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Old Apr 24, 2012, 07:15 PM
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United States, TX, Lewisville
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Dle 20cc setup

So I'm thinking of setting up a dle 20 on a u-can-do 60... My question is on a 60 size what kind of setup r y'all using... One battery two? What size and type... Thanks for any info
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 08:07 PM
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United States, NC, Faison
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What you ask is a loaded question. I am assuming that you have no gas engine experiance so if you do just skip over the stuff you already know.

1. Never use any metal to metal connections on your throttle set up. I like to use a Gold-N-Rod for my throttle and choke servos through the fire wall. ( RF NOISE = RADIO INTERFEARANCE)

2. I always use a choke servo. two reasons for this. One it can be used as a remote shut off incase of throttle servo or linkage failire, it does happen! second the carbs on alot of gas engines are on the back or have rear carb mounted engines and the choke is hard to get too. Also it eliminates another thing sticking out of the cowl.

3. Never use the ignition battery simotainiously for the reciever battery. I use a minimum of a 1500map 4.8 on all ignitions. If the ignition is rated for 6V or 7.4 the LIFE batteries from Hobico work real good. I also run LIFE packs on my rec. This set up will require two switches. I always install the IGN switch as far forward as possable and the reciver switch as far back as posible. ( again RF noise)

4. Try to mount the ignition box on the outside of the fuse like to the firewall if there is enough room. If there is no room on the firewall mout it all the way up front on the back of the fire wall. ( again RF noise)

5. The fuel tank will have to be plumbed with Tygon or gasoline fuel lines and a gas stopper will need to be installed. The vent line will need to routed to the bottom of the fuse and it does not need to be connected to the exhaust. The carb will do the pumping of the fuel for you. It is also recomended to solder a barb onto all and including the inteior of the brass or copper lines in the tank. Use a zip tie or fuel line clamp on all of the fuel line connections.

6. How to fill the tank? I like the Dubro fuel nozzles because it keeps the gas off of your hands. You will also need a hand pump rated for gas or glow. The H9 one works well and Dubro also has one. You can also use a TEE and a fuel dot.

7. The DLE 20 is a beam mount engine just like a glow engine so use the mount that comes with the ARF. Some people like to use an after market metal mount but I have never had a problem with the Glass Filled mounts and I think it reduces some of the vibrations. You may want to add an extro 1/4" lite ply to the back of the firewall and use through bolts and not blind nuts. LOCK TIGHT EVRYTHING!!! RED LOCKTIGHT!!

8. VENTING!! Gas engines get real hot!. Make sure that cowl has plenty of air coming in and 3 times the air going out. I like to cut out the bottom of the cowl and open up the front of it with additional vent holes.

9. Almost done.. Throw away those plastic clevises and get some metal ones. Some folks will disagree but... I have a H9 P47 with a DLE 20 on it. (AWESOME!!). Also has E-Flight electric retracts! Anyways the plastic clevis broke on the elevator clevis and she came down!! Luckly I was able to have vary controled crash and suffered vary little damage. I used the rudder and throttle managment for pitch and was able to level it out and used the tall grass to break the fall. I was lucky.. Get some metal clevises. The plastic horns are fine.

Well I hope this helps and feel free to ask any questions. I am sure I left something out. LOL

Bobby.....
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 08:25 PM
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Thanks for the info... I am mostly electric and nitro never messed with gas before... Im deciding between this and a profile plan like the ee60 which would take care of a lot of those problems...

I haven't decided if I want to go nitro or gas yet, if I went nitro u would get something like a mojo 40 or the smaller u can do with a os55... But I just have this gas bug and really want one
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 08:39 PM
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The DLE 20 is a good engine, They are a littl finiky to adjust. Start where the factory has preset the needles and when tuning only turn 1/16th at a time. I was trying to use the 1/8th turn method and got it so far out of whack that I had to go back to factroy settings and start all over. Remember to run it a little rich for the first gallon or so and lean it out when she starts to break in.

