Feeling your pain on the 130X...
Just got a new main board, flipped it inverted, then the tail started piroing as fast as it could.
WTH?
Any ideas?
Tail gears aren't stripped.

Check to see of your C or D gear is rounded out. Gears will look fine hit it you hold the main and are able to rotate the tail one or both are rounded out.

Sometimes it will hover with them rounded out and when you do something aggressive its TBO city.

Installed my MicroHeli weighted grips and shaft tonight when I tore it down to install a new D gear after rounding it out with a late TH crash.

Nope they are solid.

First " balls out" flights on my 130x tonight.

I was surprised how easy this heli is too maintain. I found myself flying it without any inhibitions. It is very smooth, and I am liking it alot.

Originally Posted by alexjschauer

Feeling your pain on the 130X...
Just got a new main board, flipped it inverted, then the tail started piroing as fast as it could.
WTH?
Any ideas?
Tail gears aren't stripped.

I still have the same problems with mine. Cleaned the tail servo, and it doesn't do it as often anymore.

At least you got a reply to your problem. I must have posted about my problem at least three times and got not a single reply

What TT are you running? I tried the Lynx ones and didn't have the best luck with them durability wise...

I made a 3D printed 3rd torque tube bearing case, you can check it out at helifreak: http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=507723

Originally Posted by keithy4129

I was thinking the same thing myself, with all of the servos available, there has to be one that fits, even if its a hair smaller you could shim it, what about a hs35 (pricey though)

YES, there is one!

My other 130X's DS35 finally went bad. It is now chattering after countless flights. If you guys would read the reviews of the DS35 http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...gsReviews=true, that issue is common or maybe VERY COMMON. But having tried DS35 on my 130x, I will never go back to linear servo for rudder use.
The stock linear servo constantly oscillates causing tail to go bad eventually.

I have gone through all HobbyKings's servos and can not find any substitute.
Finally found one that maybe possible and risked ordering one. Just received it, a DS37 and hooked it up loose (unmounted).
1. DS35 = 3.5 gram digital, whereas, DS37 is a 3.7gram digital
2. The servo was reversed throw compared to DS35
3. DS37 = 19.9mm from front to back, with 8.5mm thickness
DS35 = 17.7mm with 6.5mm thickness

USAGE:
1. With the DS35, my servo mount (or any mount) is a true plug & play. Because the DS37 was 1.5mm longer, I had to eliminate the two brackets included with the mounting hardwares, trim the servo ears and use dab of epoxy to glue it to the servo mount. Drop of CA should also work.
2. Reversed the servo throw, which requires soldering skills swapping four hair size cables inside the DS37 servo. Mounting the servo on the right side of the boom, rather than left side should also work the same, which I did not try.

* Utilizing the servo mount I use, does not matter with the 2mm difference thickness.
* trim the servo ears, and use epoxy instead.

Parts used:
1. http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Wa...7-p-50193.html
2. http://www.oomodel.com/v120d02s-serv...o-p-63449.html

I will fly the heli tomorrow, and if everything is well (I don't see why not), I will use the same servo on my other 130X once it's DS35 servo also wears out.

* The second picture is the DS35 servo that went bad, the rest of the pics is DS37 on my 130X.

Looks like a cool and cheap mod !

Originally Posted by brushless55

Looks like a cool and cheap mod !

Yes, both items were free shipping too.
I just tried it flying outside the house. It worked so far.
Tomorrow, I will try it 3D flying.

I am placing another order of servo just in case I need one, I don't have to wait for the next boat to depart.
I don't mind paying extra on the DS35 but the DS37 may have better longevity.

OK, I'll just admit it, I'm also cheap

- Spyro

Spyro,

About how many flights would you say you got out of the D35 before it started to go?


Ball park figure...

Yeah, I'd like to know as well.

Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123

Spyro,

About how many flights would you say you got out of the D35 before it started to go?


Ball park figure...

Quite a lot but not for me. But, also, It could be hit or miss? if you'd read the DS35 review on HH's site.
About 100-150 hundred flights on DS35. I fly around 15-20 flights a week. So it was not that much as far as "how many weeks".
The linear tail servo on both my 130s had less flights before it went gradually bad.
Not complaining about any of the servos, but a better servo would be awesome, right?
I just came back from the field. I flew the DS37 a few times.
Last flight, I had bad tail wag on FFF. I am not sure if it was the gyro or the servo or what caused it. It won't stop, even after I stopped it to hover. I decided to hit normal flight mode, and wag disappeared. Toggled to stunt mode and did it again sometime during the flight. Clicked the NORMAL mode & wag disappeared again, including the 130X
It was so windy, and normal mode should have not been an option Wind took my heli.
Went to pick it up, nothing was damaged at all.
Flew it again, of course, it run out of juice on inverted
I packed up, it's too windy and gusty, no one else wants to fly but me.
Both my 130s were OK at the end of the day, so I'm happy.

I was not able to pin point what caused the tail wag during my last flight. The wind is too strong to trouble shoot, test, & fly again. And I don't want to break parts.
It could be just the rudder gain since the DS37 has more servo throw compared to the stock linear and the prior DS35.
I could either:
1. lower the gyro gain ?
2. move the pushrod to the inner hole of the servo arm?
3. Or decrease my rudder throw (dual rate)?

Decreasing rudder throw will only lower the piro rate, won't affect system gain which if too high causes wagging..

I would suggest moving in on the arm to get the same throw as the DS35. Then the mechanical gain is the same so you should not have to lower the electrical gain.

Pat MacKenzie

Originally Posted by pmackenzie

Decreasing rudder throw will only lower the piro rate, won't affect system gain which if too high causes wagging..

I would suggest moving in on the arm to get the same throw as the DS35. Then the mechanical gain is the same so you should not have to lower the electrical gain.

Pat MacKenzie

I agree. In fact, when I noticed how much pitch there is from what it was, I was going to move it to the next inner hole but got lazy and went to bed. Then went to fly this morning.
It flew great the first few flights until the last one.
I will move it to the next inner hole before I fly it again.
I don't want to lower gyro gain as much as possible if possible, unless I have to.
- Spyro