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Old Jan 06, 2013, 07:47 PM
Have fun
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Horizon sells them rtf, bring the part number to your lhs and they will probably get it for you.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 09:04 PM
Closet 'Air Supply' Fan!
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United States, NC, Salisbury
Joined Jan 2005
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Originally Posted by airpower View Post
Horizon sells them rtf, bring the part number to your lhs and they will probably get it for you.
Horizon Haas them back ordered until April. My lhs is 25 miles away. I tried to call them today but they did not pick up them phone.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 09:32 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
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Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by shastamike View Post
Flew my CC off snow (ROS) with stock floats. Was awesome on soft new snow (powder), but soon as the snow warmed and got wet the floats tracked too well as they are designed for water. I couldn't turn during taxi. My rudder control horn is set on closest hole. The floats were also surprisingly heavy. I don't need tracking or floatation so I'm thinking of cutting these down for snow skids. Flat bottoms coated with tape or such.
Question for you guys: what do I cut or shave the foam down with?
I wonder if the finished bottom is going to be chunky and pocked as the foam is actually a bunch of little foam balls isn't it?
Any ideas what to cut this with?
Will it be thick enough? With tape on bottoms I suppose it will be strong enough. Maybe glue on some plastic stuff for the bottoms ???
I'll for sure post my results. A little packing tape and a hot wax and I'll be shredding the pow, on the runway anyway.
Mike
Just cut it with a hobby knife, utility blade etc. and smooth it by lapping it on a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface.

Then you could glue a thin piece of styrene or polycarbonate to the bottom of it like the Super Cub floats for strength.

Edit: you could also glass the bottoms with 24g fiber cloth and Eze Kote, water based polyurethane or Minwax Polycrylic. I'm going to do the Eze Kote, possibly with the cloth, on the wing tips of my Super Cub.

Probably better though to just make them from scratch so you can make them pivot... with the rear ends hanging lower like the Du-bro skis.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 10:27 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,814 Posts
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Originally Posted by rscarawa View Post
I am looking for a 300 to 400 may battery with the proper connector for the CC. I know the 325 to is a popular choice. Any good sources for this battery? Any other good batteries inn this size range that I should consider along with a source?
The TP 325 65c will provide the highest thrust-to-weight & best throttle-response of any pack that will fit & allow for an acceptable CG. Plus, you get the 12c charging & TP's claimed 600-cycle lifespan. However, the new Hyperion VX 400 & 500 35c UMX packs are also excellent choices. They're designed for 5c charging, and they typically last for around 300 cycles at 5c charge before they start to fade away. They also provide exceptional throttle-response. They're a bit heavier than the TP 325, but they don't generate quite as much thrust, so thrust-to-weight is slightly lower. They're excellent choices for endurance-flying and for flying on windier days.

I buy custom lightweight versions of the TP & Hyp packs from RCBabbel. I buy my factory Hyp VX 400 & 500 UMX packs from All e RC. I buy my factory TP packs from my LHS.

Joel
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:16 AM
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Joined Dec 2012
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Turboparker,
Your checklist for the Carbon Cub is very helpful. But I don't understand how to set my dx6i TX for 10-15 degrees of flaps with the flap and mix settings to which you refer. I would like to have 3 position flaps but with less than 50% flaps at the middle setting.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 12:03 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,814 Posts
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Originally Posted by skinney2 View Post
Turboparker,
Your checklist for the Carbon Cub is very helpful. But I don't understand how to set my dx6i TX for 10-15 degrees of flaps with the flap and mix settings to which you refer. I would like to have 3 position flaps but with less than 50% flaps at the middle setting.
Skinney,

Thanks! Glad it helped. Regarding the flap mixing on the DX6i - I fly with a Futaba 10CHP, so I'm not much help there. The flap mix info came from Kalmon (Brian). I'm sure he will chime-in & explain it.

Joel
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 03:41 PM
Romans 8:34-39
bhoov128's Avatar
United States, FL, Davenport
Joined May 2012
8,520 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
The TP 325 65c will provide the highest thrust-to-weight & best throttle-response of any pack that will fit & allow for an acceptable CG. Plus, you get the 12c charging & TP's claimed 600-cycle lifespan. However, the new Hyperion VX 400 & 500 35c UMX packs are also excellent choices. They're designed for 5c charging, and they typically last for around 300 cycles at 5c charge before they start to fade away. They also provide exceptional throttle-response. They're a bit heavier than the TP 325, but they don't generate quite as much thrust, so thrust-to-weight is slightly lower. They're excellent choices for endurance-flying and for flying on windier days.

