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Old Jan 09, 2013, 12:33 PM
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Hi,

did I get that right? MKS6125 all around? Elevator also?

thanks,

cyril
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 05:18 PM
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Yes Cyril, I believe the MKS DS6125 are the best solution for every surface..
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by sll914 View Post
Yes Cyril, I believe the MKS DS6125 are the best solution for every surface..
Thanks spencer!

looking so much forward on getting this awesome plane...


cheers,

Cyril
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 10:47 AM
Where is the inspiration
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Joined Feb 2006
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Not sure if this question has been covered, but what is the Fuz Construction?
2.4gig friendly?
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 11:43 AM
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Yes it is 2.4 compliant from 1" ahead of LE
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 01:54 PM
Where is the inspiration
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Cheers Spencer
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 08:48 PM
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But if the nose is full of lead, kinda gives you a small 2.4 friendly area. Same for most models
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 08:54 AM
More like crunchman....
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Perhaps use tungsten powder in lieu, Alex, & buy a bit more space?
Not too pricey bought via fleabay.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 09:33 AM
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There is room enough for lead, battery and 2.4 rx... I like to use a rx with (2) antennae so you can cheat them up partly beside the battery on opposite corners. I've been doing this with the Hitec Optima 9 and haven't had any range check issues on any of them. I think the best battery for allowing max antenna room is the 4cell 2500mah Eneloop square pack. Allows alot of battery capacity and still lots of room too. I'll remove the tray from my orange K2m and post that photo ASAP. In the mean time heres a photo of my light (green) one with a 5cell 2000 mah eneloop pack for the hitec servos.

If you range check and get poor results with this approach, then an alternative could be to use 1500 2/3A cells end to end and lay them in the wing saddle (yellow plane photo). This leaves the nose wide open.

If you have concerns, use as much solid lead as possible in conjunction with lead shot and epoxy. I usually use a 4oz-8oz torpedo trolling weight with a little hammering to shape it some more. First I put a small amount of shot and epoxy into the nose then drop the torpedo into it and tap the nose to seat it as far forward as possible. Then I fill the rest with lead shot and epoxy.

I do have some tungsten and tungsten powder but have not needed it. Actually wondering if the final density of tungsten powder and epoxy is any more than solid lead? Anybody ever checked?
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 09:46 AM
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Oh, and here is that photo I promised of Tony Fu's bearing kits. Really nice stuff!

One cool feature is his custom headless shoulder screw that allows the servo to be removed or installed without removing the screw from the servo. There are also ground flats on either side of the bearing to allow grip for pliers.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 10:00 AM
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United States, CA, Palo Alto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sll914 View Post
Actually wondering if the final density of tungsten powder and epoxy is any more than solid lead? Anybody ever checked?
I have tried it. I've never been able to get greater density with tungsten powder and epoxy, but maybe I'm not mixing it right.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 10:14 AM
More like crunchman....
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I have tried it. I've never been able to get greater density with tungsten powder and epoxy, but maybe I'm not mixing it right.
Finalising the build of a 26" span carbon mouldie a few days ago, found I needed the tungsten powder as there was insufficient nose volume for lead alone.
But I pour it in dry & compact it hard before adding a layer of lead shot onto which is dropped thickened epoxy to form a sealing skin.
Used the same method successfully before.

Though given the space Spencer has demonstrated is available on the K2M, it would appear to be of no benefit.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 10:15 AM
More like crunchman....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sll914 View Post
Oh, and here is that photo I promised of Tony Fu's bearing kits. Really nice stuff!

One cool feature is his custom headless shoulder screw that allows the servo* to be removed or installed without removing the screw from the servo. There are also ground flats on either side of the bearing to allow grip for pliers.

* arm ?

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Old Jan 13, 2013, 10:16 AM
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Heres the tray with the AA square pack for my orange K2m. This install uses a 6.5oz piece of removable noseweight on the stick that accounts for keeping the CG correct with the d-box empty vs. filled with lead shot. A better alternative I think would be to make all the noseweight fixed and correct the CG when the dbox is filled by adding a weight on a stick down the fuselage boom aft of the CG...
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
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* arm ?

OK, arm and / or servo...
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