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Old Apr 16, 2012, 06:57 PM
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United States, MI, Ann Arbor Charter Township
Joined Mar 2012
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Walkera CB180D Oil Leaking?!

OK I'm quite new at this and was greeted with yet another surprise with this heli.

For about my last 4 flights now I'm noticing what appears to be an actual oil
or grease leak of some sort out the top of the head and out one particular side.
There's been a pretty significant of fluid loss and showing up here.
Please see attached photo.
It's been a lot worse than this the first time or two.
I'm concerned it may be running out of something it needs to stay in good working order.

Do these things use some sort of sealed bearing that breaks and leaks when broken?

I've been spending a lot of time reading all about these things and have not yet come across anything on the topic of lubricating the head or bearings going bad and leaking fluid..

If anything I've read items about *NOT* applying oil or lube to these things as it
tends to gum up & attract & hold dirt in the moving parts.

Am I supposed to be cleaning out and re-lubing/oiling all the moving parts on these periodically or what?

Thanks for you insight and experince!!
Very much appreciated.

-Steve
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 08:09 PM
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Joined Aug 2003
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looks like ground aluminun paste ,tearing down for inspection and rebuild
would be good idea
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 10:04 PM
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United States, MI, Ann Arbor Charter Township
Joined Mar 2012
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Well it's not exactly time for a rebuild yet it's about 2 weeks old and has maybe 15 flights on it.

Aluminum paste? maybe a little aluminum mixed with whatever grease/oil they put in there.
I'm looking for suggestions on how to lube/oil and re-lube/oil after a rebuild.
What type(s) of oil is 'normally' used etc.
Forgot to directly ask that at first, so now I'm asking.

Anyhow much to my surprise I found absolutely NO bearings in the blade grips.
This thing is cheap. it's simply a bore (hole) in the aluminum and that goes on a stainless steel pin/shaft as you can see in the photo.

The aluminum blade grip appears to be sacrificial in this design.
I was sort of expecting a small bearing to be in there, but nope.

Cleaned it all out and re-packed with white lithium grease put it back together and applied
removable (blue) loc-tite thread lock to the screws that hold the aluminum parts together.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 10:17 PM
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It's pretty messed up. You need a new bushing and grip etc. There is aluminum everywhere.
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Last edited by eagle777; Apr 16, 2012 at 10:23 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 10:22 PM
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Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
21,463 Posts
Walkera uses soft aluminum on many models because people will buy them. They think it's better quality than plastic.They are wrong! You may notice Walkeras latest very durable models don't use any metal.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 10:46 PM
KoOl BrEeZe
Joined Feb 2012
597 Posts
Prolly just some excess that leaked out. Not really a big deal. These type of helis were not really built to last long. By that i mean 50 + flights error free. Yes i realize i may be the sour puss here. But it is what it is. I had a walkera cb180z back in the day. However white lithium grease is just fine. If not that try some tri-flow. **autozone** What i did not like about the cb180z is that they made the flybar weights a Lil to heavy. Its a heli you cant get to aggressive with in flight. Otherwise that weight will just pull your heli in for a slide into the ground.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiQuid*Xion View Post
Prolly just some excess that leaked out. Not really a big deal. These type of helis were not really built to last long. By that i mean 50 + flights error free. Yes i realize i may be the sour puss here. But it is what it is. I had a walkera cb180z back in the day. However white lithium grease is just fine. If not that try some tri-flow. **autozone** What i did not like about the cb180z is that they made the flybar weights a Lil to heavy. Its a heli you cant get to aggressive with in flight. Otherwise that weight will just pull your heli in for a slide into the ground.
I was looking at the top of the grip where the bushing may be coming through. But after cleaning and reassembly, it will probably fly well for some time. *Some time may vary
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 12:28 AM
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I'm soon to be cutting 1/2 the stock off those flybar weights and we'll see how that does!
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 08:15 AM
Cranky old fart
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Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8LBV View Post
I'm soon to be cutting 1/2 the stock off those flybar weights and we'll see how that does!
Please post how that goes. In theory, that should reduce the damping effect by quite a lot, but will considerably reduce stability. I'm curious how much of these effects is due to the weight and how much is due to the control coupling made possible by the 45 flybar.

Please note that the person suggesting this action has a CB180Z, which has a 3 axis gyro and your CB180D does not. The 3 axis gyro actually fights with the flybar, so defeating the function of the flybar makes a lot of sense. Designing a heli with a 45 flybar and a 3 axis gyro is about the dumbest thing Walkera has done.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 09:55 AM
KoOl BrEeZe
Joined Feb 2012
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My bad. I stand corrected. I had the 180z. NOT the 180d. It may not be a good idea to reduce your flybar weights. I dont know. Hope my mistake in models did not sway you .
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 11:06 AM
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Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8LBV View Post
Well it's not exactly time for a rebuild yet it's about 2 weeks old and has maybe 15 flights on it.

Aluminum paste? maybe a little aluminum mixed with whatever grease/oil they put in there.
I'm looking for suggestions on how to lube/oil and re-lube/oil after a rebuild.
What type(s) of oil is 'normally' used etc.
Forgot to directly ask that at first, so now I'm asking.

