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Old Oct 28, 2012, 08:58 AM
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Chuck,
For the Habu, spoilerons do the trick. No flaps needed. However, when I install retracts and go to 5S, I will go ahead and switch to flaps so I can still use my 6 channel Rx.

I will post my spoileron setup in a following post so you know the mix method and deflection amounts. They really work great for the Habu.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 09:04 AM
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United States, MO, Warrensburg
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The added benefit of adding flaps outweigh the negatives for a ROG setup in my opinion. There is a negligible amount of extra weight for two sub micro servos and a harness for adding flaps. Plus with the Habu 2 all the work is already done for You since the cutouts are already there and the flaps already cut. You will be able to land slower, take off in less distance and if you have never used them on a model, add to the learning experience of different aerodynamics through RC. If you plan on ROG, add the flaps, if you plan on hand launching and belly landing there is probably no need.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 09:32 AM
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Easy Spoileron Setup

Here is an easy way to setup spoilerons on the Habu 2. Jetnfast makes good points on using flaps, but for me, I fly off a nice grass field. I have plenty of take-off room, and landing with spoilerons is a piece of cake. I decided not to use the flaps because the spoilerons are so effective on the Habu. I am going to save the time, money, and effort and just do retracts. I have found that using the spoilerons teach you the same methods when using flaps on other planes:

You will need to remove the aileron "Y" and replace it with two 3" or 6" servo extensions. Plug the right aileron into the aileron port, and plug the left aileron into Aux1. Select "Flaperon" for your wing type, and use 25% takeoff, and 50% landing for your flap system. No elevator adjustment is necessary. Make sure the aileron deflection is UP on both sides when applying your flap switch and NOT DOWN.

Measured from the outboard side of the aileron (towards the wing tip) the first flap setting should give you 4mm up, and the second flap setting should be at about 8mm.

That's it!
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 10:33 AM
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Flight Report, Stock Setup

I am very pleased with the Habu 2!! After my first few flights, I checked the ESC temperature, and it ranged from 113-126 deg F. This is very good and not hot at all. It looks like this problem is solved from the first Habu.

The plane flies great, and it looks to be the same performance as the first Habu with stock equipment and fixed gear. It looks great in the sky, and I like this color scheme better when it is cloudy.

My CG came to 3.5", and that did seem to make the nose feel heavy. I needed 6 clicks of pitch-up elevator to trim. So I think the 4" CG per the manual would have been better. Since I will be doing the 5S battery mod, I will not add nose weight at this time because I will add the Pro 80 ESC mounted aft. But if I was leaving this plane stock, I would move the CG to 4".
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:21 PM
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United States, NE
Joined Sep 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tclaridge View Post
Here is an easy way to setup spoilerons on the Habu 2. Jetnfast makes good points on using flaps, but for me, I fly off a nice grass field. I have plenty of take-off room, and landing with spoilerons is a piece of cake. I decided not to use the flaps because the spoilerons are so effective on the Habu. I am going to save the time, money, and effort and just do retracts. I have found that using the spoilerons teach you the same methods when using flaps on other planes:

You will need to remove the aileron "Y" and replace it with two 3" or 6" servo extensions. Plug the right aileron into the aileron port, and plug the left aileron into Aux1. Select "Flaperon" for your wing type, and use 25% takeoff, and 50% landing for your flap system. No elevator adjustment is necessary. Make sure the aileron deflection is UP on both sides when applying your flap switch and NOT DOWN.

Measured from the outboard side of the aileron (towards the wing tip) the first flap setting should give you 4mm up, and the second flap setting should be at about 8mm.

That's it!
Good info. Just to be clear, when applying the flap switch, should the ailerons both go up towards the canopy, or down towards the landing gear? Also, do you have to set up any elevator with this configuration?

thanks
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 06:16 PM
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My 2 cents...

Oh, raising hand here...I know the answer...

Both ailerons go up in crow, flaps go down towards the landing gear.
I recall reading above that no elevator compensation was required.....
You might want to give that theory a go....
I am a glider kinda guy and usually we would mix in a bit of down elevator with our crow mixes....

I was wondering why they do not couple the flaps and ailerons to lessen the travel of the ailerons it would require more channels in the receiver and transmitter ?

Also would allow you to camber whole trailing edge for short take offs and help dial in the crow landings....

back to reading....