Also,,, a 3d plane to break in a gasser is not a good choice. You need to be gental with it til you get some run time on it so the ring will seat properly. 3D flying and hovering tends to not let this happen and can over heat the engine if not broke in. Be carefull..
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael88997 View Post
Thanks for the info... I am mostly electric and nitro never messed with gas before... Im deciding between this and a profile plan like the ee60 which would take care of a lot of those problems...

I haven't decided if I want to go nitro or gas yet, if I went nitro u would get something like a mojo 40 or the smaller u can do with a os55... But I just have this gas bug and really want one
I say go gas!!

I just wouldnt do it with a small 3D plane. Sig Four Star 120, Funtana 125 or H9 Pulse 125 would rock.

You want two power switches and two batterys. The ignion battery should be 4 cell 4.8v pack, a bigger battery just makes the ign work harder and it will use more mAh from the higher draw.

FUNTANA 125 WITH DLE 20 FLYING DAY (10 min 3 sec)
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 07:17 AM
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[QUOTE=ScooterInVegas;21427555]I say go gas!!

I just wouldnt do it with a small 3D plane. Sig Four Star 120, Funtana 125 or H9 Pulse 125 would rock.

Exactly.... Nice vide!
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 07:39 AM
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This is what I was looking at

NashBro 2010, EE60 with a DLE 20cc, 3D RC Airplane (10 min 25 sec)
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 11:30 AM
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[QUOTE=rjstrickjr;21430504]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterInVegas View Post
I say go gas!!

I just wouldnt do it with a small 3D plane. Sig Four Star 120, Funtana 125 or H9 Pulse 125 would rock.

Exactly.... Nice vide!
Agreed - especially the Pulse 125!

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Old Apr 26, 2012, 12:51 PM
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Thanks for all the info... I'm gonna break it In nice and slow flying no 3d... Hopefully with all of those steps and using dsmx I should have a good rx signal... I plan to run a tank or two trough on a cold day to gain some trust before flying... Is there a good running temp these are suppose to be or do I base tuning on sound and performance?
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael88997 View Post
Thanks for all the info... I'm gonna break it In nice and slow flying no 3d... Hopefully with all of those steps and using dsmx I should have a good rx signal... I plan to run a tank or two trough on a cold day to gain some trust before flying... Is there a good running temp these are suppose to be or do I base tuning on sound and performance?
I like to leave the cowl off for a ground run and try not to run it at max RPMs for to long. You will have to give it all she has for the tuning but keep it minimal. I would run it around 3000-4000 rpm's on the ground and bring it back to idle for minute or so before you shut it off. Also for the first couple of flights I leave the cowl off. This will insure no overheating due to high friction of the ring trying to get seated. It will take a few gallons for the ring to fully seat and then you will notice a slight power increas as all the compretion will then be applied to power stroke of the engine.

Make sure you do a range test before the first fight!!!! If you notice any flutter of anykind back up and look at your set up again and make sure the rec is as far from the ignition as possable (at least 12"). Also check for wires laying or overlaping onto other wires. This to can cause RF interfereance.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 05:21 PM
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Great post answered a lot of questions I never even thought about. I am building a Midwest Citabra planning on using a YS91AC. Though about a DLE or Mintor but, how do you deal with the extra length of the gas motor? The carb might could go thru the firewall but where would it get air from? Maybe the cowl is extended, let me know.
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 07:02 AM
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Stantley,

The carb will draw air through the fuse, You may have to make some relief holes somewhere usaly on the under side. If you choose not to cut it out for the carb, the carb should be at least 1/2" from the fire wall. Usaly I let the engine stick out a little further than it is suposed to and adjust the cowl the best you can. You will find that its not that bad and a much better choice than cutting out the fire wall.
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 12:32 PM
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you only need enough space from the firewall for the choke buuterfly valve to open completely and a large enough opening immediately behind that draw sufficient air. Its always a good idea to have a relief hole in the fuselage somewhere so that air pressure can be stable througout the airplane.

However by choice I never mount a gasser on an airframe that canot accomodate the length. Its indicative of being built for a smaller engine with less vibration and a lot less power. If the airframe can;t handle a 1.20 4 stroke then I put it down and walk away. The amount of reinforcing needed just spoils the flight characteristics trough increased weight.
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