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Old Jan 10, 2013, 04:08 PM
Registered User
United States, FL, Miami
Joined Sep 2011
119 Posts
wow these floats are starting to sound really risky now with all the talk of water damaging the plane...
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 05:59 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,168 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by o.krug View Post
Hi,

another vid, my first flight on floats. Some mist, light wind.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3p4lT...ature=youtu.be

Greetings from Germany

Oliver
Oliver,

Great job on your ROW maiden! The mist made a nice effect in the video. Did it reduce your visibility? I flew in similar conditions on a couple of occasions, and found it difficult to see the wings & floats at times. The nav lights were my only reference during part of the approach. That long takeoff run was very cool. It reminded me of my days working for a seaplane/bush-plane flying service on Lake of the Woods in northern Minnesota when I was a kid. On freight-only flights to the islands, the pilots would load-up the Cessna 185s until they needed three miles to get off the water. Sometimes, they'd call a fishing launch on the radio & ask them to drive in circles & make a bunch of waves to help the planes break the stiction & lift-off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mat3415 View Post
wow these floats are starting to sound really risky now with all the talk of water damaging the plane...
Mat,

It's simply part of the deal when flying off water. Dunk a large-scale float plane in the lake & you'll be replacing lots of stuff, unless you waterproof all of the electronics & use sealed servos - which many guys don't do.

Like aero-towing, ROW flying is not for beginner or novice pilots. If you still worry about crashing when you go out to fly, if you have yet to progress to the point where you command the plane rather than simply react to what it just did, if you are essentially a passenger during your landings, or if you have yet to master the rudder - you are not ready to fly with the floats. Practice on wheels until you are comfortable flying the plane, and are able to nail your landings & put the plane where you want it to be on the runway. Work on part-throttle, two-wheel take-offs, tail-high two-wheel landings, and two-wheel touch & gos. Work on keeping the plane lined up on the runway with rudder when the tail is flying. That will give you lots of rudder practice, and you'll need all you can get. When you're comfortable doing the above on wheels, and when you're comfortable compensating for torque/slipstream/gyroscopic/P-factor effects with rudder when the tail comes up, you're ready to try ROW.

Joel
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 06:31 PM
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jacksonville florida
Joined Feb 2005
322 Posts
sound like a great idea if you plan on flying with floats which i do as soon as the new board gets here is to treat the board with the detoc5 you mentioned while its cracked open, i do have a question, this glue that holds the board down is it some type of silicon ? seems nice and light and very flexable unlike epoxy.what a sweet littleplane this is
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 07:00 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,168 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbear View Post
sound like a great idea if you plan on flying with floats which i do as soon as the new board gets here is to treat the board with the detoc5 you mentioned while its cracked open, i do have a question, this glue that holds the board down is it some type of silicon ? seems nice and light and very flexable unlike epoxy.what a sweet littleplane this is
Cbear,

Don't spray the brick with DeoxIT. It won't help at all, and it might detune the RF circuitry. DeoxIT is designed to clean, deoxidize, lubricate, and protect contacts & variable resistors. It is not designed to make things waterproof. When I mentioned waterproofing larger planes - I was referring to using waterproof servos, a waterproof receiver box, and a waterproof ESC. There is no practical method of waterproofing the UM bricks or the linear servos. You can't just spray stuff on 2.4GHz RF circuits, and there is no way of waterproofing the open linear servos. Many coatings & sprays that may work well at DC or low frequencies will totally screw up 2.4 GHz circuits. Besides - anything you spray on the brick will get into the servo resistive strips & screw them up.

I'm not sure which adhesive they use on the brick. If you go with silicone - make sure that you use an electronics-safe, neutral-cure variety. Regular acetic-cure silicone is never to be used near electrical equipment, as it corrodes copper wiring & circuitry.

Joel
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 02:01 AM
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Australia, QLD, Qunaba
Joined Dec 2012
69 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTseeker View Post
yep the next time i fly off water i want to make it a little more waterproof i got water through the front cowls holes calm water only for this little plane i reckon

heres my first fly off the water, EVER!

cheers chuck

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BVh-sZ4CRs
Hey Chuck ! your videos are what made me want to get into RC flying !!! Keep em coming.

Olly
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 01:07 PM
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Joined Sep 2011
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Originally Posted by mygeneration View Post
Hi i have made some nice carbon spars for my cub. lost one of the originals in a tree after elevator failure!
Made from 2mm solid carbon rod,
I also lost one of my wing struts.

Making your own is a really great idea---especially so because you can't order CC struts as a separate part. You have to order a complete wing set for $27.

It'd be interested in seeing more detail about how you attached the CF rods.