Good luck.

Alan
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 09:16 PM
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Terminator, your answers are correct, but I did not give settings for crow, just for spoilerons, and I did not see a need to mix any elevator. However, since I was flying with a nose heavy CG, I was pulling back on the stick a lot.

When I get a chance to fly after the hurricane, I will double check the trim using spoilerons and report back if any elevator should be mixed in.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 12:01 PM
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Canada, BC, Surrey
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Does anyone have Dx8 settings for Habu crow/ flap that they wouldn't mind sharing?
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 12:12 PM
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United States, NM, Clovis
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I would take those as well if someone has them. Thanks
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 06:59 PM
Crazy Pilot-gone insane...
United States, CT, Norwalk
Joined Nov 2009
121 Posts
Hi all,

I just finished upgrading to 5s and retracts and flaps. Everything seems to fit nicely .

Here is my question.

On 4s, people have had no issues with the pro esc's bec. I am using the turnigy tz85a esc with bec to power all electronics. This seems to test well with multiple cycles on the retracts and moving all the control surfaces randomly and erratically. I know flight loads will alter the amps being pulled on this esc, as well as not turning the motor on may have an effect.

http://www.hobbyking.com/mobile/view...dparentcat=455

This is the link to the esc.

I own the castle bec, and soldered it up, but removed it because of all the wiring mess. I also see that with the supplied RX I'd have to plug this into the Batt/bind port, which bothers me since I lost an airplane to an ar7000 that locked up with a similar config.

Thanks!

Best,

Chris
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 07:06 PM
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Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
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Originally Posted by harttvboy View Post
Hi all,

I just finished upgrading to 5s and retracts and flaps. Everything seems to fit nicely .

Here is my question.

On 4s, people have had no issues with the pro esc's bec. I am using the turnigy tz85a esc with bec to power all electronics. This seems to test well with multiple cycles on the retracts and moving all the control surfaces randomly and erratically. I know flight loads will alter the amps being pulled on this esc, as well as not turning the motor on may have an effect.

http://www.hobbyking.com/mobile/view...dparentcat=455

This is the link to the esc.

I own the castle bec, and soldered it up, but removed it because of all the wiring mess. I also see that with the supplied RX I'd have to plug this into the Batt/bind port, which bothers me since I lost an airplane to an ar7000 that locked up with a similar config.

Thanks!

Best,

Chris
Chris,
What is your question? I cannot find a question mark.
Bill
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 07:13 PM
Crazy Pilot-gone insane...
United States, CT, Norwalk
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Chris,
What is your question? I cannot find a question mark.
Bill
Good call Bill -

Is the BEC on the above linked esc enough juice for my electronics?

I could see no noticable brownouts taking place.

Thanks all!

Best,

Chris
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 07:18 PM
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Canton, Michigan USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harttvboy View Post
Good call Bill -

Is the BEC on the above linked esc enough juice for my electronics?

I could see no noticable brownouts taking place.

Thanks all!

Best,

Chris
Chris,

The specs show 5 amp BEC so in my mind you should rethink not using the CC 10 amp BEC and figure out a cleaner way of packaging it under the canopy. 6 servos and 3 servoless retracts is a lot of load especially one stalls. You really don't want to shut down your ESC.

Bill
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 07:40 PM
Crazy Pilot-gone insane...
United States, CT, Norwalk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Chris,

The specs show 5 amp BEC so in my mind you should rethink not using the CC 10 amp BEC and figure out a cleaner way of packaging it under the canopy. 6 servos and 3 servoless retracts is a lot of load especially one stalls. You really don't want to shut down your ESC.

Bill
Thanks Bill,

I'll make an inline adapter between my ESC and battery when I get power back - we got hit by Hurricane Sandy, and will most likely be without power for days .

This stinks - I mean really, not showering stinks LOL.

Thanks!

Best,

Chris
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 09:02 PM
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United States, NM, Clovis
Joined Oct 2011
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I own the castle bec, and soldered it up, but removed it because of all the wiring mess. I also see that with the supplied RX I'd have to plug this into the Batt/bind port, which bothers me since I lost an airplane to an ar7000 that locked up with a similar config.

Thanks!

Best,

Chris[/QUOTE]

Also,

You dont have to plug bec into batt/bind. You can y it into any of the other channels. I usually y it into throttle channel.
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