New Products Flash Sale
Thread Tools
Old Apr 24, 2012, 07:15 PM
michael88997 is offline
Find More Posts by michael88997
Registered User
United States, TX, Lewisville
Joined Jan 2011
74 Posts
Discussion
Dle 20cc setup

So I'm thinking of setting up a dle 20 on a u-can-do 60... My question is on a 60 size what kind of setup r y'all using... One battery two? What size and type... Thanks for any info
michael88997 is offline Find More Posts by michael88997
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Apr 24, 2012, 08:07 PM
rjstrickjr is offline
Find More Posts by rjstrickjr
Registered User
rjstrickjr's Avatar
United States, NC, Faison
Joined Jan 2011
691 Posts
What you ask is a loaded question. I am assuming that you have no gas engine experiance so if you do just skip over the stuff you already know.

1. Never use any metal to metal connections on your throttle set up. I like to use a Gold-N-Rod for my throttle and choke servos through the fire wall. ( RF NOISE = RADIO INTERFEARANCE)

2. I always use a choke servo. two reasons for this. One it can be used as a remote shut off incase of throttle servo or linkage failire, it does happen! second the carbs on alot of gas engines are on the back or have rear carb mounted engines and the choke is hard to get too. Also it eliminates another thing sticking out of the cowl.

3. Never use the ignition battery simotainiously for the reciever battery. I use a minimum of a 1500map 4.8 on all ignitions. If the ignition is rated for 6V or 7.4 the LIFE batteries from Hobico work real good. I also run LIFE packs on my rec. This set up will require two switches. I always install the IGN switch as far forward as possable and the reciver switch as far back as posible. ( again RF noise)

4. Try to mount the ignition box on the outside of the fuse like to the firewall if there is enough room. If there is no room on the firewall mout it all the way up front on the back of the fire wall. ( again RF noise)

5. The fuel tank will have to be plumbed with Tygon or gasoline fuel lines and a gas stopper will need to be installed. The vent line will need to routed to the bottom of the fuse and it does not need to be connected to the exhaust. The carb will do the pumping of the fuel for you. It is also recomended to solder a barb onto all and including the inteior of the brass or copper lines in the tank. Use a zip tie or fuel line clamp on all of the fuel line connections.

6. How to fill the tank? I like the Dubro fuel nozzles because it keeps the gas off of your hands. You will also need a hand pump rated for gas or glow. The H9 one works well and Dubro also has one. You can also use a TEE and a fuel dot.

7. The DLE 20 is a beam mount engine just like a glow engine so use the mount that comes with the ARF. Some people like to use an after market metal mount but I have never had a problem with the Glass Filled mounts and I think it reduces some of the vibrations. You may want to add an extro 1/4" lite ply to the back of the firewall and use through bolts and not blind nuts. LOCK TIGHT EVRYTHING!!! RED LOCKTIGHT!!

8. VENTING!! Gas engines get real hot!. Make sure that cowl has plenty of air coming in and 3 times the air going out. I like to cut out the bottom of the cowl and open up the front of it with additional vent holes.

9. Almost done.. Throw away those plastic clevises and get some metal ones. Some folks will disagree but... I have a H9 P47 with a DLE 20 on it. (AWESOME!!). Also has E-Flight electric retracts! Anyways the plastic clevis broke on the elevator clevis and she came down!! Luckly I was able to have vary controled crash and suffered vary little damage. I used the rudder and throttle managment for pitch and was able to level it out and used the tall grass to break the fall. I was lucky.. Get some metal clevises. The plastic horns are fine.

Well I hope this helps and feel free to ask any questions. I am sure I left something out. LOL

Bobby.....
rjstrickjr is offline Find More Posts by rjstrickjr
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 24, 2012, 08:25 PM
michael88997 is offline
Find More Posts by michael88997
Registered User
United States, TX, Lewisville
Joined Jan 2011
74 Posts
Thanks for the info... I am mostly electric and nitro never messed with gas before... Im deciding between this and a profile plan like the ee60 which would take care of a lot of those problems...

I haven't decided if I want to go nitro or gas yet, if I went nitro u would get something like a mojo 40 or the smaller u can do with a os55... But I just have this gas bug and really want one
michael88997 is offline Find More Posts by michael88997
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 24, 2012, 08:39 PM
rjstrickjr is offline
Find More Posts by rjstrickjr
Registered User
rjstrickjr's Avatar
United States, NC, Faison
Joined Jan 2011
691 Posts
The DLE 20 is a good engine, They are a littl finiky to adjust. Start where the factory has preset the needles and when tuning only turn 1/16th at a time. I was trying to use the 1/8th turn method and got it so far out of whack that I had to go back to factroy settings and start all over. Remember to run it a little rich for the first gallon or so and lean it out when she starts to break in.