For my first attempt, I used two lengths of hollow CF rods (.125" OD x .060" ID). Front rod = 92.5mm. Back rod = 95.5mm. For the connectors, I used wire from a standard size paper clip for the wing and jumbo for the chasis.

For the part of the strut that comes together at the bottom of the "V", I soldered together part of a jumbo paper clip and part of the head of a safety pin. Hey, you use what you got

I used contact cement to join the CF to the wire. Everything depends upon the strength of the bonds between the wire and inside of the CF tubes.

The stock strut weighs 4.05g. My CF strut weighs 4.05g.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 06:54 PM
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jacksonville florida
Joined Feb 2005
322 Posts
wow thanks , i must have read it wrong , new board is here yippieee
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 07:47 PM
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United States, NC, Salisbury
Joined Jan 2005
990 Posts
Anyone flown the CC without the struts? THey seem semi functional in the way they are hooked into the fuse. Maybe some strength added but I bet the wings would bend more in flight. Not sure if they would come apart though.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 08:39 PM
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jacksonville florida
Joined Feb 2005
322 Posts
hey joel.when i read this i thought you were talking about the cc gets dunked, disconnect the pack ASAP & shake the water out. Blow the water out of the motor & aileron servos with a few good puffs. When you get home, give the aileron servos a shot or two of DeoxIT D5. If the water made it to the brick, open the fuse & give the internal servos a shot or two as well. Use a hair-dryer on a lukewarm or cool setting to dry the plane out, or put it near a heat vent - but be sure the air isn't hot enough to damage the foam. the mention of the brick threw me off i guess, anyway my new board arrived and is installed but it looks like i also need a new flap servo, its not moveing, the rear area of the old brick is white like slight corrosion,guess ill have to make another call to hh and wait a few more days
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 08:40 PM
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Joined Aug 2011
48 Posts
Repairs after water immersion

An old-time tip, that also works for water in the ear!:

Disconnect battery. If servos or rx is sealed, remove case(s). Blow out as much water from around the electronics as possible ( by mouth or gentle pressure, not 120 psi).

Submerge the servo or rx in plain old rubbing alcohol (from the drug store); swish it around some, the drain off the alcohol. Let it evaporate from the parts completely, which will take any water with it.

Put everything back together and try it out.

I have NEVER had this fail, even on cell phones dunked.

I suppose that if something shorted out badly enough during the original soaking, before you can disconnect the battery, then it might not be recoverable. Maybe I've just been lucky.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 09:35 PM
If it spins, wear it.
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Northern Nevada
Joined Jan 2011
2,149 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rscarawa View Post
Anyone flown the CC without the struts? THey seem semi functional in the way they are hooked into the fuse. Maybe some strength added but I bet the wings would bend more in flight. Not sure if they would come apart though.
I did long ago. Had the plane apart and simply forgot to put them back on. I realized it when I was flying and did see some wing flex. Not a lot but it wouldn't be a good idea to try a loop. I landed without incident and thought it would be better to not fly it until I properly re-assembled the CC It needs them for sure. If they could be made lighter it would be a plus. The CC is on the "fat" side and extra weight is always noticable IMHO. Mine gained weight with balsa tail feathers, not much in themselves but in the added nose balast to off-set the tiny add to the tail. Some call the CC over-powered and that it may be but she needs a diet too.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 09:41 PM
Chef Pilot: Planes vs Butter
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United States, VA, Hamilton
Joined Jul 2012
2,101 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rscarawa View Post
Anyone flown the CC without the struts? THey seem semi functional in the way they are hooked into the fuse. Maybe some strength added but I bet the wings would bend more in flight. Not sure if they would come apart though.
Unless you like to see your wings fold while in flight, it's a bad idea.
They do indeed add structural stabiltiy to the wing.
I had one flight where one of the struts popped out of the fuselage connection and then then the wing folded while doing a loop.
It's like watching a bird being shot and helplessly flutter to the ground.
So sad...

Without the struts, the wing WILL fold on you.
You can count on it.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 09:51 PM
Have fun
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Joined May 2007
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Cbear, your flap servo may be plugged incorrectly into the x-port/channel five, I believe it should be towards the front of the brick,
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 10:57 PM
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jacksonville florida
Joined Feb 2005
322 Posts
i unpluged the flaps, they plug into the center conector on the board , pluged em back in and rebound the transmitter and they workthanks airpower. mabe we fly in the am . i can feel the grin comeing
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 11:59 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,168 Posts
Cbear,

I was talking about the CC, but I never mentioned anything about spraying the brick with DeoxIT, nor did I mention anything about using DeoxIT to waterproof the electronics.

Joel
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