Anyhow much to my surprise I found absolutely NO bearings in the blade grips.
This thing is cheap. it's simply a bore (hole) in the aluminum and that goes on a stainless steel pin/shaft as you can see in the photo.

The aluminum blade grip appears to be sacrificial in this design.
I was sort of expecting a small bearing to be in there, but nope.

Cleaned it all out and re-packed with white lithium grease put it back together and applied
removable (blue) loc-tite thread lock to the screws that hold the aluminum parts together.
I had a CB180D that flew, and flew, and flew without any problems other than the ones I caused by crashing. The CB180D doesn't need any bearings in the grips; it's designed like a larger version of the CB100 and does not have enough head speed to require bearings in the grips. Personally, I would've just wiped off that oil residue and then gone out flying again. Now that you've lubed it all up, it should be very smooth. If any grease leaks out again, just wipe it off and keep on flying. Seriously, as long as it is flying good I would try not to worry about all these mechanical issues.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 11:50 AM
Cranky old fart
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Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
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The biggest problem I have observed with the various versions of the CB180 is it doesn't fly like many people expect it to fly. It's not a high performance heli. A modified ESky Lama V4 will out-perform it. It's a gentle flying beginner's heli. Most people learn what they can from it and move on. It's not worth spending a lot of time, money and effort on. It has a very limited performance range that won't teach you very much.

That being said, removing some of the weight from the flybar is still a viable option.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 11:57 AM
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For real, I bought the CB180D specifically for hovering and stick practice after I crashed my CP V400D02. A primary selling point for me was that the CB180D is said to be the easiest for a newbie to learn on. And it really is. But once my skills improved I became increasingly frustrated with the CB180D's inability to handle any kind of slight breeze whatsoever. I then started flying the CP V400D02 more often, and eventually sold my CB180D to another member of this board who just wanted to keep his fingers up to date while building his 450. I think the CB180D serves its designed purpose fabulously.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 01:29 PM
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United States, CA, Rancho Cordova
Joined Jan 2011
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I think the CB180D is a good heli for beginner also. Just have to know its limitations.
Great for hovering in the house or flying slowly(very slowly). The minute you try to bank a turn it will go into the ground. Just the way its designed. I had no problems with the motors burning out and liked the size compared to the SR120 or MSR.

Balr14 is right though. Its not a good design because the beginning pilot would not be able to progress into fff.

Still have it and fly it occasionally. Its fun but it is what it is. I'd go fly it right now except the wind is over 2mph
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Old Apr 18, 2012, 12:47 AM
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United States, MI, Ann Arbor Charter Township
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Yeah, I'm with all of you now.
It was a rude awakening for me.
You see, I jumped right to this from my first coaxial.
The thing that really got me is that this helicoter WILL fly very fast however it's pretty much
out of control and non recoverable once it's going 'very fast'.
So this design VERY easily can fly itself (or allow one to fly it) into non recoverable situations.

See the coaxial.. you could slam on it as hard as you wanted but as long as you knew how
to fly it you could usually fly out of whatever undesirable or odd situation you got it in.

I had recently modified my coaxial to go up to around 15Mph now instead of the stock 3Mph full forward and even in it's new unstable config I can be pretty rough on it and not lose control.

With the CB180 I'll quickly lose control (beyond recoverability) If I push the throttle and stick too far in any direction and get it moving 'too' fast.

It stays plenty in control if I carefully fly it around no faster than 10-15Mph and avoid the temptation to 'floor it' in any direction.

When I first got it I was just slamming on the gas and expecting it to be flyable at
these higher speeds, just like the fixed pitch helicopters in the simulator.
In the sim I was going much faster and taking much steeper banking turns with ease.

Getting on the 180d and having it not be even remotely as responsive and 'flyable'
as I had come to expect in the sim came as a rude surprise.

I'm doing very well now hovering the BeltCP V2 in 5-15mph winds.
Not done any real flying on it yet, or nose-in hovering on it yet.
Taking it slow.. but I did have a nice 11 minute straight 'flight' on it today without having
to set it down the whole time with wind gusts & all :-)
It's a completely different flying experience from the coaxial and the sim as well as the FP
by a long shot.
Never tried idle-up yet and won't even touch it until I can fly perfect parking lot circuits.
and have developed a much higher degree of comfort with it.
I'm also wondering (getting a little ahead here) about *when* to enter idle-up.. do you always do this way up in the air?
and then how do you 'exit' idle-up?
I don't think with mine you can simply land & switch it off..
Seems to have a software bug where it goes full postive pitch for a fraction of a second
when you switch idle-up OFF. (I noticed this bench testing and when I set up the helicoter).

wierd.

Now I'm concerned that switching it on OR off will cause me a crash.
This heli does not have a throttle-hold selection.
So I probably won't be practicing auto rotation landings anytime soon.

I do have my mid-stick set for zero degrees pitch so you'd think I could land in idle-up and go just below mid stick
and switch it off and be ok, but I get that gush of down burst (positive pitch) whenever I switch OFF idle-up when testing.

Guess I'm starting to drag this thread all over the place eh? :-)
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