Also,,, a 3d plane to break in a gasser is not a good choice. You need to be gental with it til you get some run time on it so the ring will seat properly. 3D flying and hovering tends to not let this happen and can over heat the engine if not broke in. Be carefull..
rjstrickjr is offline Find More Posts by rjstrickjr
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 24, 2012, 09:04 PM
ScooterInVegas is offline
Find More Posts by ScooterInVegas
Village Idiot!
ScooterInVegas's Avatar
United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Apr 2011
1,932 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by michael88997 View Post
Thanks for the info... I am mostly electric and nitro never messed with gas before... Im deciding between this and a profile plan like the ee60 which would take care of a lot of those problems...

I haven't decided if I want to go nitro or gas yet, if I went nitro u would get something like a mojo 40 or the smaller u can do with a os55... But I just have this gas bug and really want one
I say go gas!!

I just wouldnt do it with a small 3D plane. Sig Four Star 120, Funtana 125 or H9 Pulse 125 would rock.

You want two power switches and two batterys. The ignion battery should be 4 cell 4.8v pack, a bigger battery just makes the ign work harder and it will use more mAh from the higher draw.

FUNTANA 125 WITH DLE 20 FLYING DAY (10 min 3 sec)
ScooterInVegas is offline Find More Posts by ScooterInVegas
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 25, 2012, 07:17 AM
rjstrickjr is offline
Find More Posts by rjstrickjr
Registered User
rjstrickjr's Avatar
United States, NC, Faison
Joined Jan 2011
691 Posts
[QUOTE=ScooterInVegas;21427555]I say go gas!!

I just wouldnt do it with a small 3D plane. Sig Four Star 120, Funtana 125 or H9 Pulse 125 would rock.

Exactly.... Nice vide!
rjstrickjr is offline Find More Posts by rjstrickjr
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 25, 2012, 07:39 AM
michael88997 is offline
Find More Posts by michael88997
Registered User
United States, TX, Lewisville
Joined Jan 2011
74 Posts
This is what I was looking at

NashBro 2010, EE60 with a DLE 20cc, 3D RC Airplane (10 min 25 sec)
michael88997 is offline Find More Posts by michael88997
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 25, 2012, 11:30 AM
grosbeak is offline
Find More Posts by grosbeak
Illegitimi non carborundum
grosbeak's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Mar 2011
1,750 Posts
[QUOTE=rjstrickjr;21430504]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterInVegas View Post
I say go gas!!

I just wouldnt do it with a small 3D plane. Sig Four Star 120, Funtana 125 or H9 Pulse 125 would rock.

Exactly.... Nice vide!
Agreed - especially the Pulse 125!

grosbeak is offline Find More Posts by grosbeak
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 26, 2012, 12:51 PM
michael88997 is offline
Find More Posts by michael88997
Registered User
United States, TX, Lewisville
Joined Jan 2011
74 Posts
Thanks for all the info... I'm gonna break it In nice and slow flying no 3d... Hopefully with all of those steps and using dsmx I should have a good rx signal... I plan to run a tank or two trough on a cold day to gain some trust before flying... Is there a good running temp these are suppose to be or do I base tuning on sound and performance?
michael88997 is offline Find More Posts by michael88997
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 26, 2012, 04:09 PM
rjstrickjr is offline
Find More Posts by rjstrickjr
Registered User
rjstrickjr's Avatar
United States, NC, Faison
Joined Jan 2011
691 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by michael88997 View Post
Thanks for all the info... I'm gonna break it In nice and slow flying no 3d... Hopefully with all of those steps and using dsmx I should have a good rx signal... I plan to run a tank or two trough on a cold day to gain some trust before flying... Is there a good running temp these are suppose to be or do I base tuning on sound and performance?
I like to leave the cowl off for a ground run and try not to run it at max RPMs for to long. You will have to give it all she has for the tuning but keep it minimal. I would run it around 3000-4000 rpm's on the ground and bring it back to idle for minute or so before you shut it off. Also for the first couple of flights I leave the cowl off. This will insure no overheating due to high friction of the ring trying to get seated. It will take a few gallons for the ring to fully seat and then you will notice a slight power increas as all the compretion will then be applied to power stroke of the engine.

Make sure you do a range test before the first fight!!!! If you notice any flutter of anykind back up and look at your set up again and make sure the rec is as far from the ignition as possable (at least 12"). Also check for wires laying or overlaping onto other wires. This to can cause RF interfereance.
rjstrickjr is offline Find More Posts by rjstrickjr
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 26, 2012, 05:21 PM
Petrie is online now
Find More Posts by Petrie
Registered User
United States, AR, Lockesburg
Joined Feb 2012
1,207 Posts
Great post answered a lot of questions I never even thought about. I am building a Midwest Citabra planning on using a YS91AC. Though about a DLE or Mintor but, how do you deal with the extra length of the gas motor? The carb might could go thru the firewall but where would it get air from? Maybe the cowl is extended, let me know.
Petrie is online now Find More Posts by Petrie
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 28, 2012, 07:02 AM
rjstrickjr is offline
Find More Posts by rjstrickjr
Registered User
rjstrickjr's Avatar
United States, NC, Faison
Joined Jan 2011
691 Posts
Stantley,

