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Old Mar 09, 2013, 10:26 PM
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Joined Nov 2010
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Rounded out another C gear. Guess I can't really complain since they are cheap but replacing them is kinda a PITA. Lining up the tail shaft and D gear even with marking the flat spot just doesn't want to work for me ever :/
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 10:30 PM
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lasakro's Avatar
United States, NY, Amsterdam
Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72 View Post
Rounded out another C gear. Guess I can't really complain since they are cheap but replacing them is kinda a PITA. Lining up the tail shaft and D gear even with marking the flat spot just doesn't want to work for me ever :/
Adding a slipper clutch ends those problems.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 10:42 PM
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United States, MN, North Mankato
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72 View Post
Rounded out another C gear. Guess I can't really complain since they are cheap but replacing them is kinda a PITA. Lining up the tail shaft and D gear even with marking the flat spot just doesn't want to work for me ever :/
Metal gear upgrade!
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by alexjschauer View Post
Metal gear upgrade!
They are on backorder along with a DS35 for the mH mount I've had for over a month now
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 11:41 AM
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Canada, ON, Hamilton
Joined Oct 2005
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Hi, Iím a beginner with this model, new to helicopters, but have flown fixed wing pattern planes for many years.

I posted[#8] these questions on the review at
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...7#post24372636
but it doesn't look like I'll get an answer to my questions.

I have the Spektrum DX6i for this model.
Iíve used the Transmitter set up shown on page 6 of the manual for the 130 X.

I would like to change the throttle and pitch curve set up such that I can power the model off the floor with a gradual throttle increase, rather than have it ďjumpĒ off the floor.

Also I would like to set the rotor so that it stays in positive pitch at full throttle, rather than going into negative pitch when the stick is all the way up.
Maybe this set up is what you call fixed pitch, which might be better for me to learn on?

Lastly, the servos do not seem to track the stick and return to neutral as they do in my plane.
I did bring the Blade back to my LHS and they did fly it, so it does appear to work ok.

I would just like to make the model less responsive and have a gentle slow take off and perhaps be a little easier for me, the beginner, to fly.

Thanks for any help.
John
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 12:01 PM
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United States, MN, North Mankato
Joined Feb 2011
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Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72 View Post
They are on backorder along with a DS35 for the mH mount I've had for over a month now
No I just bought a genuine blade metal gearset from a seller on ebay. I'll pull up a link for you later.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 12:09 PM
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Why a secret

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
Lastly, the servos do not seem to track the stick and return to neutral as they do in my plane.
Thanks for any help.
John
I recently discovered the same thing with how the AS3X system works on this chopper.
I wish It was brought to our attention as a CP beginner, moving from a 120SR.
Would have made my learning curve a LOT less difficult.

As a point of interest, the AS3X system do NOT work that way on my UMX AS3X Beast.

RUD
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Last edited by RUDDERLESS; Mar 10, 2013 at 12:41 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 12:09 PM
Gaui X2 & Protos Mini FBL
Picofly's Avatar
Helsinki, Finland
Joined Jan 2008
706 Posts
Here is some FPV flying with my 130X:

Blade 130X goes FPV - Eteläsatama, Helsinki (4 min 2 sec)
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 01:53 PM
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United States, CA, Palos Verdes Peninsula
Joined Dec 2011
1,031 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
Hi, Iím a beginner with this model, new to helicopters, but have flown fixed wing pattern planes for many years.

I posted[#8] these questions on the review at
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...7#post24372636
but it doesn't look like I'll get an answer to my questions.

I have the Spektrum DX6i for this model.
Iíve used the Transmitter set up shown on page 6 of the manual for the 130 X.

I would like to change the throttle and pitch curve set up such that I can power the model off the floor with a gradual throttle increase, rather than have it ďjumpĒ off the floor.

Also I would like to set the rotor so that it stays in positive pitch at full throttle, rather than going into negative pitch when the stick is all the way up.
Maybe this set up is what you call fixed pitch, which might be better for me to learn on?

Lastly, the servos do not seem to track the stick and return to neutral as they do in my plane.
I did bring the Blade back to my LHS and they did fly it, so it does appear to work ok.

I would just like to make the model less responsive and have a gentle slow take off and perhaps be a little easier for me, the beginner, to fly.

Thanks for any help.
John
Sounds like you want something that behaves like a Blade 120SR.

