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Old May 04, 2012, 06:48 PM
Master of Micro Modding
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Mini-HowTo
mCX2 The ULTIMATE Upgrade Guide

The ULTIMATE mCX2 Upgrade Guide



If you have arrived at this page via my BLOG, please click HERE to access the entire mCX2 ULTIMATE Upgrade Guide
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Last edited by valiantGLX; May 07, 2012 at 07:54 AM.
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Old May 06, 2012, 09:59 PM
Master of Micro Modding
valiantGLX's Avatar
Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
2,541 Posts
There are several main reasons as to why somebody would want to upgrade their BLADE mCX2:

1. Better Performance
2. Better Durability
3. Better Aesthetics

This guide will assist you with making the right descisions the first time in regards to upgrade parts and/or modifications.

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1. Better Performance


By upgrading the performance you will achieve faster flight in every direction and better response. Don't be fooled into believing that you will need to spend a small fortune when upgrading the performance of your mCX2.

Before I get into the specifics of configurations I first want to discuss battery and flybar options. Also I would like to discuss the benefits of mechanically trimming you mCX2:

Batteries


Bigger is not better, in fact in terms of overall performance it is actually quite the opposite. As you increase the mAh's you subsequently increase the weight too, and every extra gram you add is detrimental to the peformance of a heli this size. With the mCX2 overheating is a common issue and by adding more weight the motors will have to work harder to provide the same amount of thrust (lift). Also a flight time of 5 - 6 minutes max is reccomended therefore rendering the higher mAh batteries useless, as this amount of flight time is easily reached with 120 - 130 mAh batteries.

When upgrading the battery I reccomend using a 130 mAh, 25c LIPO, such as the ones offered by Miniaviation: http://www.miniaviation.com/KM_130P.html

25c batteries provide a stronger current flow than the stock batteries, as I believe the stock batteries are only 14c.

Flybars

By making the flybar shorter and lighter in moderation you can achieve better agility, while the longer and heavier flybars provide better stability. Here are some flybar options for your mCX2:
  • mCX stock flybar - Begginer - Best stability.
  • mCX2 stock flybar - Novice - Good allrounder.
  • mCX2 modified flybar - Intermediate - Starting to hit that untapped agility.
  • Scout CX stock flybar - Professional - Awesome agility, you can easily throw your heli off balance with this one meaning really fast flight.
  • Scout CX modified flybar - Master - CRAZY!!!

You can easily modify the above BLADE flybars by cutting the plastic parts of the weights off with a sharp knife. See picture tutorial below:




Mechanical Trim


Mechanically trimming your mCX2 is an absolute must when strieving to achieve great performance. By Mechanically trimming your mCX2 you will reduce if not illiminate the need to digitally trim your heli using your transimitter (TX), and by doing this you will gain more servo throw if you were previously using alot of digital trim.

Here is a quick picture guide on how to proceed with mechanically trimming your mCX2:


Please note: When you are setting the mechanical trim you should start by only twisting the swashplate horn 360 to 720 at a time in the direction that you need.

Additionally if you are using the Carbon Fibre Tail Boom you should be able to remove the balance weight and compensate for it by using mechanical trim.

Rotor Gears:


In regards to the rotor gears think of them as the flywheel on a car, where a lighter flywheel will give you more revs but at the cost of loosing revs during gear changes. On the mCX2 you only gain the pros from having lighter rotor gears (flywheel), which is slightly more throttle response.

This mod wont make the world of difference, however I do notice that my mCX2 S300's throttle is a little bit more punchy now.

]


Reversing the Battery Orientation:



There are several benefits to this mod:
1. It looks much more streamlined without the wires hanging out of the back.
2. I believe that the weight is better distributed, achieving a more desirable centre of gravity,
3. When using longer than stock batteries, they don't interfere with the servos.