I buy custom lightweight versions of the TP & Hyp packs from RCBabbel. I buy my factory Hyp VX 400 & 500 UMX packs from All e RC. I buy my factory TP packs from my LHS.

Joel
Hey Joel, I always see you commenting on batteries and charge rates and cycles - can you tell me what charger you're using? It sounds to me like you get the most out of your batteries for these crazy micros and I'd like to do the same but don't know what kit to use. Right now I'm waiting on delivery of my CC and I don't have a 2s charger, and I use a celectra 4-port for 1s duty but that takes 30 mins to charge a 1 cell.

Thanks in advance
Ben
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 05:56 PM
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Australia, QLD, Qunaba
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Hi guys I've heard setting up a flap and elevator mix for this plane is recommend I have a Dx5e so I'm not sure if it's possible or if it is how to make it happen any help much apriciated. Thanks

Olly
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 09:31 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Originally Posted by bhoov128 View Post
Hey Joel, I always see you commenting on batteries and charge rates and cycles - can you tell me what charger you're using? It sounds to me like you get the most out of your batteries for these crazy micros and I'd like to do the same but don't know what kit to use. Right now I'm waiting on delivery of my CC and I don't have a 2s charger, and I use a celectra 4-port for 1s duty but that takes 30 mins to charge a 1 cell.

Thanks in advance
Ben
Ben,

Any accurate, well-made, hobby-grade charger will allow you to get the maximum life from your packs. It's primarily about the brand of pack, use condition, and storage - provided that the charger is accurate and reliable. The chargers I'd recommend depend upon where you plan to go with the hobby.

I use a Thunder Power 820CD, It supports 8s packs, and it has two independent channels that are limited to 20A & 400W each on 28V, or 20A & 200W each on 12V. On 28V, you can charge a pair of 4s packs simultaneously at 20A, or a pair of 8s packs at 7.5A. On 12V, you can charge a pair of 3s packs at 20A, or a pair of 8s packs at 5A. To take advantage of the full 400W/channel at home, you'd need a 28V 40A supply. A 12V 40A supply is required to get the full 200W/channel.

If you want the higher power, but don't need two independent channels, the CellPro 10XP would be a great choice. It supports one 10s packs or two 5s packs, and it is limited to 15A & 600W on a 30V supply, or 15A & 234W on a 12V supply. It can charge a 10s pack at 14A on 28V. On 12V, you can charge a 4s pack at 14A, or a 10s pack at 5.5A. You can also graph the performance of your packs & track them over time on your PC. You'd need a 28V 30A supply to take advantage of the full 600W, or a 12V 30A supply to get the full 245W.

If you plan to fly larger planes & helis, the above chargers are excellent choices. However - if you don't plan on flying larger aircraft, the chargers above are major overkill. If you plan on staying with the smaller stuff, here are a few choices that I'd recommend:

If your budget allows, and if you'd like a full-featured charger with four independent channels & a built-in AC supply, I suggest the Hitec X4 AC+4. It has four 6A 50W channels & it supports 6s packs. It can charge four 2s packs simultaneously at 6A, four 3s packs simultaneously at 4A, or four 6s packs simultaneously at 2A. You can also charge four different types of packs simultaneously, if you wish. Plus, you can graph the performance of your packs & track them over time on your PC.

If you're on a tighter budget, but still want built-in AC, I suggest the Thunder Power TP610C AC/DC. It supports 6s packs, and it is limited to 10A & 80W. It can charge a 2s pack at 10A, a 3s pack at 6.5A, or a 6s pack at 3.25A.

If built-in AC isn't important, I suggest the Thunder Power TP610C. It has the same specs as the AC/DC version. You'd also need a 12V 10A supply.

If you're on a really tight budget, I know that many people like the Turnigy Accucel 6. It supports 6s packs, and it's limited to 6A & 50W. It can charge a 2s pack at 6A, a 3s pack at 4A, or a 6s pack at 2A. You'd also need a 12V 6A supply.