I was in your shoes with CP helis about a year ago. You can do the things you describe by tweaking the normal mode pitch curve, and flying only in that mode. There are a few things to watch out for in doing that which usually results in a crash (probably why folks don't want to offer advice):

- Lifting off before you have enough head speed makes for very sloppy control (no different from lifting off a plane before achieving sufficient airspeed).
- If you ever want to fly in stunt mode, you don't want a mismatch in pitch curves in the range you normally would click over to stunt mode (or too large a change in throttle settings either) - this will lead to abrupt behavior that could lead to a crash
- If your ultimate goal is to learn to fly CP helis, flying your heli as you would like will probably lead to some bad muscle memory that you will have to unlearn (like using the throttle stick for fixed wing flying as a throttle stick for CP flying - for helis (especially in stunt mode), it is a pitch stick. I realized this more than once when I slammed my heli into the ground by reducing the throttle. Now, I cut the throttle with a switch to land, and aside from the few seconds it takes to lift off, fly with a constant throttle setting.

Okay, with the warnings out of the way, here's how I got my CP helis to lift off the ground gradually in normal mode (have since removed these settings now that I know better):

- keep your throttle curve per the manual
- set your pitch settings as follows: L-45%, 2-55%, 3-60%, 4-75%, H-100%
- do not fly in stunt mode without fixing this pitch curve as the heli will dive to the ground as soon as you hit the switch (assuming you have a straight pitch curve from 0% To 100%)

I don't know why your pitch would go negative at full throttle/pitch. That setting should normally be at 100%, which is full positive pitch (you probably already know this, but anything below 50% on the pitch curve is negative pitch).
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 01:54 PM
Corsair Captain
United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Oct 2010
2,261 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
Hi, Iím a beginner with this model, new to helicopters, but have flown fixed wing pattern planes for many years.

I posted[#8] these questions on the review at
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...7#post24372636
but it doesn't look like I'll get an answer to my questions.

I have the Spektrum DX6i for this model.
Iíve used the Transmitter set up shown on page 6 of the manual for the 130 X.

I would like to change the throttle and pitch curve set up such that I can power the model off the floor with a gradual throttle increase, rather than have it ďjumpĒ off the floor.

Also I would like to set the rotor so that it stays in positive pitch at full throttle, rather than going into negative pitch when the stick is all the way up.
Maybe this set up is what you call fixed pitch, which might be better for me to learn on?

Lastly, the servos do not seem to track the stick and return to neutral as they do in my plane.
I did bring the Blade back to my LHS and they did fly it, so it does appear to work ok.

I would just like to make the model less responsive and have a gentle slow take off and perhaps be a little easier for me, the beginner, to fly.

Thanks for any help.
John
You can try reducing your throttle curve to around 75% at full throttle, but have it go up to 65% at half throttle, and travel adjustments for aileron and elevator down until it feels more gentle for you.
Garry K.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 06:44 PM
Registered User
United States, CA, Sacramento
Joined Jun 2012
44 Posts
Location for decent screwdrivers

I've been trying very hard to find a location where I can purchase decent quality Philips screwdrivers that I can use on the tiny screws of the 130X. I found one at the local hobby shop that is made by CAL-Hawk. It is a #0 size but is 6" long and has a pretty large handle, making light, precision work a little tricky.

I really like the tip on this driver though, as it is precision cut (of CR-V steel?) and so will work in even the tiny little screws (like those on the tail shaft collar) and is magnetic.

Is there a place where I can find other drivers like this, but smaller - like 3-4" with a smaller handle?

Thanks,
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 06:47 PM
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United States, CA, Sacramento
Joined Jun 2012
44 Posts
Nuts/Bolts/Screws/Washer sets

I was wondering if there is a source where I can get a large set of various tiny nuts/bolts/screws/washers rather than buying individuals or packs of 5 for $5.

I would like to build a collection of pieces from which I can draw when needed, but the small-quantity prices at the hobby store are just prohibitive.

Thanks,
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 06:51 PM
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United States, NY, Amsterdam
Joined Dec 2012
1,327 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post
I've been trying very hard to find a location where I can purchase decent quality Philips screwdrivers that I can use on the tiny screws of the 130X. I found one at the local hobby shop that is made by CAL-Hawk. It is a #0 size but is 6" long and has a pretty large handle, making light, precision work a little tricky.

I really like the tip on this driver though, as it is precision cut (of CR-V steel?) and so will work in even the tiny little screws (like those on the tail shaft collar) and is magnetic.

Is there a place where I can find other drivers like this, but smaller - like 3-4" with a smaller handle?

Thanks,
I love my Wiha 4 piece set. #000, 00, 00 and 1. Made in Germany.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...26194&_sacat=0

http://www.wihatools.com/200seri/261serie.htm
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 06:56 PM
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United States, CA, Sacramento
Joined Jun 2012
44 Posts
Thanks, those do look nice. Do they have magnetized tips? One of the problems I have is getting screws down into an area where I can't really hold the screw on the tip of the driver. The magnetized top really makes this easy.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 07:01 PM
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United States, NY, Amsterdam
Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post
Thanks, those do look nice. Do they have magnetized tips? One of the problems I have is getting screws down into an area where I can't really hold the screw on the tip of the driver. The magnetized top really makes this easy.
No they aren't magnetized. I just do it myself.
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