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Old Feb 01, 2013, 08:01 AM
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lasakro's Avatar
United States, NY, Amsterdam
Joined Dec 2012
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Took some digging and found it, below. Still twitches with rud. set to 1 so I brought the other 2 down to 1 also. Not any better. Now it's mechanical. The tape balance gave me a 25% vib. reduction. That must still be interfering with the tail gyro. I'll bring A & E back up to 10 and keep going.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/BLH3780_Gyro_menu.pdf
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 08:37 AM
Controls Engineer
lasakro's Avatar
United States, NY, Amsterdam
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My option is that I received a bad tail servo. It will sit here bound at zero throttle and the blades intermittently twitch.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 11:32 AM
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Finland, Uusimaa, Helsinki
Joined Nov 2011
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BLADE130x ????????

I have same kind of problem...have upgraded the tail case, tail grips and metal A gear. Also checked that the boom is not split. I am at rudder gain -3 but still twitches almost all the time. Have to try -6 though.

Frustrated...also suspecting the servo. Will try to deoxit it.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 11:39 AM
2 seconds from crashing
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United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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If your main gear is pressed too tight towards the frame it will also make your tail twitch. It ends up putting too much pressure on the A and B gears.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 12:01 PM
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Finland, Uusimaa, Helsinki
Joined Nov 2011
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I noted that on the Lynx tail blade it says:
http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/lynx...4-p-21932.html

" Lynx tail blade have higher efficacy compared standard blade than we recommend reduce and adjust tail gyro gain as need to avoid tail wagging."

Bad english but does it actually suggest to lower the gain because of the higher efficacy?

I tried the old tail blades though, no difference...still lots of vibrations. I also used Deoxit on the servo.

Does your tail servo jitter back and forth all the time? Mine does.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 03:54 PM
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United States, NY, Amsterdam
Joined Dec 2012
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After setting the tail gain to -9 and when I stopped flying the fins would still twitch. I called HH and have a new servo on it's way. I asked about their warranty on servos and they told me one year.

In the mean time, I had the servo off expecting to go to my LHS but they were out, decided to take it apart and clean it. A good amount of crap came out of a new servo. I also put some more pressure on the wiper by bending it out. 95% difference now. No tail wag but the servo still hunts a little but not enough to move the blades. My 480 servo's hunt a bit also. Reset all gains to default, 0, and it fly's great. The tail has a very slight drift so I'm going to bring the gain up.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 06:03 PM
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SYMAWD's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garryk View Post
I found a Spin 8800kv on ebay. Can that use the original speed controller?
Garry K.
yes
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 08:43 PM
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Joined Nov 2010
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Making some extended tail boom braces using some hollow 4mm CF tube.



Now to keep fiddling around with my rudder gain to see if I can get rid of this shake during flips. Spools up smoothly and my C gear is glued to my Lynx CF tt.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 02:44 AM
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Finland, Uusimaa, Helsinki
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lasakro View Post
After setting the tail gain to -9 and when I stopped flying the fins would still twitch. I called HH and have a new servo on it's way. I asked about their warranty on servos and they told me one year.

In the mean time, I had the servo off expecting to go to my LHS but they were out, decided to take it apart and clean it. A good amount of crap came out of a new servo. I also put some more pressure on the wiper by bending it out. 95% difference now. No tail wag but the servo still hunts a little but not enough to move the blades. My 480 servo's hunt a bit also. Reset all gains to default, 0, and it fly's great. The tail has a very slight drift so I'm going to bring the gain up.
Wow have to try that myself. How did you clean the servos? Soak in deoxit and clean with toilet paper?
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by vmmattil View Post
Wow have to try that myself. How did you clean the servos? Soak in deoxit and clean with toilet paper?
No. I removed it from the body, unsoldered the 2 wires for the mechanical assy and removed it from the PCB. I used Kleenex with alcohol. Cleaned the wiper, both white and black resistive strips. Gently bent the wipers out for more pressure on the strips. You can see in the photos how much came off. My deoxit is still on order so I don't know but some tuner cleaners I used way back have some lubricant properties to it. You may be better with that than the alcohol I used.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 06:47 AM
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Finland, Uusimaa, Helsinki
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Thanks! I removed the servo and its cable. Did not want to unsolder it the way you did. Cleaned it by dripping Dioxit here and there. Screwed it back. Now, the heli flies much better. Still wobbling now and then, but now it is actually flyable. I put back the Lynx tail blades and have rudder gain at -3.

So the tail servo seems to be one of the factors causing problems! I guess I have to order a new tail servo anyway.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by vmmattil View Post
Thanks! I removed the servo and its cable. Did not want to unsolder it the way you did. Cleaned it by dripping Dioxit here and there. Screwed it back. Now, the heli flies much better. Still wobbling now and then, but now it is actually flyable. I put back the Lynx tail blades and have rudder gain at -3.

So the tail servo seems to be one of the factors causing problems! I guess I have to order a new tail servo anyway.
You may have gotten away without unsoldering it. I just want to be able to work without the interference. You might want to spray it while you move it so that it gets under the wiper. Mine is still under wty but I'm told that when it's time to buy go for the DS35. It's worth it.

I want to ask. How are the rear plastic tail gears holding out for everyone without a slipper clutch? Frequency of wiped gears vs crashes. I don't care about the front with metal.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72 View Post
Making some extended tail boom braces using some hollow 4mm CF tube.



Now to keep fiddling around with my rudder gain to see if I can get rid of this shake during flips. Spools up smoothly and my C gear is glued to my Lynx CF tt.
Your tail shaft retaining collar is on backwards. The tapered end goes toward the flange bearing on that side.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by lasakro View Post
You may have gotten away without unsoldering it. I just want to be able to work without the interference. You might want to spray it while you move it so that it gets under the wiper. Mine is still under wty but I'm told that when it's time to buy go for the DS35. It's worth it.

I want to ask. How are the rear plastic tail gears holding out for everyone without a slipper clutch? Frequency of wiped gears vs crashes. I don't care about the front with metal.
Zero electric shaft-driven helicopters that I'm aware of have a slipper clutch. The gear is pretty light - you get a spare with the helicopter, they know it's weak. I've had one break in a crash, and one just wear out. I wouldn't expect it to survive any crash involving a tail strike, but if you manage to crash some other way it seems to be ok. The 130X is not designed to crash though - it designed to fly, and 'rate of damage' in crashes is pretty much a worthless measurement. It is a popular thing to ask, but the fact is, when you're crashing helicopters you should expect something to break, and if it doesn't, it's a bonus, you got lucky. We get lucky quite often with these little ones, but you should focus on how durable it is in normal flying, and it's fairly durable if you take care of it.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 11:45 AM
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Joined Sep 2007
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They don't come with one but people have been making them for walkeras for a while now
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