Rich thanks for the suggestion (above in #30) . This method seems reasonable and tedious,but then what Isn't?Even life can be tedious(unless you throw a little gasoline into the fire of life)
Seriously,I am considering that method.
However there is something no one has suggested.
If succesfull,I will "show & tell" a method presently under test.What fits me is that this method is tedious and UNREASONABLE .
Since being accused as tedious & unreasonable,I may follow that avenue
"FILM AT ELEVEN" (soon)

OBW

We want some more pic's!

Originally Posted by Kmot

We want some more pic's!

Of what? Me,a tree,and a chainsaw? (see #29 above)

You git'n a little testy and impatientTom? Ya git that way sometimes when the pain killers wear off.
OK, pics tonight or Sat.at the latest.

OBW

I just get no sympathy

I hope to put more on tonight since I will be sheeting the hull during the Phillies game. Go Phillies.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

While watching the Phillies win over St. Louis last night, I fit the top side skins to the framework. This particular balsa seemed unusually resistant to the required bending three ways. It was necessary for me to wet the outside of the skins the second time before the balsa seemed to give enough.
Today I will give it a little more drying time (water), then glue the skins permanently.

OBW

That's more like it!

Thanks OBW. Say, I like those pins with the ball ends. Looks like they may be more comfortable to push in than the "T-pin" type?

Originally Posted by Kmot

That's more like it!

Thanks OBW. Say, I like those pins with the ball ends. Looks like they may be more comfortable to push in than the "T-pin" type?

Yes , try them , (JOANN FABRICS) stores all over the US &Canada. Not only more comfortable but,you do not have to "orient"the head as you pick them up or place them. That's a small point but, I think, easier.

OBW

PS Upper side skins are cemented,should have pics up mon. with pins & clamps removed.

Originally Posted by oldbilgewater

While watching the Phillies win over St. Louis last night

And we took it right back.

Originally Posted by green-boat

And we took it right back.

And you did it quite well, I might add.

OBW

Originally Posted by Kmot

That's more like it!

Thanks OBW. Say, I like those pins with the ball ends. Looks like they may be more comfortable to push in than the "T-pin" type?

Just be careful when you push them in, i tried several where the ball splitted and i ended up with the other end of the pin in my now bleeding finger

Originally Posted by Sharky1dk

Just be careful when you push them in, i tried several where the ball splitted and i ended up with the other end of the pin in my now bleeding finger

You are right but,don't tell the GOVERNMENT,they will make them illegal.
Actually,I like to put them in with a needle nose pliers. When I take them out I turn the ball (this breaks the glue off the pin) then pull it out.

OBW

Both sides sheets have been cemented in place, and one plank has been added.
The rest of the side must be planked . Last the bottom sheet's will be cemented in place, then the bottom planks will be done.

It's looking good obw. Do you have some Bondo on there already?

As for the ball pins, OUCH! Yeah I can see how that would be a pain, lol.

I have some Midwest pins that have big red knobs on them:

Midwest Products Hobby & Craft Grip Pins

Okay HAWKEYE, you caught me.
When I built this identical kit 50 years ago, I learned quickly(and to suit my personality) to correct certain inequities caused by diecutting error etc. I found, to correct errors or problems early, was much less distracting for me.
Using red Bondo, is like dropping a half cup of coffee on a white carpet. It ain't much, but it sure do make a mess.
I hope to finish the side planking, today.

OBW

Coming along just fine OBW. Glad to see that you will apply the diagonal planks at the bow rather than trying to sheet the whole side. The planks work much better. One problem that I found with my 63 was at the transome. A leak developed at the lower right hand corner after a few runs in the water. I sealed the leak with epoxy which worked fine but I would suggest paying particular attention to that area when gluing on the sheeting. Put a bead of glue along the seam on the inside. The transome is built so that you can't get into it after the model is complete so you need to do this before you close it up. If I built another of these models I would coat the inside of the transome area with epoxy liberally before I put the top deck on. Pete