The keys to LiPo longevity:

  • Never discharge them deeper than 80%, as measured by how many mAh it takes to recharge.
  • Do not overload them. Always choose a pack that is honestly rated for at least twice the continuous current that your system will draw.
  • Never exceed the manufacturer's charge C-rating.
  • Never overcharge them. Even a couple hundredths of a volt over 4.2V/cell is too much.
  • Never fully-charge them to 4.2V/cell & then let them cool down internally to below 40 F. If you can't keep them warm before using them in cold wx, use your charger's cold-wx charge function to limit the charge.
  • When flying in the winter, set your flight-timer conservatively, as LiPos suffer over-discharge damage at a shallower depth-of-discharge than they do at normal operating temps.
  • Do not store them fully-charged for long periods. Use your charger's storage-charge function if you're not going to fly for a few days or more.
  • Store them at room temp. LiPos do not like heat or cold. Never store them below 50 F or above 80 F. Be sure that they stay below 120 F in flight. Never, ever leave them in a hot car.
And finally - buy quality packs that are known to last for 300 or more cycles when properly cared for. All the pampering in the world won't make cheaply-made LiPos that typically start to fade away after a few tens of cycles last as long as high-quality LiPos that typically perform nearly as well after a few hundred cycles as they did right after break-in.



Joel
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Last edited by turboparker; Jan 07, 2013 at 09:53 PM.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 09:44 PM
Romans 8:34-39
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United States, FL, Davenport
Joined May 2012
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Thank you very much. I think out of those options the Hitec x4 looks like a great choice. I doubt very much I'll be getting into huge planes with large cell count, I prefer smaller things I can fly in the field inside my neighborhood, although I won't rule out a larger model completely. I'm looking for how to keep my packs working well without being worried about safety and fires, and also not taking 3 hours to charge a set of batteries for a flight day. I don't like keeping charged batteries on hand so multiple ports is a great thing. Also, with more and more freight carriers having lipo restrictions, it may get to the point where cheap lipos are impossible to come by just due to shipping, and if I'm having to pay the large premium the LHS wants for batteries I don't want to get 10 cycles out of it and have it puff up and not work well. I really appreciate the detailed response.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 09:49 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Originally Posted by Dlta Nvmbr Ynkee View Post
Hi guys I've heard setting up a flap and elevator mix for this plane is recommend I have a Dx5e so I'm not sure if it's possible or if it is how to make it happen any help much apriciated. Thanks

Olly
Olly,

The DX5e only has one mix (elevons), and it has a single-position Channel 5 (gear) switch. It doesn't have adjustable servo travel, which means that reducing the flap travel on the tx isn't an option. Unfortunately, you're stuck with no flaps/full-flaps & no elevator mix. If you are serious about the hobby, I highly recommend that you upgrade to a DX6i or better. If your budget allows, get a DX7s or DX8. You will thank yourself later.

Joel
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:09 PM
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Australia, QLD, Qunaba
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Thanks Joel I'll order Dx6i model memory would be a big plus as well
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:16 PM
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Australia, QLD, Qunaba
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How do you set up the flap elevator mix on a Dx6i for a carbon cub ?
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 10:55 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Originally Posted by Dlta Nvmbr Ynkee View Post
How do you set up the flap elevator mix on a Dx6i for a carbon cub ?
See my Carbon Cub handling checklist for a link. It's in the flying with flaps section.

If your budget allows, I strongly suggest the DX7s or DX8. They have many extremely useful features, such as user-assignable switches, multi-position flaps with programmable delay and elevator compensation, extensive pre-canned mixes & programmable mixes, presets for many types of wing & tail configurations, built-in telemetry, a throttle-activated timer, and a lot more memory. They also have ball-bearing gimbals & LiPo packs.

Joel
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:30 PM
Romans 8:34-39
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United States, FL, Davenport
Joined May 2012
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
See my Carbon Cub handling checklist for a link. It's in the flying with flaps section.

If your budget allows, I strongly suggest the DX7s or DX8. They have many extremely useful features, such as user-assignable switches, multi-position flaps with programmable delay and elevator compensation, extensive pre-canned mixes & programmable mixes, presets for many types of wing & tail configurations, built-in telemetry, a throttle-activated timer, and a lot more memory. They also have ball-bearing gimbals & LiPo packs.

Joel
My dx8 was worth every penny. I got it new here on rcg classifieds sans telemetry receiver for a great price. Just having the ability to slow flaps deployment down to 3 even 4 seconds is almost worth the price of admission. I'm nowhere near up to speed on all it can do and just love the thing.
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