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Old Aug 24, 2012, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
5S is do-able with just an ESC change, 6S will require a new: ESC, Fan, motor, housing, and overhauling of the battery tray area. I'd strongly recommend not doing the 6S setup unless you really know what you're doing.

5S is an easy effective upgrade with minimal investment and work. However you'll need batteries as well.

Landing video: all that runway and you landed in the grass!

-Brian
I'm the same when driving, if there's a pothole in the road ahead, I'll swerve several times before I eventually hit it!

Thanks for the 5S info, can you recommend an ESC and battery?
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Boro View Post
I'm the same when driving, if there's a pothole in the road ahead, I'll swerve several times before I eventually hit it!

Thanks for the 5S info, can you recommend an ESC and battery?
An 80 amp Hobbywing (they make them for Hobbyking) with switchmode BEC works well. Target Hobby in China sells them very reasonably priced. Batteries are your choice. Hobbyking Turnigy works fine if 35C or greater. Hobbypartz or Nitroplanes Sky lipo is OK and very reasonable. A 3300 fits the battery compartment if you do some carving and slide it rearward. It does get a bit nose heavy even with the rearward move of the battery. If possible, relocate the ESC to the air inlet for added cooling. That can help with balance and ESC cooling. There are numerous posts in this thread. LIke any power system, constant wide open can really raise battery and ESC temps. I fly in bursts of wide open and land at 4 min 20 seconds with 20% left in the pack. I invited a club member who flies 200 mph turbines to fly my 5S lipo powered Habu. His flying style was simple -- take off and plant the throttle at wide open for the duration of the flight. It's impressive to watch fly but I am picturing the lipo having a hear attack. He depleted the battery to 3% and warmed up the lipo and ESC much more than I do and landed 4 minutes and 10 seconds. Lipo was about 110 degrees F and the ESC was a little hotter. I could still park my finger on the ESC after his flight but it was hot. I also have air inlets aiming air at the ESC in a stock location.

Bill
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Boro View Post
I'm the same when driving, if there's a pothole in the road ahead, I'll swerve several times before I eventually hit it!

Thanks for the 5S info, can you recommend an ESC and battery?
I agree with most of what Prof said, though I'd use a Castle Ice 100 and Thunderpower or GensAce lipos definitely >35C. I have no experience with Sky so I cant comment, but Turnigy or nanopuffs probably wont last long in that extreme environment. ThunderPower 5S 3300 65C would be about the best choice I can think of.
regardless of which battery/ESC you chose I'd highly recommend moving the esc into the intake ducting. There are many pics in this and the V1 Habu thread on how to do it.

All that said I'd first get comfortable at flying it on 4S. It will be lighter and handle better. 5S adds a little bit of weight and a speed. Things happen faster and it will be advantageous to have a good feel for the plane before hopping it up.

-Brian
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
I agree with most of what Prof said, though I'd use a Castle Ice 100 and Thunderpower or GensAce lipos definitely >35C. I have no experience with Sky so I cant comment, but Turnigy or nanopuffs probably wont last long in that extreme environment. ThunderPower 5S 3300 65C would be about the best choice I can think of.
regardless of which battery/ESC you chose I'd highly recommend moving the esc into the intake ducting. There are many pics in this and the V1 Habu thread on how to do it.

All that said I'd first get comfortable at flying it on 4S. It will be lighter and handle better. 5S adds a little bit of weight and a speed. Things happen faster and it will be advantageous to have a good feel for the plane before hopping it up.

-Brian
Tit for tat. I agree with most of what Brian said.

Maybe a foundation issue is buy as good a battery as you can afford. 35C is minimum. And he's right, the Nanos will puff even in the highest C rating. I have a dozen of the Nanos and they tend to have one cell that ends up with increased internal resistance after about 20 cycles. I have had better luck with Turnigy lipos.

Gens Ace seem to be good based on reports I have seen here but they create stinkers as well.

Bottom line is the published "C" ratings are often marketing hype and not reality. If a 35 C 3300 mah is good for continuous operation it should have no problem deliving 65-70 amps because its C rating would mean it should be capable of delivering 115 amps continuously. If that's the case, how come they don't. It's because the mfg. and marketing people lie.

