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Old Jul 31, 2012, 06:33 AM
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Indianapolis, IN
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Nevermind, I was using the instructions on the first post and the drilling isn't shown.
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 07:24 AM
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STLAV8R's Avatar
United States, MO, St Louis
Joined Jan 2009
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Originally Posted by Twisted Realm View Post
Just a heads up on the motor repairs, we will be shipping the first batch of repaired motors back to customers tomorrow. Thank you for returning them for repair.
Cool. Can't wait to get mine back.
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 02:08 PM
Diverted by planks
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South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
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Originally Posted by IndyMatt View Post
Got the plane yesterday and it looked great
...
Overall it is going together pretty easily.
Woot!

Yup, the only part of the build for me that was a little teechy is making sure the aileron rod between upper and lower wing gets done properly, with both surfaces even.

There seemed to be just no good way to do it, for me, other than turn on radio, be sure lower is level, then level the upper surface, hold the tiny rod end and carbon rod with fingers, tack it with CA, and then pry my fingers loose (lol), then hit it again with CA and kicker after insuring the parts are truly tacked at the exact proper length.
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 02:15 PM
Extremely Twisted
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United States, NH, Epping
Joined Oct 2005
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Originally Posted by IndyMatt View Post
Got the plane yesterday and it looked great, too good to be left alone! I have all major parts glued together, skipped the landing gear because I have a question. The screw that goes through the wheels should it be free spinning? I actually had to thread the screw through the hub, do I need to drill the hub out to let the wheel spin freely?

Overall it is going together pretty easily.
Yes, you will have to open up the hole in the wheels a little bit. Sorry about missing that! I added a note to the build instructions.

You can either put the screw through the gear leg and fiberglass wheel pant mount, put a nut on the screw to bind it to the leg, then put the wheel on, then glue the other nut to the end of the screw, or you can put both nuts towards the gear leg and so the screw head keeps the wheel from coming off. The first method is easier to install; the second method is more secure.
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 02:26 PM
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Indianapolis, IN
Joined Oct 2010
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Yeah I am thinking this will be tricky! There will be glued fingers on this one!

I am using the method you describe in the first post for gear, the screw head is used to keep the wheel on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
Woot!

Yup, the only part of the build for me that was a little teechy is making sure the aileron rod between upper and lower wing gets done properly, with both surfaces even.

There seemed to be just no good way to do it, for me, other than turn on radio, be sure lower is level, then level the upper surface, hold the tiny rod end and carbon rod with fingers, tack it with CA, and then pry my fingers loose (lol), then hit it again with CA and kicker after insuring the parts are truly tacked at the exact proper length.
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 02:29 PM
Don't worry be happy :)
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Joined Sep 2001
642 Posts
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Originally Posted by Kissman View Post
This is a great motor with 2 cells and GWS DD 8x4 prop. I'm confident that it's the same motor as the Tiger Motor T2006 that I used in my Edge. Compared to the Turnigy 14T I used before the T2006 it is very powerful and efficent!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kissman View Post
...What about servos? I dont want use HXT9(5)00 series... is there any better alternative with good centering and smoth movements?
Im my first TH plane, The Edge, I used PowerHD 1600 elevator/rudder and a E-Max digital on aileron, worked great! On my new Sbach I use Futaba S3114 elevator/rudder and Hitec HS-65HB on ailerons and it is even better! Very crisp, poweful and accurate.
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 04:25 PM
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United States, OH, Youngstown
Joined Apr 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stark View Post
This is a great motor with 2 cells and GWS DD 8x4 prop. I'm confident that it's the same motor as the Tiger Motor T2006 that I used in my Edge. Compared to the Turnigy 14T I used before the T2006 it is very powerful and efficent!



Im my first TH plane, The Edge, I used PowerHD 1600 elevator/rudder and a E-Max digital on aileron, worked great! On my new Sbach I use Futaba S3114 elevator/rudder and Hitec HS-65HB on ailerons and it is even better! Very crisp, poweful and accurate.
Im wiyh ya on the last set up! Im using 3156 on ailerons and 1354's on the tail. I like the digital stuff!!!
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 06:21 PM
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United States, SC, Irmo
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Originally Posted by IndyMatt View Post
Yeah I am thinking this will be tricky! There will be glued fingers on this one!

