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Old May 05, 2012, 06:48 PM
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morgantown, wv
Joined Mar 2004
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I got mine ordered this morning and it already shipped out. I will get it on monday. I also was going to wait to order the power system combo in a week but went ahead and just ordered it. It will probably not get shipped until monday and i will receive it on weds. That will work out alright because i am off work on weds. I hope to get it built and ready to fly that day.
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Old May 05, 2012, 07:05 PM
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STLAV8R's Avatar
United States, MO, St Louis
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e-gull View Post
Is the Beacon 527 better than Beacon Foam-Tac? The guys in the group I fly with use Foam-Tac so that is what I bought.
Was wondering the same thing...At Michaels they had 527 but didn't have Foam-Tac...
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Old May 05, 2012, 07:53 PM
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Burke, VA
Joined Sep 2009
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Originally Posted by STLAV8R View Post
Was wondering the same thing...At Michaels they had 527 but didn't have Foam-Tac...
I have used them both and they both work excellent, I would say that the 527 has a better consistency for gluing EPP but the odor is stronger and setup time is a little longer.
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Old May 05, 2012, 08:01 PM
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morgantown, wv
Joined Mar 2004
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Does anyone have an idea what the flight times should be with the 2s setup and the power system from twisted hobbys? Just kinda curious.
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Old May 05, 2012, 08:02 PM
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United States, CA, Hercules
Joined Dec 2011
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I don't know but i want to see a 3s video. This thing will be cracked out on 3s
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Old May 05, 2012, 08:39 PM
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United States, MO, St Louis
Joined Jan 2009
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Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy View Post
I have used them both and they both work excellent, I would say that the 527 has a better consistency for gluing EPP but the odor is stronger and setup time is a little longer.
Think I will just stick with the Welders then.
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Old May 05, 2012, 10:33 PM
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Burke, VA
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Originally Posted by STLAV8R View Post
Think I will just stick with the Welders then.
It's the best, I keep several tubes on hand at all times. I even use it to assemble balsa's. I use it as a filet on the wings and stab for added strength.
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Old May 05, 2012, 10:40 PM
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United States, TX, Portland
Joined Apr 2008
248 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravitycheat View Post
Also, this plane has so much side area that you will need some rudder to turn. The nose will stay high if you just bank and yank...this is good training and it will help you get used to using the rudder. If you are a newer pilot and you are having trouble making coordinated turns, you can do an aileron -> rudder mix of about 40%...so left aileron gives 40% left rudder, and right aileron gives 40% right rudder. This will help with your turns as you learn...put it on a switch though; it will really screw up harrier rolls if you try to fly those with the mix on!
It's a little like saying "It's a great boat but it dosen't float very good..this is good training for those trying to learn to swim".

The bipes i have flown have not needed rudder input to achieve a good turn and if they had, i would have landed and looked for a cause.

Can CG be adjusted to combat this? or is there any other way to eliminate the need for rudder input during a turn??[/QUOTE]

Anyone have a reason for this????? Is this a misunderstanding??? I would like to buy this as my first Biplane but i dont want to have to add mixing to get it to turn. Thats just silly.
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Old May 05, 2012, 11:12 PM
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United States, NH, Epping
Joined Oct 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravitycheat View Post
Also, this plane has so much side area that you will need some rudder to turn. The nose will stay high if you just bank and yank...this is good training and it will help you get used to using the rudder. If you are a newer pilot and you are having trouble making coordinated turns, you can do an aileron -> rudder mix of about 40%...so left aileron gives 40% left rudder, and right aileron gives 40% right rudder. This will help with your turns as you learn...put it on a switch though; it will really screw up harrier rolls if you try to fly those with the mix on!
Most EPP planes keep the nose high in turns...someone who was learning with, I think, a Twisted Hobbys Edge programmed a mix for rudder to aileron and said it helped him greatly to get used to it.

If you are comfortable using the rudder in any capacity you will have no issues with this airplane.
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Old May 05, 2012, 11:34 PM
United States, CA, Santa Rosa
Joined Mar 2011
874 Posts
I put the fuse together tonight and installed the rudder and elevator servos and the trusses.

Goes together very nicely and squares right up.

The only suggestion I would offer is to install both sevos and rout the wires before glueing the trusses. The manual suggests routing the wire through the first hole in the truss and this build suggests that you trim the front of the truss for the wires to exit. Either way it will be much easier to sort out the servo wires before gluing the truss.

I like the look of the truss tapering into the fuse so I put my wires through the hole.
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Old May 06, 2012, 12:59 AM
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United States, CO, Denver
Joined Jun 2011
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The "Pitts" Build....

goes well... if you have built any of the other Crack Series planes you will notice that Twisted Hobbys is continually improving and really getting dialed in on the fine details to make things go together as easily as possible.

As an option to the above post, you can also leave the last 2 inches or so free of glue until the very end, makes for a very nice and clean radio install.
.
cdee
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Old May 06, 2012, 03:59 AM
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United Kingdom, Aviemore
Joined Feb 2005
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+1 on cdee's method, or even a combination of this and Cody's method, i.e. cut 2 inches off the tip and glue it back in place once your ready and have routed your cables and done a rough balance. This way you can adjust the position of your rx and esc to aid your balancing and getting the pack to sit in a suitable place. On the rest of the Crack series it was the Aileron servo we had to watch out for, on this I can imagine it's the extra wood bracing in the vert fuse.

PS had me all confused for a moment there cdee till I realised your pics had the Pitts, the Slick and the Yak
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Old May 06, 2012, 06:53 AM
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United States, NH, Epping
Joined Oct 2005
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Great ideas guys, that's a clean looking install on that Crack Yak.

One thing I found is that unless you are having issues getting max aileron throw (some radios won't drive the servos as far as others) there is no reason to use the outermost hole on the aileron arm. The inner holes give me all the throw I could want. So unless you are missing out on some throw with your ATV's maxed, use the inner holes and you'll get better resolution and power from your aileron servo.
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Old May 06, 2012, 08:12 AM
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USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwojcik View Post
Also, this plane has so much side area that you will need some rudder to turn. The nose will stay high if you just bank and yank...this is good training and it will help you get used to using the rudder. If you are a newer pilot and you are having trouble making coordinated turns, you can do an aileron -> rudder mix of about 40%...so left aileron gives 40% left rudder, and right aileron gives 40% right rudder. This will help with your turns as you learn...put it on a switch though; it will really screw up harrier rolls if you try to fly those with the mix on!
Guess i'll wait and see then what everyone thinks of it's flying characteristics. ANyone shoot any video yet??
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Old May 06, 2012, 08:47 AM
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United States, FL
Joined Aug 2008
4,214 Posts
GC, This one is much different than our last bipe which needed mixing for ke control. We took our time tweaking the Pitts and removed many bad flight characteristics associated with biplanes. No mixing on mine, do not feel its needed. Biggest noticeable tweaking for KE control would be the amount of expo on the rudder, yup thats about it. Its easily becoming my favorite TW model I'm flying to date you'd be surprised to say the least. Have a stronge feeling others will enjoy just the same.
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