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Old May 09, 2012, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craig_c View Post
Yep! He's usin' AMBROID's alright!!! I'd recognize those orange lines anywhere - the man's a purest, lol!!

By the way, OBW, if you haven't seen it already, be sure to check out ClassicBoat's build thread of the 63
Yes, Barry's work on the classic boats build thread, is a masterpiece. Frankly, using the phrase"mere words cannot describe........." applies to his workmanship. It also tells a lot about the builder. My goal on this build is to concentrate on the outside detail, and that which is shown through the windows as most people would see this boat in real life.
If I live long enough to finish this 63', I plan to do a 1 inch to the foot example. When and if that one is done I will plan to do all the furnishings etc. Of course, this is all dependent on outliving the drying time of theAMBROID.
By the way, the AMBROID thing is just a scam. I put a drop of orange Easter egg dye in the CA. This whole project justifies me purchasing AMBROID by the case.. I've been sniffing this stuff all along, haven't been this high since I was 21

OBW
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Old May 12, 2012, 03:38 PM
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Plenty ihinking some progress

Old die cut kits can be a challenge. makes you go slow & think and eyeball.That's OK though,if it comes out good I'll take credit,if it's bad blame the kit.
OBW
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Old May 12, 2012, 03:57 PM
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Goodies!!!!!!!!!!

M.A.C.K. products. 2-5045 motors etc.

The service was excellent.I'll give the story later.THANKS,RICH!!!!!!!
OBW
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Old May 13, 2012, 08:21 AM
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Whoops.

I must apologize for yesterdays posts,(number 17). At the last minute I saw time was running out due to my busy() schedule.
Time to explain the pictures:
Today's picture shows the instructions for"the powered model".
Yesterday's #1 pickture shows the sheer and chine installation
#2 shows stern formers per instruction.
Since this will be built"powered"but with"scale"installation for rudders, prop, prop shaft location. Here is where deviation from the plans start.
#3 shows additional spacers for rudder stuffing box and shows rudder stuffing box to illustrate. This spacer also provides additional surface area for cementing the mahogany transom in place.
#4 shows 1. Hole for rudder linkage. 2. Scrap balsa to hold rudder stuffing box vertical. 3. Shows doubler on bulkhead(notice the square untrimmed edge on the left side of the picture)
.# 5. Stern doublers and bulkhead shims.

Do I have you confused yet? NO ? Well I am!!!!!!!!

OBW
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Last edited by oldbilgewater; May 13, 2012 at 08:23 AM. Reason: TYPO
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Old May 14, 2012, 09:19 AM
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Help me imboss my mahogony deck

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As you can see, the deck wood supplied in the original Sterling kit has three problems.(Color, grain, embossed planks)
I purchased 1/8 inch plywood to resolve two of the issues.(Color, and grain). This leaves me with the embossing problem.
I want to faithfully reproduce the deck planking pattern on the new plywood.
I am testing one method which looks promising. So, question: are there any suggestions on how to transfer sterling pattern to new plywood????
OBW
the new mahogany plywood is shown under the deck pieces in the two close-ups.

The plywood incidentaly is Marine ply. Gaboon Mahogany A.K.A. (Okoume)

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Last edited by oldbilgewater; May 18, 2012 at 09:31 AM. Reason: ADDITIONAL INFORMATION/Not three,two
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Old May 17, 2012, 05:53 PM
jayman
Joined May 2007
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Oldbilgewater, this is really impressive. I don't have any answers to your deck and I will be interested to see how this turns out.
Is this a plank on bulkhead model? Double planked?

Again, it looks fantastic.

Jay
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Old May 18, 2012, 09:21 AM
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hull construction

Jay
The hull is solid balsa in the bow's most vulnerable spot,aft of that single 5/32" single planking (balsa),the rest is 5/32" sheet.
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Old May 18, 2012, 11:37 AM
jayman
Joined May 2007
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oldbilgewater,

I was thinking about your embossing problem on the foredeck. Now I am no expert on this. My connie did not have teak decks. (Thank heavens.) But photos of contemporary connies show a parallel decking pattern, such as the photo of the 57' attached. That dosen't mean that the 63' used that pattern but it may have.

Parallel planking would be easier to reproduce or you could use basswood plank scored sheets from modelexpo-online.com.

I don't know if this is helpful. Just a thought.

