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Old Oct 04, 2012, 02:22 PM
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 05:18 PM
More Altitude, Less Attitude!
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United States, SC, Ninety Six
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Glad to help.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 04:09 PM
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Vancouver, Canada
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Arrow diameter?

I am in the midst of gathering parts to do the various upgrades. My source of arrow shafts says that she has a box of them of different diameters and choices.

What diameter do you guys use?

Do you scrape them like you do for DLG booms so that the epoxy is stronger?

thanks,
John
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 04:36 PM
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United States, FL, Miami
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John63 View Post
I am in the midst of gathering parts to do the various upgrades. My source of arrow shafts says that she has a box of them of different diameters and choices.

What diameter do you guys use?

Do you scrape them like you do for DLG booms so that the epoxy is stronger?

thanks,
John
I'd be interested in one of those arrow shafts from your "source". Can't seem to find anything reasonable locally.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 06:44 PM
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 09:33 AM
More Altitude, Less Attitude!
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United States, SC, Ninety Six
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I have finished most of the major construction on Radian 4. I reused all of the electronics from Radian 3 (Himax HC3510-1100 motor, Eflite 30A Pro ESC, 2x Hitec HS-81 servos, Spektrum AR6200 receiver). I also reused my BB aluminum spinner 50/4/8 and Graupner CAM 10 x 6 folding prop. I reinforced the canopy area to resist compression from bumping the nose. I added a small diameter CF rod to the top and bottom of the aft fuse and one through the vertical stab. I installed Sullivan Gold-N-Rods and moved the elevator control horn inboard. Now, both rods have pretty much a straight run. I replaced the stock elevator control horn with a Dubro 1/2A and cut it down so it doesn’t bump the rudder. The fuse is very rigid and straight. To my delight, the stock decalage angle of the h-stab saddle of my new fuse was nearly zero, so I didn’t adjust it. On the wings, I added a 1” x 13/32” nylon washer recessed into the spar insertion hole to resist compression and deformation in that area. I also replaced the stock spar with the Radian Pro spar (same diameter, thicker wall) to cut down on wing flex. I added 1.75” x 18” flaps. The outboard end gets a little into the curve of the wing, but not enough to cause problems. I used 2x Hitec HS-55 servos with a very low profile connection to the flap control horns (also cut down Dubro 1/2A’s). With a 7g weight in the tail, she balances at 3.50” from the LE.

I took her out for a glide test this weekend and once she was trimmed and balanced properly, she performed beautifully. From a light, level toss, she would glide hands-off 50-60 yards straight and true. My DX6i is a fantastic and praiseworthy radio, but I’m a little limited in what I can do with the flaps. Just not enough mixes to do full flaps with elevator compensation and a camber setting. I elected to add camber with the flaps switch. When employed, both flaps drop just a few millimeters. The effect is mind-boggling. My already floaty Radian behaves like it’s filled with helium with the additional camber. The same light, level hand toss had me running out of real estate before I ran out of altitude. I had to force the nose down to land her. It will be interesting to see how any of that translates to thermal performance. I’ll be finishing up construction soon and adding her war paint. Maybe I can post some pictures or a short video later.
Well, I just finished the final touches to Radian 4 REF. She’s looking sweet and is gliding as good as she looks. I upgraded my radio to a DX7s, and my options for programming just exploded. With the throttle cut function, I was able to move camber control to the throttle stick and use half and full flap deployment on the flap switch. When I flip the mix switch, the motor will not run and raising the throttle stick lowers the flaps just a little to add camber to the wings. I really like the way my paint scheme turned out. The bottom half of the fuse is black, and the bottom of the wings and h-stab is black with fluorescent orange tips separated from the black with a narrow white stripe. The spinner and rudder are also fluorescent orange. I did end up taking what little remained of the decalage out, and my CG is somewhere between 3.375” and 3.500”. I took her out for some final glide testing last night. Man, will she glide hands-off a long way, especially with a little camber added! On my final throw, I switched off the throttle, dropped the flaps a few millimeters, and gave her a toss. Straight and level, she went out about 30 yards, and I started a slow left turn. She banked slightly through the turn and dropped to about three feet on the return leg. She was sinking, but very slowly. She tracked straight toward me, and with a bit of a flare at the end, jumped straight up into my hands. My first ever unpowered hand toss/hand catch. If I can borrow a tag line from George Peppard on the A-Team, “I love it when a plan comes together!” I just hope all of this translates into good thermal performance.

