this is not the path i want to take. i have a DX6I, could you please share your settings.
cheers Mark
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Old Jun 19, 2012, 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Markus45 View Post
Sorry this is my first post, hope have done it right.
You done it right!! Welcome aboard to NON-3D! Here is a compilation of the posts for the mCPx that leaves the 3D in the hangar and help you get you off the ground without standing on your head

There are 2 flight-modes on the DX6i - NORM & STUNT. Each mode has its own throttle-curve and pitch-curve in the ADJUST LIST. The modes are selected with the F-MODE switch on the top-left of the transmitter. "O" = NORM : "1" = STUNT.

You spin-up in NORM and fly in STUNT - where NORM is for spinning-up when you are on the ground and you switch over to STUNT when you are ready to fly. For hovering you hardly need any negative pitch on the collective - hence the 8 at top stick, 3 at center stick and -2 at bottom stick. This gives you much finer resolution for maintaining altitude.


The throttle curve for NORM is---0,60,60,60,60
The throttle curve for STUNT is 0,60,70,75,80

The pitch curve for NORM is---2,0,3,3,3 (can't fly - only spins-up)
The pitch curve for STUNT is -2,0,4,6,8 (the 4,6,8 makes it fly)

NOTE-1: Pitch curves in the transmitter are in percentage (0-100%) and have to be converted into degrees for each helicopter. Each helicopter is different because of the mechanical variables. You can eyeball the blades on an mCPx (almost as close as a pitch gauge) by "sighting" down the blade from the ends. The blade tips are nearly flat - so 0 is pretty easy to see - then "compute" the rest of the settings by adding 20% to the percentage number on your pitch curve. Example if 0 is 44% ... try 52% for 2 ... 60% for 4 ... 68% for 6 ... 76% for 6 ... (36% for -2) Should be close enough for government purposes but tweak the numbers for best results when you are in flight tests.

For hovering you don't need any negative pitch but you need lots of resolution on your collective - hence the 8 at top stick, 3 at center stick and -2 at bottom stick. This gives you much finer resolution for maintaining altitude. Use about 20 percent expo for the cyclic - less than that you will over-control - more than that it will be too "sluggish". (ADJUST LIST -> D/R & EXPO -> AILE 60% 20% | ELEV 60% 20% |RUDD 60% 20%|

Recommend: Using a neck-strap so you aren't holding your transmitter and your hands can rest on the sides of the transmitter. If you are a "thumber" introduce you finger to your thumb - this will give you much finer control of the sticks.


FLIGHT TEST

Before connecting battery - switch TH HOLD to "1" and F-MODE to "0". Connect battery - bind - position heli on heli-pad - switch TH HOLD to "0" Your heli is now ready for spin-up. Gradually bring up collective to about 25% - it will jump start from the 0 to 60 throttle transition but it won't fly - it might try to tip over though so you may have to work the cyclic a little to keep it on the skids. NOTE: Moving the cyclic while it is on the ground "calibrates" the 3-axis gyro for a gradual lift-off.

Continue to increase the collective to where there is little or no increase in head-speed ( the pitch will load the motor down slightly between 0 and 3) - the collective should be slightly below center stick at this point. This is the point where you want to switch from NORMAL flight mode to STUNT flight mode - head speed is constant.

Switch F-MODE to "1" - continual to increase collective - the heli will get light on the skids at about center stick - it will also try to tip over due to translational tendency so you will have to be working the cyclic as you lift. CONGRATULATIONS !! YOU ARE HOVERING !! ALMOST!!

Captains log: Learning to stand (hover) is an enormous undertaking - ask any infant learning to stand. It takes hours and hours of practice and falling on your face before you are standing and not wobbling all over the place. Be patient with yourself. That is the hardest lesson to learn in learning how to fly RC helicopters.
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Last edited by CaptJac; Dec 19, 2012 at 11:59 AM.
Old Jun 19, 2012, 05:38 AM
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Joined Jun 2012
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Thank you so much. my mid stick is a perfect 0 pitch (50 %) its so great to have help every answer i have got so far is i must have 0 25 50 75 100 which is not me at moment and may never be, all i want is to have fun not fly inverted and have to fix my pride and joy every day. Again thank you
Mark
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Old Jun 19, 2012, 02:12 PM
Fly Fast, Fly Hard, Fly Fun
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Canada, BC
Joined Apr 2012
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I've read most of this forum and I'm trying to determine what a reasonably inexpensive entry point into CP should be. I have a bunch of FP 4ch (V911's, DH 9116's, F45, S800G) an I can fly them all here reasonably well. My problem is I am getting very limited flight due to wind and even though I'm pretty good at fighting the wind, it's annoying. From what I've read I need the ability to "Fly down" when I'm caught in a gust. I can pretty much cut all power to throttle on these FP helis when I'm trying FF and it'll still ascend or get pushed back too far.

So I'm looking at entry 6ch - don't mind if it's small and zippy (I don't mind the V911 but honestly prefer the size of DH 9116) but I'd like mostly a nice stable all around flyer. Potential for 3d is cool but not essential... I'll get there eventually sure but mostly I just want to get really good at realistic flight first.

