Fred-
On the website it states that the fuses are all carbon.
Not sure if this is due to change or not, would like it to, but if not, I like cats, then cats have whiskers...And so will the stork if I buy one.
If I buy one, I will be happy to report my findings from my average-ish skill set.

R,
Target

The statement on: http://www.heinrich.sk/ sounds a bit discouraging but as far as I know, around the Europe, nobody has operated Stork X with anything different than 2,4 GHz system. It is really OK with it, works perfectly AND all you need is to drill 2 holes in it and lead your receiver antennas out of the fuselage. Do not have your antennas inside !

Copy that, just like the older Supra's. I have one that I bought used, and it gets great reception with 3 antennas sticking out 31mm from the plane. (AR9300).
Its fine for me, and the nose will be stronger, I'm sure.

R,
Target

Originally Posted by Marko Gala

The statement on: http://www.heinrich.sk/ sounds a bit discouraging but as far as I know, around the Europe, nobody has operated Stork X with anything different than 2,4 GHz system. It is really OK with it, works perfectly AND all you need is to drill 2 holes in it and lead your receiver antennas out of the fuselage. Do not have your antennas inside !

Hello, Marko-
Where are you running your whiskers on your F3J Stork?
If you were to use a system with 3 or 4 whiskers, what exits do you recommend?
Pics of your install would be great if you have the time.

Thanks, Target

I use 2 standard 15 cm long Futaba FASST whiskers.
When drilling the holes into the fuse, try to avoid roving, but all in all, you really do not have a problem with stiffness with this one.
I am used to using small and short plastic tubes to lead the whiskers out of the fuse.

Thanks for the pics and info.
Drilling away from the roving to avoid weakening the fuse makes good sense to me.


R,
Target

Originally Posted by Marko Gala

I use 2 standard 15 cm long Futaba FASST whiskers.
When drilling the holes into the fuse, try to avoid roving, but all in all, you really do not have a problem with stiffness with this one.
I am used to using small and short plastic tubes to lead the whiskers out of the fuse.

Marko-
Again, thank for the pictures and taking the time to post them.
If you were to add one or two more antennas (spektrum system, 3 minimum, or 4 maximum possible), where would you recommend placing the satellites?

I have done a Supra with a satellite, and placed it straight down, aft of the wing, but I have to say that I don't favor this, and don't want to do it again (its too likely to be damaged pointed down, in my opinion).
Also, placing it there on the Stork will possibly cause problems with ballast tube placement and removal.
I'm deciding between aft of the wing straight up, and ahead of the canopy, straight up.
Any thoughts?

R,
Target

My advice no.1: better to use futaba FAAST system (just kidding) :-)
And no.2: If you want to continue using spektrum system... IMHO, place it ahead of the canopy, straight up.

Cheers

Number 1 isn't going to happen.....
Number two, did happen, however.
Thanks and I will let you know the results later today.

R,
Target

HI, guys

FWIW, I have an older Stork 2 Pro electric that I've flown many times with no issues - JR 12X DMS2 and AR7600 Rx, stuck in the fuse where the hole is for it, and the remote crammed in front of it. I liked it so much I bought a Stork 4 for TD and whatever, flying JR DSM2 with no issues, the satellite stuffed behind the servos. All whiskers are internal. Never a single glitch or problem, even with either of the Storks specks in the sky. I now have a Spektrum DS18 (mostly for my big scale ships) Tx and Rx to fly it and haven't had a chance yet but don't expect any problems. If I have any I'll be the first to scream, say so, and change radios. I'll never be so foolish as to say one radio is better than another, but I've just had none of the reported problems with DSM2. I also fly Aurora 9 and have had zero problems. I've also flown Kraft 71 and 73 with no problems either, but what does that matter.

Meanwhile, I think I may have to grab one of those cross tails...my experience with the Stork has been nothing but positive re. price, build, quality and performance. YMMV.

-bob

Bob-
I assume that your Stork 4 is 2.4 friendly with a kevlar nose?
The X-tail fuse is all carbon, canopy included.

I would like to get together and compare notes on tow hook and wing throws that you are using on the Stork 4.

R,
Target

Originally Posted by target

Bob-
I assume that your Stork 4 is 2.4 friendly with a kevlar nose?
The X-tail fuse is all carbon, canopy included.

I would like to get together and compare notes on tow hook and wing throws that you are using on the Stork 4.

R,
Target

You're correct, Kevlar nose. I realize that the F3J stresses are greater, but I question why that model would be fully carbon. I have yet so see a standard Stork fail on an F3J launch. You have a PM...

-bob

Originally Posted by bobthenuke

I realize that the F3J stresses are greater, but I question why that model would be fully carbon. I have yet so see a standard Stork fail on an F3J launch.

My answer is not limited to Stork, but keeping everything else the same, a stiffer wing launches higher, faster and with better control.

Also torsional stiffness is very important. Maybe especially so in Stork. When under tension, those rearward raked tips cause a huge torsional stress through the whole wing.

BTW I really admire how the new fuselage has given extra performance to this classic plane.

Originally Posted by Tuomo

My answer is not limited to Stork, but keeping everything else the same, a stiffer wing launches higher, faster and with better control.

Also torsional stiffness is very important. Maybe especially so in Stork. When under tension, those rearward raked tips cause a huge torsional stress through the whole wing.

BTW I really admire how the new fuselage has given extra performance to this classic plane.

I should've been more succinct...I was referring to the fuselage nose.

Originally Posted by bobthenuke

I should've been more succinct...I was referring to the fuselage nose.

I have seen complete noses breaking off in a hard ping on an F3B launch. While I have not seen this in F3J (the fuses are a bit bigger in diameter), it is still easier for a manufacturer to do a monolithic layup for the fuse (to get the layup stiff and light enough).

I personally always prefer a Kevlar or glass nose, even if that would mean a bit of extra weight by doing generous overlap of the layers.

Reto