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Old Aug 25, 2012, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mugen4Lfe View Post
I'm seriously thinking of stepping up to a 5s. The added WEIGHT of retracts has not been the most thrilling "upgrade". During my thread searches, I've seen many have made the move to 5s and have reported no problems with the stock motor. Others have fried theirs. The BL15 3200kv is supposedly "rated" for only up to 4s. I guess I need to decide to take the plunge or not. Anyone want to talk me into or out of it?
The stock motor runs well on a 5S but I run mine such that I can get 4 min. 20 second flight times and land with 20% left in the 3300 pack. Of course the ESC is upgraded and it is always a good idea to add cooling.

If you are the type of EDF flyer that only has two positions on his throttle -- idle and wide open after takeoff, then you should stay with the 4S.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 10:07 AM
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Hey guys, I had been enjoying my Habu V2 but as of lately I've been getting some kind of problem;

The plane has the reccomended flaps and retracts installed and is otherwise completely stock with a 3600mAh 4s being used.
Probably my 6th flight now I have been experiencing power failure right after take off. First time the motor had pulsed after I got altitude and I thought I had a bad cell in lipo. The battery checked out ok but I got a crumpled Gonzo nose to show for it.
Second time was similar, brand new battery 3600mAh 30c 4s, moments after takeoff everything shuts down and it noses over into the ground busting up my repaired Gonzo nose right off this time.
These failures seem to coincide with full throttle, retracts and flaps operating at the same time. I suspect either the on/off switch that dangles inside the fuse or the stock esc's bec isn't capable of powering all the guts up. The batteries should be up to the task?!? Any help would be cool guys, I'm a little dissapointed right now.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by WhalleyB0Y View Post
Hey guys, I had been enjoying my Habu V2 but as of lately I've been getting some kind of problem;

The plane has the reccomended flaps and retracts installed and is otherwise completely stock with a 3600mAh 4s being used.
Probably my 6th flight now I have been experiencing power failure right after take off. First time the motor had pulsed after I got altitude and I thought I had a bad cell in lipo. The battery checked out ok but I got a crumpled Gonzo nose to show for it.
Second time was similar, brand new battery 3600mAh 30c 4s, moments after takeoff everything shuts down and it noses over into the ground busting up my repaired Gonzo nose right off this time.
These failures seem to coincide with full throttle, retracts and flaps operating at the same time. I suspect either the on/off switch that dangles inside the fuse or the stock esc's bec isn't capable of powering all the guts up. The batteries should be up to the task?!? Any help would be cool guys, I'm a little dissapointed right now.
Your problem reads like sagging Lipos or you accidentally set the ESC to 5 cells and it is cutting off your 4 cell pack. Do your hear 4 or 5 meets when arming the planes? If 5 beeps the ESC got programmed to 5 cell.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 11:46 AM
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Ok it must be sagging lipos... Ive never set or used 5s on this esc yet. It is the stock controller too and I don't think its capable of 5s? These lipos, Wild Scorpion 30c and brand new, how can I test the voltage sag and resistance?
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by WhalleyB0Y View Post
Ok it must be sagging lipos... Ive never set or used 5s on this esc yet. It is the stock controller too and I don't think its capable of 5s? These lipos, Wild Scorpion 30c and brand new, how can I test the voltage sag and resistance?
Hook up a watt meter and observe cell voltage under load. If it drops below 3.2 volts per cell it is a bad pack or suitable for non edf planes at best.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 12:22 PM
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Denmark, Nordjylland, Gistrup
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10-15 or E Flite 15-25 retracts?

Would it be smarter to use the 15-25 when I fly of off grass? Or do the 10-15 hold up okey?

Flemming
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 12:30 PM
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I think you should be fine with the 10-15.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by flemsus View Post
Would it be smarter to use the 15-25 when I fly of off grass? Or do the 10-15 hold up okey?

Flemming
I use the 10-15s and they've survived me so far.

AFAIK the only difference between the two is 3.0mm wire struts for the 10-15s and 3.5mm for the 15-25s.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 12:45 PM
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@whalleyBOY

I had problems with my V1. The power was cutting out. My RX would blink indicating a low voltage problem. It took me a bit to figure it out, but it turned out to be a faulty stock ESC. I upgraded to a Castle 75amp and never had a problem since.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Mugen4Lfe View Post
@whalleyBOY

I had problems with my V1. The power was cutting out. My RX would blink indicating a low voltage problem. It took me a bit to figure it out, but it turned out to be a faulty stock ESC. I upgraded to a Castle 75amp and never had a problem since.
That could very well be the problem but it is probably best to check those off brand packs to make sure they are up to the task.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
That could very well be the problem but it is probably best to check those off brand packs to make sure they are up to the task.
I agree. I'd check the voltage sag first, and if you don't find anything substantial there, jot down all the data (amps, watts, etc) and call up a rep at Horizon to see if they have any ideas. If the above efforts fail, sell your esc on here for $60, and buy a 75-80A for $75-80 bucks
Good luck!
Josh
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 01:36 PM
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Hey thanks guys, i will bench test these batteries right away with my watt meter. One thing at a time!
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 01:51 PM
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Lipos have a shelf life like fresh fruit, vegetables and milk. I bought a house brand pack at local hobby shop and measured the cell resistance and each cell was over 30 milliohms. I took it back with ESR meter and tested their entire stock of these house brand lipos. They all measured poorly but the prices while lower than Hyperion were not bargain basement prices. For those in Michigan who buy from Nankin Hobbies be wary of their "Chrome" house brand lipos. Some of my 4 year lipos had better cell resistance.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 02:34 PM
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Could also be something as simple as a cold solder joint.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Mugen4Lfe View Post
Could also be something as simple as a cold solder joint.
Doesn't that usually cause stuttering? Not sure, so that's a real question mark
Josh
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