I'd like to stay below $200 but will go as high as $300 if needed.
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Old Jun 19, 2012, 03:40 PM
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United States, AL, Morris
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexless View Post
I've read most of this forum and I'm trying to determine what a reasonably inexpensive entry point into CP should be. I have a bunch of FP 4ch (V911's, DH 9116's, F45, S800G) an I can fly them all here reasonably well. My problem is I am getting very limited flight due to wind and even though I'm pretty good at fighting the wind, it's annoying. From what I've read I need the ability to "Fly down" when I'm caught in a gust. I can pretty much cut all power to throttle on these FP helis when I'm trying FF and it'll still ascend or get pushed back too far.

So I'm looking at entry 6ch - don't mind if it's small and zippy (I don't mind the V911 but honestly prefer the size of DH 9116) but I'd like mostly a nice stable all around flyer. Potential for 3d is cool but not essential... I'll get there eventually sure but mostly I just want to get really good at realistic flight first.

I'd like to stay below $200 but will go as high as $300 if needed.
The Blade 130X, still not shipping, looks interesting. I'm a little hesitant to buy something new on the market due to parts shortages and bugs, but this one is going to be hard to resist. Price is to be $279, but I'll bet you will be able to find it less than that.
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Old Jun 19, 2012, 06:02 PM
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Canada, BC
Joined Apr 2012
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That Blade 130X looks sweet. I hope it's less than $279 though. I'd need a tx to go with it...
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Old Jun 19, 2012, 06:34 PM
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Joined Apr 2012
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This thread is for me.

I've been flying for about 7-8 months now. I have WAY too many Helis already but this week I'm making the jump to a 450 size. I'm in the same boat as "AngryDad". The breezy nights kill my fun because they toss around the FP helis. Even my 120SR flies itself when the breeze comes through the hard.

ZERO interest in 3 D. My goal is to get into scale. Maybe even a Turbine someday ( if I don't need a new car ). I want gently, predictable, controllable and slightly heavy. Nice Scale Heli take offs, banked turns and landings. It's probably from being a Fireman for 20 years and watching the MediVac choppers land in peoples yards, the road, the CVS parking lot

It's looking like a Thunder Tiger Mini Titan 325SE kit for me...I love this forum.

Am I right, in thinking that it's easier to set up a Non 3D heli ?

Paul
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Old Jun 20, 2012, 02:55 AM
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Thank you for this info. can i start heli in stunt using soft start at 70 70 70 70 70 im concerned 0 to 60 in normal may damage main gear, sorry to question your advice. ( Angrydad thank you for your other reply, dont really understand how to do it. )
cheers mark.
Mcpx v2 Dx6i 120 sr
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Old Jun 20, 2012, 03:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexless View Post
That Blade 130X looks sweet. I hope it's less than $279 though. I'd need a tx to go with it...
If you waiting for someone to jump in with "here's one for $200" you may be waiting a while. A good quality transmitter is essential (DX6i for example) and that is going to eat your $279 budget for lunch and won't be much left but crumbs. Better to save your dollars until you can afford to get what you want instead of getting something you hope will fly and end up being disappointed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PCaola View Post
Am I right, in thinking that it's easier to set up a Non 3D heli ?
Easier to fly but not easier to set up. The setup is super critical for collective-pitch helicopters and can make the difference between and and usually

Quote:
Originally Posted by Markus45 View Post
can i start heli in stunt using soft start at 70 70 70 70 70 im concerned 0 to 60 in normal may damage main gear
Most ESCs won't let you start up unless the throttle is at 0 - hence the 0,60,60,60,60. You can ramp up to the 60 if the transition is too hard - 0,40,60,60,60 - the window is a little "tighter" though for the switch-over to stunt mode.
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Old Jun 20, 2012, 03:25 AM
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Australia, VIC, Sebastopol
Joined Apr 2012
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From what I understand soft start will work even revving up with the TX, so the 0-60 jump should be smooth with soft start enabled. Correct me if I am wrong, as I have no direct experience myself other than with sim CPs.
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Old Jun 20, 2012, 03:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slothy89 View Post
From what I understand soft start will work even revving up with the TX, so the 0-60 jump should be smooth with soft start enabled. Correct me if I am wrong, as I have no direct experience myself other than with sim CPs.
Thank you, do i need to enable soft start in Dx61 menu or is it standard in idle up and not in normal ( 0 ) also is soft start only available with mid stick 0 pitch . cheers mark.
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Old Jun 20, 2012, 04:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markus45 View Post
Thank you, do i need to enable soft start in Dx61 menu or is it standard in idle up and not in normal ( 0 ) also is soft start only available with mid stick 0 pitch . cheers mark.
Soft-start is independent of pitch. Soft-start is independent of your transmitter. Soft-start is a function of the ESC and has its own control functions. There is no ESC menu on your transmitter to set it up. The control functions of the ESC are "accessed" with your transmitter by the position of the collective stick. Each ESC comes with it's own control chart showing how to program it.
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Old Jun 20, 2012, 04:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptJac View Post
Soft-start is independent of pitch. Soft-start is independent of your transmitter. Soft-start is a function of the ESC and has its own control functions. There is no ESC menu on your transmitter to set it up. The control functions of the ESC are "accessed" with your transmitter by the position of the collective stick. Each ESC comes with it's own control chart showing how to program it.
Thank you.
mark
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