First cut a hole in the front part of the canopy, like so:


Now add the canopy mounting grommets to where the skids connect to the main frame (this gives you a bit more clearance between the servos and the battery), like so:


Then weave the power wires through the support posts of the 5-in-1 board in such a way that you can twist the wires together without pulling on the soldered connections of the 5-in-1 board (This also keeps the wires centered), like so:




Performance Configurations:



The following is the best bang per buck configuration:
  • Carbon Fibre Tail Boom - Removes several grams of weight and causes less wind resistance.
  • BLADE Scout CX Flybar - Better agility
  • Swashplate on the 'Advanced' setting (longer balls) - Gives you more throw.
  • 120 - 130 mAh 25c Battery - Delivers more power.
  • Reverse the battery orientation (see http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1646237) - Creates a better centre of gravity + looks better.
  • Mechanically Trim it - Adds greatly to the overall performance by fine tuning it to perfection.


The following is the best performance configuration that money can buy:
  • Carbon Fibre Tail Boom - Removes several grams of weight and causes less wind resistance.
  • BLADE Scout CX Flybar - Better agility
  • Swashplate on the 'Advanced' setting (longer balls) - Gives you more throw.
  • 120 - 130 mAh 25c Battery - Delivers more power.
  • Reverse the battery orientation (see http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1646237) - Creates a better centre of gravity + looks better.
  • Mechanically Trim it - Adds greatly to the overall performance by fine tuning it to perfection.
  • mCX straight servo linkages - Illiminates the springiness of the stock linkages for better response.
  • DX6i (navigate here for settings http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1646243) - Arguably the best performance upgrade but it will cost more than your mCX2.


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2. Better Durability


This is all about making your mCX2 more resilient to hard landings (crashes) and is achieved by adding aluminium parts, but this comes at a large cost. Also note that these aluminium parts are actually quite light and will not add alot of weight to your mCX2.

These aluminium parts look great too, they add to the BLING, BLING factor.
  • MicroHeli Innershaft and Upper Rotor Head - Rigidity also slightly adds to the performance.
  • MicroHeli Lower Rotor Head
  • MicroHeli Retaining Collar and Upper Bearing
  • MicroHeli Swashplate
  • MicroHeli Mainframe - Also acts as a heat sink increasing the life of the motors, but it does require some work for a propper fit.
The MicroHeli Outershaft is however rubbish, it will bend after the first hard landing, I have even heard reports that it will bend if you look at it funny.

Navigate here for more information on MicroHeli products for your mCX2: http://www.microheli.com/store/index.php/cPath/3_31






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3. Better Aesthetics

To make your mCX2 aesthetically pleasing is totally in the eye of the beholder, some people like the full canopy, others prefer the pod and boom setup, some people prefer the navigation lights, while others find them distracting, etc, etc.

The market is actually pretty limited when it comes to ready to fit canopies and other aesthetic items. As far as other compatible BLADE canopies go the only option is to retro fit your mCX2 with an mCX canopy or mCX S300 goodies.

Here are a couple pictures of an mCX2 S300 that I prepared earlier (notice the mCX2 navigation lights that I custom fitted to this canopy):



Or you could choose to use a combination of mCX2 and mCX S300 parts as pictured below:




Pro Tip: The use of shrink wrap tubing is a great way to change the colour of your tail boom and give it a rounded effect.

Also the number of aftermarket canopies and other aesthetic items is quite limited too, with the only exception that I know of being MIA products by Micro-Flight. If you live outside of the US the guy will charge you an absolutely ridiculous amount for postage fees which is not negotiable (I have tried to knock the postage fees down a bit in the past). For example his "Preset Deluxe Stabilizers" cost USD $9.99, they would weigh no more than 20 grams including the envelope, but he is charging USD $34.00 in postage fees. WHAT A JOKE MARIO IF YOU ARE READING THIS.

For more information on MIA products by Micro-Flight click here: http://www.micro-flight.com/BLADE-MCX.htm

Here is an example of a MIA MD500E Scale Body that was assembled by Roboheli: Visit RoboHeli's MCX2 blog here.


The other option for alternative canopies and other aesthetic items is for people who consider themselves modellers. This option would be to purchase a canopy to suit a different make and model of helicopter, then adapt it to fit your mCX2.

Here are some examples of 2 Nine Eagles Draco canopies being used in conjunction with mCX S300 parts, again by Roboheli: Visit RoboHeli's MCX2 blog here.



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Last edited by valiantGLX; Nov 09, 2012 at 02:04 AM.
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