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Old Jul 19, 2012, 09:56 PM
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United States, TX, La Porte
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Thanks very much Rmay but I would rather take a beating than pick up a soldering iron. I know the only way to master something is to keep trying and learning. I just have to get the learning done and this boat is going to give me that chance. I am much more at ease with wood and plastic.
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 08:45 PM
1/2 a bubble off
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United States, NY, Schenectady
Joined Mar 2011
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Nice job on the wheel.

I like your use of the drill press as a lathe.
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 10:23 PM
If you cant find it Build it!
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NEAR ST. LOUIS ILL. SIDE
Joined Jan 2006
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Man Grav that wheel turned out great! Nice!!
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 11:14 AM
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United States, TX, La Porte
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Ships Wheel

I finished with the ships wheel at long last. It seems like I've been working on this for 6 months. I still have a little cleanup to do. I am waiting on some sanding tools to take care of this. It has to be done DELICATELY.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 12:00 PM
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Thanks Jeff, it came out ok at last. Not perfect but better than what Dumas offered.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 12:49 PM
Grumpa Tom
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Sep 2003
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Gravy,

If you do not have one yet, get yourself a Panavise or a clone of one. They are perfect for holding delicate items like this.

Next, for sanding I recommend getting cloth backed abrasive rolls. They come in a variety of grits, and you can use scissors to make a very narrow cut to start and then just rip off the rest and now you have a very thin piece of flexible sanding cloth that you can use like a shoe shine cloth to smooth out your soldered parts. You can find these for cheap at Harbor Freight.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 01:01 PM
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United States, TX, La Porte
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Thanks Kmot I had not thought of using cloth backed sanding rolls. I do have a Panavise clone however and it would be a good idea to use it to hold the wheel. Thanks for the input.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 06:02 PM
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United States, ID, Rexburg
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My father in law has some sanding cloth (strips about a 1/4" wide) that he buys in a spool for jewelry making (smoothing the inside of rings, not sure where he gets it), but that would be the business for something like that wheel!
Foo
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 02:44 PM
Grumpa Tom
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Gravman, I wanted to add another point. If you get the cloth roll abrasives, use the finest grit you have. Because, you will be surprised how fast you can remove material when you use it like a shoe-shine cloth. So go easy at first, and stop to check your progress frequently.
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 03:57 PM
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Will do, Kmot. Easy does it.
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 05:08 PM
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Torpedos

I decided to work on something other than the day cabin or the chart house. I thought I would work on the torpedos from MBH.
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 06:14 PM
Submarines, etc.
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Arvada, Colorado
Joined May 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravman View Post
I decided to work on something other than the day cabin or the chart house. I thought I would work on the torpedos from MBH.


....The next step will be to come up with a way to cast this part and make it hollow to save weight but thick enough to carve the fastener indents.
three part mold.
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 06:49 PM
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Yep looks like that is what I am going to try. Those indents I have found out are not on the cast part. The connections are forward of the cast tail piece so this will allow me to make the cast thinner.
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 09:24 PM
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United States, TX, Cypress
Joined Jul 2012
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Slush casting is your easier route. What resin are you using? I have done alot of casting with plastics most being hollow. Using quick cure resin fill the mould halfway and roll it to cover all the surfaces keep moving it until you see the resin "flash" then turn it upside down to let the excess fill your pour channel and create a sprue. It takes some practice but is a very easy way to hollow cast. For strength before you demould the part you can fill it with expanding foam.
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