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Old Jun 13, 2012, 07:44 AM
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Rmay's Avatar
Louisiana
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That kind of detail and attention to detail makes a huge difference.

Years ago I used to look so forward to the next issue of Scale Ship Modeler just to see this kind of work. Now I get to see it every day here on the forum!
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 11:12 AM
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wagondriver42's Avatar
United States, NY, Rochester
Joined Jul 2011
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Every step of this build has amazed me at the level of craftmanship! absolutely superb!
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 03:45 PM
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United States, TX, La Porte
Joined Apr 2007
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Thanks very much guys it means a lot that you like what I have built. Since my plant closed and I am out of work after 35 years this project has helped me a lot. I always thought that after I retired I would spend my days working on model boats. That day came qiucker than I ever thought. I am enjoying not having the day to day responsibity of being a plant manager. My shop is my new office. Stay tuned and see what happens.
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 04:17 PM
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United States, TX, La Porte
Joined Apr 2007
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Day Cabin

Today I added a couple of small conduit holders to the top of the day cabin. The major project however was adding the rear turent. You see, I have a problem and it is one that has dogged me for years. I have always had trouble making an invisible seam between two adjacent parts. I know it can be done, I've seen it many times here on this site. There are some talented folks here that can make them invisible. Don't ask me how, but they can. The fitting of the turent I knew was going to be a problem. Dumas did not provide a very good basic fit of the parts. As you will see in the photos there is a rather large gap where the turent meets the side of the day cabin. I'm going to show what I've done so far in an effort to produce one of those invisible joints. I doubt it will be successful. But you never know. Anyway, take a look.
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 08:21 PM
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Louisiana
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Try the filler! It sands easy and should have no problem filling that gap.
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 09:05 PM
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United States, TX, La Porte
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I was not sure if it would work for this as the gap is larger. I am going to lay a first layer of Squadron White Putty. Let that set up then smooth over that with some of the glazing putty. Not sure it will be the combo that does the trick but we will see.
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Old Jun 13, 2012, 10:14 PM
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United States, CT, Wethersfield
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I use Bondo then white putty ,doesn't shrink
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 08:06 AM
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Rmay's Avatar
Louisiana
Joined Sep 2006
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Garvman here is a clip from one of the Masters in our hobby - Steve Neil using the red putty filling gaps close to that size.
SteveNeillsGarageThree.f4v (14 min 44 sec)
around time 9:15

The trouble with Bondo in a small gap like that is sanding without destroying the detail - IMHO.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 02:03 PM
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United States, TX, La Porte
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What we need is a filler that has the properties of both Bondo and Glazing Putty. Years ago there was something like that and it was two part like Bondo but sanded very easily to a fine powder. It was perfect but I have not seen it in many years. Thanks for the video, I always learn something from you guys.
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Old Jun 15, 2012, 06:51 PM
headed into the 9's
United States, PA, Springboro
Joined Apr 2011
119 Posts
Icing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravman View Post
What we need is a filler that has the properties of both Bondo and Glazing Putty. Years ago there was something like that and it was two part like Bondo but sanded very easily to a fine powder. It was perfect but I have not seen it in many years. Thanks for the video, I always learn something from you guys.
You can get what your looking for at NAPA or just about any place that sells auto body supplies. I use a product called ICING that is from NAPA. it isn't cheap though. 24oz tube will run you around $37. I do body work so I use it up with out much waste. For hobby work it will go bad before you use it up. I do not know if it is available in a smaller amount or not. This is a two part product and it does not shrink like that cheap red stuff. Now remember that red stuff will shrink over time and you will see all the sanding scratches. The thicker the red stuff the more it will shrink! I do not use it because I want my work to look good for many years.
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Old Jun 15, 2012, 07:21 PM
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United States, TX, La Porte
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Engine Room Hatch

I started to work on the engine room hatch. As you will see from the photos I made a mistake when I followed the Dumas instructions for building this cover. This is a "late war" boat and the hatch is for the early war boats. I did not snap to this until I had built the framework. Fortunately I noticed the error before I put the top of the hatch on the framework. You will notice a stain on the styrene sheet used for the top of the hatch. This piece of styrene was recovered from the remnants of Hurricane Ike. It was submerged in sea water right along with all the rest of my styrene stock. The good thing about plastic is that is not affected too badly by sea water.
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Old Jun 15, 2012, 09:16 PM
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United States, CT, Wethersfield
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I made my day cabin lift off so I could get at the switchs and battery connectons,its a pain in the butt pulling that whole center section out
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Old Jun 15, 2012, 09:37 PM
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United States, TX, La Porte
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I agree with that. I am going to do that too.
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Old Jun 16, 2012, 12:09 AM
Taking care of the pond.
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USA, CA, Fresno
Joined Apr 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malibu SS View Post
You can get what your looking for at NAPA or just about any place that sells auto body supplies. I use a product called ICING that is from NAPA. it isn't cheap though. 24oz tube will run you around $37. I do body work so I use it up with out much waste. For hobby work it will go bad before you use it up. I do not know if it is available in a smaller amount or not. This is a two part product and it does not shrink like that cheap red stuff. Now remember that red stuff will shrink over time and you will see all the sanding scratches. The thicker the red stuff the more it will shrink! I do not use it because I want my work to look good for many years.
$26.00 on ebay

http://compare.ebay.com/like/1608167..._lwgsi=y&cbt=y
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Old Jun 17, 2012, 05:01 PM
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United States, TX, La Porte
Joined Apr 2007
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Engine Hatch and Air Scoop

I enclosed the cutout in the rear turent and fitted the engine hatch to make sure I had proper clearance so that I could make the day cabin removable. There is a slight elevated portion of the deck between the engine hatch cover and the day cabin. Next step I decided to build the air scoop for the top of the engine hatch. I found that there was a problem with the molded air scoop. This required a little bit of surgery to correct but no big deal.
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