Lab test report for HobbyPartz LEDs and Turnigy receiver controlled switch
I just took some current measurements for the Hobby Partz Leds.
The measurements were at three different voltages, as follows:
V1: 9.9 volts
V2: 11.4 volts
V3: 12.6 volts
The data I present here is in the following format:
Color: (V1 current, V2 current, V3 current) all in mA
Each color strip is about 120 LEDs, which works out to about two meters. The LEDs have an adhesive tape backing. They are organized with 1 resistor and 3 LEDs in series, that whole circuit in parallel with the next three LEDs, and so on. The strips can be cut, and there are solder contacts so that you can cut and organize your LEDs in patterns, in groups of three. But if you want straight lines, all you need to do is solder the connector to a battery.
Here is the data.
Green: 220, 503, 740
Blue: 300, 600, 820
Red: 500, 670, 800
White: 280, 540, 760
Purple: 300, 580, 810.
There are 40 groups of 3 LEDs, so dividing the above by 40 gives the worst case current per LED, assuming no voltage drop down the strip:
Green: 18.5 mA
Blue: 20.5 mA
Red: 20 mA
White: 19 mA
Purple: 20.25 mA
I also picked up two Turnigy Radio controlled switches from Hobby King, and tested it in the lab. Works great.
But they are sold out of these switches, which is too bad, because I only picked up two.
Anyway, just though I'd share this information.
By my conservative estimate (worst case current whole flight), with 10 meters of blue LEDs (about 600 blue LEDs), and a 5 minute flight, you'll consume about 342 additional mah from a 3S. To keep your night flights about the same as your day flights, an additional 400 mah capacity battery would keep your batteries safe.
Just a comment. I see some people are having trouble using the Turnigy RX switch. It does come with a wiring diagram. On my switch, the wiring diagram was correct, but it illustrated the label on the switch incorrectly. Don't go by the label...go by the way the wires come out of the switch.
With the jumper posts on your lower left, the receiver cable on your upper left, and your thick wires on the right, the bottom red wire goes to your battery+, and the top red wire goes to the power/+ of your LEDs ("load" in the diagram). Then you have to remember to connect the ground/- of your LEDs to the battery ground/-. This is for single battery operation. For dual battery operation, it is the same, except you need to connect the grounds of both batteries together.
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