I personally think that both the front and rear wing mounts have to be glued in with CA. Especially, if you epoxy the front mount in, in case of a bad landing, you will either rip out the middle front part of the wing with the two carbon sticks (difficult to repair) or you will rip out a big chunk of EPO coming with the mount (as bad as the first option).

I may repeat myself, but brittle CA coming off is much less prone to cause structural damage to such an important part/location.

Luckily (??), I still have that high grass to land on/in. I now permanently use flaperons with elevator up to get velocity out. I take a downwind leg far away, (beware of stalling on the last 180 degree curve) and try to flare her down the last 3-5 seconds. Maybe I'll put up a video of that.

That being said, my 3S 3000mah 20C are beginning to give out, getting warmer and warmer after each flight. So I have to stay easy on throttle and wait for the 3700mah Compacts...

I used the same technique, but my tx is cheap so no flaps. It takes forever to bleed off the speed! Switching to a 9x this weekend.

Originally Posted by jj604

For what it's worth I reglued my wing front attachment with UHU Por and it feels rock solid. Used it as a standard glue not contact mode and left it overnight to cure.

UHU Por and EPP do get along - and it seems to grip the plastic as well.

+1, Agree! Another semi-flexible, rather sticky adhesive is a Liquid Nails product available at Lowes, Home Depot, Wal-Mart, etc. I've used it to affix motor mounts with great success....and I will be re-gluing stuff on my Zephyr when it arrives.

Info and photo...http://www.lowes.com/pd_90834-12-LN-...t=liquid+nails

Originally Posted by dcame002

I used the same technique, but my tx is cheap so no flaps. It takes forever to bleed off the speed! Switching to a 9x this weekend.

Make your downwind leg farther away...

If you're coming in just a meter or 2 too high, you have to snake your way in, always with that ugly stall picture in your mind...

Todays third flight. If you make a long approach she glides in without any problem.

Denny's Zepher part 1 (4 min 21 sec)

Originally Posted by F4J Denny

Todays third flight. If you make a long approach she glides in without any problem.

http://youtu.be/gja_5y-6zTk

Hey that's right beside my house I recognize that hill! It's a landfill. I would love to bring my zephyr there and fly. Is there a club there?

Ordered this fan for my zephyr
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=22069

I wonder what the difference in thrust will be, if there is any.

Originally Posted by dcame002

Ordered this fan for my zephyr
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=22069

I wonder what the difference in thrust will be, if there is any.

Sure there will be thrust difference in return of 15 amps approx.

Originally Posted by F4J Denny

Todays third flight. If you make a long approach she glides in without any problem.

Nice landing. You made landing look as simple as a Bixler.

Mick

Originally Posted by dcame002

Hey that's right beside my house I recognize that hill! It's a landfill. I would love to bring my zephyr there and fly. Is there a club there?

The flying field is at Vista View Park, Davie, Florida. Yes, the club is called VistaViewFlyers. We fly off the top of the hill, nice grass runway. You can download an application from our web site, Vistaviewflyers.org or see me for one. Must have a AMA.

Originally Posted by pavcon

Sure there will be thrust difference in return of 15 amps approx.

+ or minus 15 amps? I assume plus 15 amps. Good thing I have an 80 amp esc now.
Do you know where I can find performance numbers specifically thrust, voltage, amps, and efflux data.

I'd still call myself a noob when it comes do EDF's

I have an idea for a mod but I wanted to get a few opinions before taking the hobby knife to the side of my Zephyr's fuselage. I don't think the integrity of the fuse would be compromised too badly considering the carbon bar and Glass fiber rods would still be intact. There would still be about 3/4 of the foam having not been cut. The whole point is just to put the Rx in a better spot.

I thought to cut a chunk out from the fuselage (outlined in RED) and make a cavity where I could place the Rx. I would take the removed piece and hollow it out just enough to fit the RX, then use clear tape to hold it back on. The BLUE dotted line would be where I'd cut a slot to put in another servo extension for the esc. The dotty YELLOW spot would be an area I'd try to hollow out and route the Rx antenne through. I'd also have to cut a hole clean through the fuse to pull the servo wires over form the other side which would be removing a bit more than 1/4 size piece out.

So dumb idea or could it be feasible? The only reason Im considering this is because I thought it might be a bit better than mounting the Rx almost right in between the esc and motor. This does seem it bit overly complicated so I may just mount it in the canopy like other people have been doing.

Thanks

Matt

Just check them when they arrive.

I got some 3S 3300 and a 4S 3700 Compact yesterday and the cell size is identical. That is the 4S 3700 is exactly 4/3 the thickness of the 3S 3300 and identical in width and length.

Running some more rigorous tests today on the CBA so I can have an argument with HK but the 3700 showed up as 3250 on the first discharge cycle on the FMA PL8 at 5Amps which is not even 1.5C rate. Same capacity as the 3S 3300s. It's a 4S 3300 for sure.

I'm betting they have put the wrong labels on the 3700 - deliberately or accidentally I'm not saying.

Just possible they did the same on other Compact 3700 batteries.

John

Originally Posted by Aender69

That being said, my 3S 3000mah 20C are beginning to give out, getting warmer and warmer after each flight. So I have to stay easy on throttle and wait for the 3700mah Compacts...

Originally Posted by bamaguy

+1, Agree! Another semi-flexible, rather sticky adhesive is a Liquid Nails product available at Lowes, Home Depot, Wal-Mart, etc. I've used it to affix motor mounts with great success....and I will be re-gluing stuff on my Zephyr when it arrives.

Info and photo...http://www.lowes.com/pd_90834-12-LN-...t=liquid+nails

The best glue by far for foamies is the white Gorilla glue. I thought that what every one used.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Incredibl...item4cff311b2b
http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Glue-5.../dp/B001L6CVS6
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/paint/a...ive-54286.html

You put the glue on one side, wet the other side with water and press together. The glue foams a bit which helps fill small voids.

It is best to wipe of the excess as it dries.

I've used it on the Radian and Radian Pro. I haven't had the opportunity to use it on the V70

Cheers,

Peter

Originally Posted by phomann

The best glue by far for foamies is the white Gorilla glue. I thought that what every one used.
You put the glue on one side, wet the other side with water and press together. The glue foams a bit which helps fill small voids.
Peter

+1 on the WHITE GG! Peter forgot to mention that it should be clamped (or taped) for 15 to 30 minutes while it is setting up (oozing) for best results. The original, brown colored GG had a much longer clamp time and expanded a lot more. You also want to use a VERY small bead of glue. I only use this GG and the Liquid Nails product that I mentioned earlier on all my EPO/EPP planes.