Start measuring individual cell and pack resistance. Its a better indicator of the health of lipo.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 10:04 AM
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I fly most of my planes on Overlander 25C LiPo batteries, but when I bought the Habu 2 my LHS recommended I use a 60C Overlanders. I don't know how a 60C Overlander compares with a 35C GensAce, but I would expect any 60C LiPo to maintain a higher voltage under load than a 35C, even if both are capable of delivering the same continuous current.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ulogix View Post
I fly most of my planes on Overlander 25C LiPo batteries, but when I bought the Habu 2 my LHS recommended I use a 60C Overlanders. I don't know how a 60C Overlander compares with a 35C GensAce, but I would expect any 60C LiPo to maintain a higher voltage under load than a 35C, even if both are capable of delivering the same continuous current.
It's all tied together -- volts and current. Low C rated pack sag more than higher C rated packs.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 10:22 AM
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Cheers guys. My current and only battery at the moment is this one >>> http://www.totemhobbies.co.uk/produc...o-battery.aspx

Running my Habu stock, should I be using a better (higher C) battery?

I've also just bought a HK-010 power analyzer, so currently getting to grips with what the different readings mean.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Boro View Post
Cheers guys. My current and only battery at the moment is this one >>> http://www.totemhobbies.co.uk/produc...o-battery.aspx

Running my Habu stock, should I be using a better (higher C) battery?

I've also just bought a HK-010 power analyzer, so currently getting to grips with what the different readings mean.
Does it get hot? Does it puff? How long can you fly it?

Too hot to touch, upgrade to higher C.

Puffed after flying, uprade to higher C.

Flight times less than 3.5 minutes, upgrade to a higher C.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 10:35 AM
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I'll check next time I fly. I've only flown it once at the moment. The battery was hot but not too hot to touch, not puffed and flew about 4-5mins I guess.

I'm going to be needing more batteries anyway, so would something like an Overlander Extreme 4S 3200mah 60C be a good move?
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 12:16 PM
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I'll check next time I fly. I've only flown it once at the moment. The battery was hot but not too hot to touch, not puffed and flew about 4-5mins I guess.

I'm going to be needing more batteries anyway, so would something like an Overlander Extreme 4S 3200mah 60C be a good move?
Yes, if it truly is a higher C rating. There is a tradeoff though, the higher C rated packs are heavier.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 01:09 PM
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Has anyone found retracts make it much harder to take off from grass?
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 01:34 PM
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I'd imagine the extra weight in the nose would be responsible for that. I would either adjust the nose gear for greater AoA or perhaps moving CG towards the rear.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Josef086 View Post
Has anyone found retracts make it much harder to take off from grass?
Two of my flying buddies have Habu 2s. (My new addiction is all their fault!)

One has the stock gear. He is able to take off from the grass, sometimes. He just hand-launches most of the time.

The other has retracts, and can't take off from our grass field without a headwind.

I have retracts, and I have no problem taking off from the same field. But I use takeoff flaps, and have 1-1/2 oz. of lead on the tailcone.

At some point I'll move the ESC aft and see if I can get rid of that lead, but for now I'm just enjoying flying the airplane.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 04:02 PM
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hey guys im looking at picking one of these up (bare airframe and doing my own components)
is there anything airframe wise that needs to be addressed or upgraded/beefed? or flat out thrown away and replaced?
will be a high powered setup.

i had also considered the hobbylobby Rebel/freewing Cobra, but was told this airframe was sleeker/faster. can any one conferm?

many thanks
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS View Post
hey guys im looking at picking one of these up (bare airframe and doing my own components)
is there anything airframe wise that needs to be addressed or upgraded/beefed? or flat out thrown away and replaced?
will be a high powered setup.

i had also considered the hobbylobby Rebel/freewing Cobra, but was told this airframe was sleeker/faster. can any one conferm?

many thanks
Stay with the Habu airframe. They are well designed and made. And, if you break it, all components are available.

If you plan on running the Habu 2 on anything bigger than a 4S you want to make room for the bigger lipo and should consider moving the ESC from in front of the battery and to the intake duct behind the battery. There are pictures of that modification.

Horizon shows the bare airframe on backorder. Anybody know where they can be purchased?
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Last edited by Prof100; Aug 24, 2012 at 05:54 PM.
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