The carb will draw air through the fuse, You may have to make some relief holes somewhere usaly on the under side. If you choose not to cut it out for the carb, the carb should be at least 1/2" from the fire wall. Usaly I let the engine stick out a little further than it is suposed to and adjust the cowl the best you can. You will find that its not that bad and a much better choice than cutting out the fire wall.
rjstrickjr is offline Find More Posts by rjstrickjr
Reply With Quote
Old Apr 29, 2012, 12:32 PM
TimBle is offline
Find More Posts by TimBle
Registered User
South Africa, WC, Cape Town
Joined Dec 2009
1,406 Posts
you only need enough space from the firewall for the choke buuterfly valve to open completely and a large enough opening immediately behind that draw sufficient air. Its always a good idea to have a relief hole in the fuselage somewhere so that air pressure can be stable througout the airplane.

However by choice I never mount a gasser on an airframe that canot accomodate the length. Its indicative of being built for a smaller engine with less vibration and a lot less power. If the airframe can;t handle a 1.20 4 stroke then I put it down and walk away. The amount of reinforcing needed just spoils the flight characteristics trough increased weight.
TimBle is offline Find More Posts by TimBle
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2015, 08:04 PM
skubacb is offline
Find More Posts by skubacb
Registered User
skubacb's Avatar
Tucson, AZ
Joined Aug 2006
355 Posts
1. A choke servo is very optional and adds weight. Most of the time you can run a wire out some place on the cowl. Most of the time you will only use the choke for the first start of the day so it is not used much.

2. Do not worry about ignition noise if you are using 2.4 ghz system. It simply will not react to noise. Servos can react to noise if you have a loose ground. BTW with 2.4 NEVER use a 4.8V battery. You are too close to the reset voltage of the receiver.

3. Do only use one battery for both ignition and flight. But use only the tech-aero.net IBEC. I especially do not trust the Wike Mike. Used to be sold by TBM. Of 5 we tried not one was good. BTW the tech-aero IBEC also works as an ignition kill so you do not need anything extra. When I kill the engine I have it both kill the ignition and close the throttle at the same time.

4. Do use a REAL A123 battery (try hangtimes.com and read the FAQ about them there.) We are finding that these batteries will last at least 5 years. Our last check showed only a 90mah loss in capacity on a 5 year old battery last year. It still has 85% capacity. The A123's voltage is the same as a NiMh 6V. So use the A123 just as you would use any other 6V battery.

5. Venting. The three to one ratio is great to have. Just as important use a balsa panel inside the cowl so that air coming into the cowl must flow over the engine. This works great to keep you engine cool. Air flowing around and not over the engine is simply wasted so it does not matter what intake to outtake ration you use.

6. Tank. If I must use an original tank I use tygon. BTW make sure you get fuel line that is actually tygon. It will be marked on the line. Dubro "tygon" seems to get stiff much faster than the real stuff. A alternative is the Rotoflow tank. You need need to change the clunk line. I try to use these tanks in my scale aircraft were the tank is really buried. An alternative is Viton. Jury is still out how long this will go before getting stiff or going bad. Bottom line is check the clunk line at least once a year.

7. NEVER run a gas engine rich. Unburnt gas just takes some of the lube with it. They are not the same as Nitro! Easy to tune. First, get a tach. Adjust the high end to 100 rpm below the peak. This is just to make sure you are not running it lean. Bottom end. Start rich and adjust for a good transition from low to high rpm. That is it. Live near DA engines. They use Redline oil. Buy that and run it at the recommended ration right from the beginning. Do not run lawn boy or any of the other non-synthetics. The people that make these engines have learned that you get a stronger and longer running engine by starting with and staying with the synthetics

A friend and I have the tech-aero and A123 batteries in over 20 planes from 20cc to 100cc. In all of them we find that you will not notice the minor extra drain of the ignition. My 100cc planes are only using less than 500mah for four flights. My friend uses one 2500 mah battery and just moves it from plane to plane. My bats are buried to deep to do that on my Scale stuff.
skubacb is offline Find More Posts by skubacb
Last edited by skubacb; Mar 25, 2015 at 08:27 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2015, 08:10 PM
ahicks is online now
Find More Posts by ahicks
Registered User
United States, FL, Citrus Springs
Joined Aug 2008
1,786 Posts
Please note this post is 3 years old.
ahicks is online now Find More Posts by ahicks
Reply With Quote


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion dle 20cc and 4blade prop chaos2984 Engines 24 Feb 07, 2013 10:46 AM
Discussion DLE 20cc unclecrash Engines 8 Jul 01, 2012 01:39 PM
For Sale DLE 20cc jasono979 Aircraft - Fuel - Engines and Accessories (FS/W) 3 Sep 24, 2011 08:43 AM
Sold BRAND new DLE 20cc for sale bob418 Aircraft - Fuel - Engines and Accessories (FS/W) 0 Sep 16, 2011 05:24 PM
Discussion DLE 20cc VS DLE 30CC Performance/Weight mikes68charger Engines 6 Apr 21, 2011 11:23 AM