I’m still working on getting some pictures and video together. Maybe soon.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 10:01 PM
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Vancouver, Canada
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Thanks guys.
I managed to find an archery store, the only one in town.
They had lots of arrows but were reluctant to ship to the US. The woman in charge told me to choose and I found that there were grades of stiffness in the carbon. i got the stiffest one. Now to install it.
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Old Oct 26, 2012, 12:41 AM
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 11:11 AM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
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Nice video, Alan. It looks like the stubby idea is a success for sure. I also enjoy watching ground-based video more than on-board ones. That way you actually get to see the plane fly. I would rather watch the plane fly than look at scenery.

On-board video does have it's place, but it really needs a steady pilot and a quality camera to be really good.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 12:25 PM
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Hi, I bought a Radian Pro and have the winter to set it up.

Ailerons and flaps: They're flexi-flyers and the tape hinges aren't well done. Anyone installed balsa replacements? A strip of 3.0 x 0.5 CF strip on the (3mm thick) trailing edges at minimum?

Decalage on this fuselage is zero but clearly the fuselage needs to be re-inforced. Definitely also a flexi-flyer.

This is my first sailplane but I'm not new to "foamies". The stiffening, declalage, etc are sop while building.

The "stubby" mod looks slick. But it also seems stiffening the rudder (fiberglass?) and replacing the horiz stabilizer/elev might be in order? I hate to add any weight but sometimes the gains in stiffness justify it.

There's definitely more but this seems like a start.

Thx, Tom
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 02:15 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
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Originally Posted by t.edwards View Post
Hi, I bought a Radian Pro and have the winter to set it up.
Don't wait for spring to fly it. Flying in winter is great and the landings are super soft. Here are some links to some mods. I did them on the Radian and the Radian Pro. The first thing to do (no picture) is replace the stock wing spar with a CF tube.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=7896
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=12370
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=12837

Also Radio.Active has a great stash of mod pictures.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 04:19 PM
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 12:12 AM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
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Hey Jov, got snow? Nakista ( 1988 Calgary Olympic site for all ya non-Canjens ) was going to open this weekend . Stuff we got in the last few days will be all melted by Halloween..
Yes we got snow but it's kind of a dirty word around here right now. On Tuesday a friend of mine was killed in an avalanche. Actually, both of the people involved in the avalanche were close friends and people I have worked and played with for years. One survived and one did not. Snow can be beautiful and ugly at the same time.

As far as decalage goes, I am wondering if the answer might be "in the pudding". It's pretty easy to measure the angle on the standard Radian but the Radian Pro is more difficult. The washout of the wings makes any comparison to the HZ stabilizer simply a judgement call. If you compare the stab to the root of the wing, there is a big difference, but compared to the wing tips, the difference is nil.

If you played around with the CG and got it to where you want, and the plane flies just the way you hoped it would, and the dive test was as it should be, and there was little or no elevator trim required, would that indicate the decalage was good even though you didn't have any scientific method of measuring it?
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 01:43 AM
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 10:48 AM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
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The ironic thing is that it was supposed to be me who was there that day. A couple of weeks ago the other fellow who survived, and I, were playing tennis and making plans for the upcoming survey job. While we were playing, I twisted my ankle, and so Pat had to go in my place.

That's a good funny story about trying to fix the warp. My Radian Pro wouldn't fly straight no matter how much trim I applied and after eyeballing it from every angle, there was an obvious difference between the two wings. The difference was in the inner section where the washout twist is built in. One was twisted way more than the other. That resulted in a few degrees of difference in the attack angle of the outer section of the two wings.

I tried hot water but it just wasn't enough to work it's way into the thick piece of foam, so I came up with an alternate method. It worked, and now both wings are the same and it flies straight. Maybe this method might be useful to someone else trying to bend a thick piece of foam.
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