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Old Aug 13, 2012, 10:51 AM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinrc View Post
I'm contemplating going to 6s using two 3s batteries.

What size batteries have you used? What flight times do you get with them?
To run 6S you'll need a new ESC, new motor, if you're removing it should get a new efflux RC or Tamjets housing and fan.

Don't get me wrong I've heard it flies great on these setups, but you're talking MAJOR surgery and basically a whole new power system.

5S is doable on the stock motor, I've heard people using 3000-3300mAh on 5S. Just be ready to add even more weight to that tailcone When you get your CC ESC I'd strongly suggest mounting it in the intake ducting like some of the pictures in this and the V1 thread show. You'll probably be able to remove most of that lead and keep the CG.

-Brian
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurtzz View Post
With the stock power setup, where is everybody mounting the ESC arming switch...hate to just let it flop around, could be expensive.

Kurtzz
I've never liked the idea of having a power switch on an esc. I've seen too many power switches fail on RC cars to trust them in a plane. To me, unplugging a flight pack isn't any harder than hitting a power switch. The switch is just another failure point. Might be worth eliminating it and just solder the wires together.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 12:06 PM
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Tampa, FL
Joined Apr 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen4Lfe View Post
I've never liked the idea of having a power switch on an esc. I've seen too many power switches fail on RC cars to trust them in a plane. To me, unplugging a flight pack isn't any harder than hitting a power switch. The switch is just another failure point. Might be worth eliminating it and just solder the wires together.
I just cut it off and put heat shrink over it...
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 12:48 PM
Happy Habu Hustler
Joined May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
To run 6S you'll need a new ESC, new motor, if you're removing it should get a new efflux RC or Tamjets housing and fan.
I know I'm in for a lot of new expensive stuff if^^when I do this.
Quote:
5S is doable on the stock motor, I've heard people using 3000-3300mAh on 5S.
Not interested in 5s. One of the considerations here is flexibility: I'd like to use the same batteries I use in the Extra 300 (or my future Corsair) to fly the Habu. That, and good 3s batteries are likely cheaper than good 5s or 6s.

Quote:
Just be ready to add even more weight to that tailcone When you get your CC ESC I'd strongly suggest mounting it in the intake ducting like some of the pictures in this and the V1 thread show. You'll probably be able to remove most of that lead and keep the CG.
That's why I've been involved in the ESC/CG discussions in both Habu threads.

The lead is a band-aid. It's on the tailcone to make it easier to remove when the time comes.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 03:49 PM
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I'm almost at the point of turning up at my LHS tomorrow who has one in stock.

I don't have any 4s batteries at all. Could someone recommend a relatively cheap battery or 3.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 04:19 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boro View Post
I'm almost at the point of turning up at my LHS tomorrow who has one in stock.

I don't have any 4s batteries at all. Could someone recommend a relatively cheap battery or 3.
The HobbyKing Turnigy packs work I hear. I personally don't recommend cheap packs in EDFs the power demand is just to high. GenAce, ThunderPower, and other High Quality packs are the way to go. 4S TP 3850 45C or TP3900 25C are what I use.

-Brian
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 04:52 PM
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Birmingham (UK)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boro View Post
I'm almost at the point of turning up at my LHS tomorrow who has one in stock.

I don't have any 4s batteries at all. Could someone recommend a relatively cheap battery or 3.
Overlander do 60C 4S batteries. Not cheap, but you really want a battery with minimal voltage drop at high loads. The higher the C rating, the lower the internal resistance of the battery, which means you get less voltage drop under load.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 05:12 PM
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United States, CA, Calabasas
Joined Apr 2010
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I've read quite a few stories about cheaper battery brands (sky lipo perhaps?) fudging the "C" rating quite a bit, especially on high C packs. Might want to do some research before plunking down extra bucks on those. That said, I've heard nothing but good things about Gens Ace 25c packs. I fly mine on a variety of packs, all of which work well.
Turnigy 20-30c 3000mAh
Stock eflite 30c 3200mAh
Josh
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 06:06 PM
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I don't know if this is true, but I've heard a lot of brands get their batteries from the same place and just put their name on it. Personally, I use Thunderpower lipos for the simple reason that they are located about 5 miles from where I live. Any problems with my packs and it's a short drive for them to take care of the problem. I can't say the same for the "dead on arrival" Turnigy I once bought. Granted, Hobby King took care of it, but it was a bit of a pain.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 07:29 PM
A&P/IA
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United States, FL, Middleburg
Joined Feb 2007
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finally broke down and bought the habu 2, this made my flying buddies day. (gave my original to a buddy to start him in edf jets).
bought the unpainted airframe only version, installed a velocity cool 42 motor into an eflite housing fitted with a het rotor. using a castle lite ice 100 and venom 4s 3600 50c packs. i get just over 1300 watts at about 95 amps.
i just recieved the shulman aviation e tracts for this as well. i will install them tomorrow and post pics. i painted mine up like an edwards afb f-16 (test and eval) and used callie graphics.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 07:47 PM
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Callie from Callie Graphics is the BOMB! I've ordered from her several times in the past and I would highly recommend her to anyone that needs vinyl stickers for their projects. Here's some pics of one of my planes with graphics by her...
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 08:48 PM
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i did my original habu in a navy aggressor scheme using callie graphics
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 08:59 PM
I drank it, and it is good.
United States, OH, Powell
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen4Lfe View Post
I've never liked the idea of having a power switch on an esc. I've seen too many power switches fail on RC cars to trust them in a plane. To me, unplugging a flight pack isn't any harder than hitting a power switch. The switch is just another failure point. Might be worth eliminating it and just solder the wires together.
My switch failed on my Habu V1 at SEFF this past spring. Luckily I was on the ground just after a flight and the ESC just shut off as I was taxing back towards myself. Could have been really bad. I will cut them off from now on.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 11:33 PM
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dallas tx
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chevron, where did you get the v2 foam from?
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 12:32 AM
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Joined Sep 2011
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@mustang347

Glad you were on the ground when that happened! I won't touch an on/off switch with a ten foot pole. Got rid of all mine. Even on my 1/8 scale buggy...I plug the RX battery directly into the RX.
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