I am using the method you describe in the first post for gear, the screw head is used to keep the wheel on.
I used two pieces of wood the exact size I needed and let them hold the upper wing up and in place. There a pic of it in this thread some where. I'll look for it. Page 53 post' #174
Tom
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 09:31 PM
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South Florida
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Originally Posted by carr52 View Post
I used two pieces of wood the exact size I needed and let them hold the upper wing up and in place. There a pic of it in this thread some where. I'll look for it. Page 53 post' #174
Tom
Good idea!

I started to use a piece of scotch tape to put the z bend and carbon together at the right relationship while I CA'ed it, but then I realized it would probably wick into the tape, and make it impossible to remove -- creating one big lumpy mess!

Since all the other 'build' operations on this plane are pretty direct, I guess having one fidgety thing is not too bad at all.

In retrospect, perhaps carefully using those two remaining heatshrink sleeves, but out of order from the other times we created the z bend ends, and just shrinking the rod end into place on the carbon rod without glue, leaving enough exposed carbon fiber rod and Z bend shank to make a CA bond later, would let it all get properly located, then glued without so much trouble.

You could even make small adjustments if needed by sliding the shank up and down gently inside the heat shrink as required, then adding the CA to finish the bond.

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Old Jul 31, 2012, 10:53 PM
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United States, SC, Irmo
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I made my inter links up before I installed them. I let the wood pieces hold the wings in place.
Tom
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Old Aug 01, 2012, 04:00 AM
Build em lite......
Joined Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
Good idea!

I started to use a piece of scotch tape to put the z bend and carbon together at the right relationship while I CA'ed it, but then I realized it would probably wick into the tape, and make it impossible to remove -- creating one big lumpy mess!

Since all the other 'build' operations on this plane are pretty direct, I guess having one fidgety thing is not too bad at all.

In retrospect, perhaps carefully using those two remaining heatshrink sleeves, but out of order from the other times we created the z bend ends, and just shrinking the rod end into place on the carbon rod without glue, leaving enough exposed carbon fiber rod and Z bend shank to make a CA bond later, would let it all get properly located, then glued without so much trouble.

You could even make small adjustments if needed by sliding the shank up and down gently inside the heat shrink as required, then adding the CA to finish the bond.

Not sure I understand why the build complicates the aileron interconnect rods. As previously suggested several times in this build thread, simplify the whole process and instead of using z bends on both ends of the rods, on one end shrink tube/CA a straight piece of piano wire....on the other end use the z bend. Then use a quick connect (same as on the other pushrods). There is absolutely no downside to using a quick connector on the aileron interconnect rods. Why complicate a very simple concept by using z bends on both ends? Using a quick connect is simple to install and easy to adjust.......
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Old Aug 01, 2012, 09:46 AM
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United States, CO, Denver
Joined Jun 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkhamlue View Post
Not sure I understand why the build complicates the aileron interconnect rods. As previously suggested several times in this build thread, simplify the whole process and instead of using z bends on both ends of the rods, on one end shrink tube/CA a straight piece of piano wire....on the other end use the z bend. Then use a quick connect (same as on the other pushrods). There is absolutely no downside to using a quick connector on the aileron interconnect rods. Why complicate a very simple concept by using z bends on both ends? Using a quick connect is simple to install and easy to adjust.......
I even when one step further and used quick connects on both ends with a carbon rod in-between, has been holding up fine for the past 332 flights.
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Old Aug 01, 2012, 10:58 AM
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Fort Worth
Joined Dec 2010
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I used cdee's idea on the quick connects on both my Pitts and it's working out great. Z-bend on the bottom with a quick connect on the top.
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Last edited by KamikazePilot; Aug 01, 2012 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Aug 01, 2012, 01:43 PM
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United States, FL, Winter Park
Joined May 2010
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Can you guys post a photo of the quick connect linkages you are using? Seems to me this might be an ideal option- as it could allow for a correction (small, however) if the wings weren't set up perfectly...
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Old Aug 01, 2012, 02:29 PM
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United States, CO, Denver
Joined Jun 2011
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Originally Posted by Luv3d View Post
Can you guys post a photo of the quick connect linkages you are using? Seems to me this might be an ideal option- as it could allow for a correction (small, however) if the wings weren't set up perfectly...
have a look at post #214 in this thread... there are several photos of the build, including some of the links used on the ailerons.
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cdee
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