Jay
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Old May 18, 2012, 11:46 AM
jayman
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Here is the photo that should have gone with the last post.
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Old May 18, 2012, 12:08 PM
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Thanks for the suggestion,I've had a few ,and I'm considering them all.
That deck is Niiiice.
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Old May 20, 2012, 05:51 PM
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Starting to planking/sheeting hull

As I was gatheing the materials I noticed that I was one 5/32 inch thick sheet short. As I am sure most of you know, 5/32 inch balsa, at least in my area, is unheard of. Obviously, butting a 1/8" sheet next to a 5/32" is not acceptable, at least not in my book. I enlisted the aid of my faithful assistant to research the problem.

No, not the assistant with the blue outfit and white beard, but the assistant with the manicured fingernails and the big oh never mind..... we ( read that she) found an outlet in, of all places, Loveland, Colorado. http://www.specializedbalsa.com/products2/index.php

Not wanting to push back the project any further, I ordered plenty. I will get started again as soon as the balsa arrives, in the meantime I will work on my deck problem.

OBW
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Old May 21, 2012, 04:27 PM
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disclaimer

I didn't type that, She did

OBW
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Last edited by oldbilgewater; May 22, 2012 at 08:25 AM. Reason: add comma and space
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Old May 23, 2012, 12:39 PM
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The balsa is in. Time to get back to the hull sheeting.

I've seen many comments from people on various forms complain about poor service from various suppliers. I have no doubt that they are in fact legitimate complaints. This is the second time that I have had to go to sources other than my local hobby shop. The first time was for Gaboon Mahogany marine plywood, and this time for balsa sheeting that was a size not available anywhere in my area. Both times I have been extremely satisfied with the promptness the courteous service from both suppliers. Certainly shipping costs are a factor as they were in this case. But in this case the next closest supplier for balsa wood (if they had it) would have been approximately 25 miles away. So, that would have been a 50 mile round trip. My shipping costs for the balsa wood was $17. Sure, that is a lot, but what would my car costs have been?
Since I started this build log I put the links for this balsa, and the Mahogany plywood so that anyone who struggles for an outlet ,be assured these two did well for me. No I don't own stock in either.
Yeh,yeh, I know, I've got to get to work so I can put pictures up later today or tomorrow I don't want to catch hell.

OBW
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Old May 24, 2012, 05:03 PM
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Now I have a better excuse than"the dog ate my homework"

We had a hellacious storm that closed our driveway.No,the tree did not just grow there.The wind re-located the tree to the driveway.
Thank GOD i'm only 71,a country boy and,own two chainsaws.
Howz that for an excuse for no boat pics??????
Well, gotta get back to it ,my chainsaws don't have headlights

But,still have time for a smile

OBW
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Old May 24, 2012, 06:37 PM
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OBW- I can tell you how I did the scribing of the planks on my trawler model which had mahogany veneer decking and also on my Sterling Chris Craft Corvette, which I used the mahogany ply that came in the kit.

First I bleached out the mahogany ply on the Sterling mahogany plywood, then I stained in with Minwax light oak stain. On my scratch built trawler yacht, I just sanded the mahogany veneer since I had good color in the wood. From here on in the procedure was the same for the scoring of the deck and the build up of the finish.

I built up the finish using two coats of Minwax Helmsman clear satin polyurethane, sanding lightly with 600 grit paper between coats. I then put on one coat of the Minwax clear satin polyurethane (not Helmsman) and lightly sanded with 600 grit paper.

Next I laid out the King plank and the surround or race way boards using a spruce batten pined to the deck. I then used a ball point pen to emboss and ink the caulk lines on the deck. I bought about two or three boxes of the bal point pens because you might only get three or four lines on the deck before the ball in the pen gets destroyed.

If you shave the spruce batten down to the width of the planks you want on the deck, you can proceed to start embossing the deck planks with the spruce batten pinned down to the deck. Once all the deck has been embossed, I proceeded to build up the finish on the deck with the clear Minwax satin finish, lightly sanding in between coats, until I had four or five coats of the poly over the embossing. I then wet sanded with the 600 grit wet/dry sand paper and put on one final coat of the clear Minwax Poly. If you wish you can spray the last coat, but I use a brush.

Oh by the way, the pin holes in the deck will look like the deck had bungs in the screw holes for added effect.
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