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Old May 15, 2012, 10:03 AM
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sneu's Avatar
United States, CA, San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murdnunoc View Post
Whoa, didn't know that Neu reports two phase. Good to know

Mega is the odd man--most all manufactures use the same method as we do.

Steve
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Old May 15, 2012, 10:10 AM
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Canada, SK, Prince Albert
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Thanks for weighing in Murdo and Steve!!!

Context - "GARBAGE for this application" ... "I guess EDF is EDF."

LIVE AND LEARN

Great stuff guys... this is what I wanted from this thread and hopefully the next guy won't make my mistake.

Next question.....where do I go from here? With my cooling situation (or lack of it) I am about 40mph and 1500watts short of the goal. For crying out loud...I thought a bigger plane would make 200 so much easier...been better off getting an F5D airframe would have made it easy with all the 28mm motors around.

The first thing I think I have to do is get weight out of the tail somehow and get the order of the components sort of standard ( motor, ESC, battery). I think the battery behind the motor is not helping the circulation of the air. Going to find a carbon rod today and make a new control rod and possibly pop the elevator servo out and go with a lighter servo.

Admittedly I have been spoiled by my cheap 400class bullets that I can make go really fast with $17 Turnigy heli motors and when they burn just buy new ones.

I don't think the 22/45's are going to work for me Murdo as I think they have a weird rectangular bolt pattern. I need a motor with some weight as well...lets say at least 400grams and it cannot be larger than 40mm. I want to run the 7x13's with lets say 7S or 8S max.

Steve - got a question for you. My motor wires are extremely long as the ESC is under the wing. Will this cause me any problems? AND What switching rate should be used with the motor that I have?

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Old May 15, 2012, 11:08 AM
Carbon fiber is our friend
Steve C's Avatar
United States, CA, Lodi
Joined Feb 2001
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Sorry you fried your motor. Looks like exactly the same thing that happened to the 600 motor I had.

I always keep an eye out for used Neu motors. I buy them even when I don't have use for them yet

Maybe the vertical fin needs a tweek to help with the trim problem. It's that or the wing is not straight. You may have to cut the trailing edge outside of the aileron and glue it in a new position like a trim tab. Maybe you can just cut the bottom and bend the top skin for this.

It's no problem to drill more holes for motor mounting, but I think Mega is what HET coppied, so I'd try something different.

Steve can chime in about the motor/esc stuff, but I've never had a problem from long motor wires. I'm sure you don't want them 5 feet long, but the problems all seem to come from long battery wires first. That's hard on the controller and we used to see them burn up a lot from that.
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Old May 15, 2012, 12:16 PM
310mph Kolibri T25 Swist
henke's Avatar
Sverige, Kronobergs Lšn, Ljungby
Joined Jan 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sneu View Post
Mega is the odd man--most all manufactures use the same method as we do.

Steve
Mega comes up with great solutions which really works well. It's a matter of reading and understanding the numbers ofcause. They do not use the outer caseing as a comman ground lead which I think is brilliant!
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Old May 15, 2012, 12:17 PM
310mph Kolibri T25 Swist
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Maybe worth unfrying the motor?! http://www.tuning.powerditto.de/
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Old May 15, 2012, 01:19 PM
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Steve C - The Fuz has problems from a faulty mold (what I was told by another Monster owner) who's Fuz is like mine. I like the trim tab idea might give that a go or install a tiny aluminum tab like a boat.

henke - I like the fixing idea! What is the home page for that repair service? I don't think I completely cooked it as it was still working when I brought it in and it still runs...but I know there had to be damage at 285F. A custom Mega is not out of the question.

I just wanted something quick "off of the shelf" so to speak and thought why not try one of those EDF motors and as I said before "Live and Learn."

RATS....found a NEU 1515/1Y at the LHS today that the owner said he would give me a killer deal on, but the kv on that motor (2200) is to high. Wish it was a 2Y!
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Old May 15, 2012, 09:43 PM
2012 NZ Speedcup - 231 MPH
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New Zealand, Tasman, Richmond
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I guess one consideration is how efficient is the setup? I.e. if you have 88% on a 3000 watt setup, you're going to have to get rid of ~360 watts in heat from inside your fuse. So cooling becomes paramount!
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Old May 16, 2012, 03:01 PM
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Touch and Go!

Two great flights today as the weather and wind were perfect

Went ahead and flew the motor that was overheated on 6S (285degrees). Wanted to see how it would respond after those kinda temps however, I backed it off to 5S.

Finally got the CG dialed in and measured it at 65mm to the leading edge. Put a new control rod in yesterday 4.5mm carbon that only weighs 12grams but still have the battery behind the motor then the ESC.

Trims are now dialed in however the twist in the FUZ is causing nearly 2mm of left aileron trim to fly straight at speed. With that kinda trim the launch is always fun as the plane wants to immediately bank left at slower speeds...but I am used to it now and bump the stick right as soon as it leaves my hand. At speed it settles down but I know the trim is slowing me down.

Wow am still getting used to landing this thing just doesn't want to slow down and on the second landing as it was sliding it hit a bump went one foot in the air and I hammered it...touch and gowish it had been on video.

During the flights (2) made three or four full throttle passes at between 106 and 108 amps...then a mixed bag of flying for flights that on a 3600mah gave me just over 5 minutes.

Upon landing after the first battery the motor temp was 235degrees and after the second battery 205 degrees. I have noticed no loss of filght power as of yet and the data logging has confirmed that the all motor functions at
5S have stayed the same.

Will keep a close eye on the rotor for demagnetizing...Thanks for the great info and tip MURDO!

I'm gonna run this thing till the Magic Smoke Puffs so we'll see. I don't care what anyone says...I got what I paid for with this one (Typhoon 650). When it dies I'll send it to Germany and get it rewound so it can take some serious abuse
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Old May 18, 2012, 12:04 PM
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AIR...or lack of it!

Spent my morning making some NACA ducts. BIG INRUNNERS need BIG air...hind sight being 20/20.

Going to try and get some air to exit at the front of the battery or just behind the motor, as I believe the battery AND everything else in the Fuz is blocking the air from escaping out the back of the plane.

Cut out the pattern then onto the ply. Cut the outlines of the ducts then pushed them down and glued them with med/CA. Sanded the backs down flush for more room in the Fuz and the ducts are done.

The fun part will be cutting the holes in the Fuz

It will be interesting to see how much lower I can get the motor temps with a heat sink (that I grinded down so it would fit) and the ducts

I have a new motor coming but will tell all about it when the box arrives. Also have a new Monster 1.1 coming and will build it on here.

Love the bigger plane in the air so much easier to see
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Old May 18, 2012, 03:44 PM
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Finishing ductwork.

After another coat of paint or so the inside ducts will be ready to glue in
Heat sink is done and ready to go in.
Man I hate waiting on motors...I might go down to the LHS and see how desperate he is to get rid of that 1515/1Y. I could run it on 4S for some pretty wicked numbers with the 7x13
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Old May 18, 2012, 05:18 PM
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Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia
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Arctic,
Is the purpose to be air intakes or exhausts?
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Last edited by Peter M; May 18, 2012 at 05:32 PM.
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Old May 18, 2012, 05:52 PM
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Peter M - Exhausts...the air is not getting out of this thing. Mine for some reason is not balancing with the battery under the wing. It is balancing with the battery behind the motor and the ESC under the wing. Between the battery and the Motor wires AIR just can't get by...I showed the plane to several guys at the field and one who has some racing background. We all thought to exhaust some air up near the front would greatly improve cooling of the motor. those ducts will get glued on the inside acting as SCOOPS but grabbing air that it past the motor.
I've got plenty of intake through the motor mount plate and the sides of the motor along with a Turbo Spinner.
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Old May 18, 2012, 10:34 PM
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Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia
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LOL! That explains it!

When I first saw the photos I thought you had mounted ACAN scoops rather than NACA ones!

NIce work BTW!
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Old May 19, 2012, 10:45 AM
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United States, CA, Lodi
Joined Feb 2001
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Wow, I can't believe the magnets are taking that kind of heat. If they do go bad though, you should make sure you can buy a new rotor before you spend anything on rewinding.

It's a shame the fuse is causing trim problems. It sounds like you're starting to have some fun otherwise

I researched NACA scoops quite a bit when I was doing my EDF BD-5. They were designed for inlets only and will have poor performance when used for an exit. Flow rates will be low and what comes out will cause drag. Plain looking rectangular, ramped exits work very well. You can also do a semi circle. Anything that offers the cooling air back to the slipstream at a low angle is good.

Sorry to give bad news. You did such a nice job on it
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Last edited by Steve C; May 19, 2012 at 10:54 AM.
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Old May 19, 2012, 11:26 AM
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Canada, SK, Prince Albert
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Reversed NACA

Here is why I did it:
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