Happy New Year to you all and your families :-)

Here's a short, boring flight from our New Year's Eve indoor-fly. Just doing a few laps & trying to lift-off & land in a scale-ish manner. As easy as it is to fly this bird smoothly, I'd think it would make a great scale platform (unlike most micros). I hope someone comes out with a few scale fuselages for it!

Blade 130X - a few laps at our indoor spot (2 min 39 sec)

Happy New Year everyone!

Joel

Originally Posted by harryhenderson

Lots of guys over on HF would disagree. According to them, the sub trim "holds" from flight to flight.

The receiver does not know the difference between sub trim, trim, or holding the stick a little off centre. Anyone who suggests different does not know what they are talking about.

HH gyros and the FBL units typically use the turn on pulse width as their command "zero" reference rather than a fixed value.

Using the flight mode trim method tricks the gyro into taking the zero yaw command reference at startup, then when you change flight modes the slight yaw command from the trim is just enough to counter the gyros drift error.

Pat MacKenzie

Originally Posted by pmackenzie

The receiver does not know the difference between sub trim, trim, or holding the stick a little off centre. Anyone who suggests different does not know what they are talking about.

And yet, just somehow, it actually works. I did it with my drifting mCPX and sub trim worked fine. We're not talking about a singular, fluke event, either. Many people have sub trimmed their 130X boards (permanently) with great success.

Originally Posted by pmackenzie

The receiver does not know the difference between sub trim, trim, or holding the stick a little off centre. Anyone who suggests different does not know what they are talking about.

While this is true, the receiver can't tell the difference - there are some differences in the way it acts because of how the receiver starts up. We don't know if this receiver has that two-stage startup that allows, for example a GY401, to tell the difference between trim and sub-trim entered before binding.

I put in a click of left cyclic trim on mine and have not had to re-do it - that one click of trim got it centered, and it doesn't reset. I think it's using fixed values for center - that explains the fact that everyone I know who has a 9503 needed a click of left trim on the thing. We don't have an official explanation of this, so I think it's pretty ballsy to insult people over it. Particularly when your theory doesn't match practice.

On my DX7S I had 2 clicks of left rudder that held every flight. My 9303 doesn't need any trim. I used regular trim, not sub trim. Don't think it would matter though. Just my experience....
Garry K.

Originally Posted by jasmine2501

I put in a click of left cyclic trim on mine and have not had to re-do it - that one click of trim got it centered, and it doesn't reset. I think it's using fixed values for center - that explains the fact that everyone I know who has a 9503 needed a click of left trim on the thing. We don't have an official explanation of this, so I think it's pretty ballsy to insult people over it. Particularly when your theory doesn't match practice.

Well said, especially that last part. Trim (or sub trim) works perfectly fine and holds from flight to flight on the 130X and, for me, the mCPX since my 130X didn't need any. People have been doing it for quite some time successfully.

Originally Posted by jasmine2501

While this is true, the receiver can't tell the difference - there are some differences in the way it acts because of how the receiver starts up. We don't know if this receiver has that two-stage startup that allows, for example a GY401, to tell the difference between trim and sub-trim entered before binding.

I put in a click of left cyclic trim on mine and have not had to re-do it - that one click of trim got it centered, and it doesn't reset. I think it's using fixed values for center - that explains the fact that everyone I know who has a 9503 needed a click of left trim on the thing. We don't have an official explanation of this, so I think it's pretty ballsy to insult people over it. Particularly when your theory doesn't match practice.

With respect, I simply said the receiver can't tell the difference between trim and subtrim , not that some sort of trim could not correct things in certain situations.

So in your case, if as you suspect the stabilizer uses a fixed neutral, you could have used trim or sub trim and either would have worked.

In the case of " two stage receiver start up", again it would not matter how your neutral had been adjusted from the bind position, either by trim or sub trim, the effect would be identical.

What I described was in fact a way to force a "two stage start up" by using the flight mode trims that many transmitters have.

I will repeat, the receiver can only know the length of the pulse it is getting, not how that was achieved in the transmitter.
Trim, sub trim or holding the stick off centre is all exactly the same thing as far as it knows. There is no magic that tells it that this pulse width is a result of X subtrim steps plus Y trim steps + Z stick position .

Pat MacKenzie

I do know that you can't move the heli while the gyro's are initializing or she'll spin on you. At least for the tail gyro.
Garry K.

Hey folks sorry to jump in with a topic that isn't being discussed at the moment. I just wanted to post up a picture of a new canopy that I painted for a customer of mine. It is based on one of my RC car bodies that he liked. It is a repaint of a stock canopy.

Happy new year!

130x stock power system with 3 stripped teeth on the bevel gear on the main shaft (3 min 51 sec)

Out of the box, my 130X rolled to starboard. I tried trimming it out mechanically, but that didn't work. I added a few clicks of left cyclic trim & it has been fine ever since.

Joel

Originally Posted by turboparker

Out of the box, my 130X rolled to starboard. I tried trimming it out mechanically, but that didn't work. I added a few clicks of right cyclic trim & it has been fine ever since.

Joel

Mine does the same thing, BUT before I do some "trimming", doesn't starboard mean to the right, so wouldn't you put in left cyclic ??

RUD

hey guys, im seriously considering getting a 130x, I currently own a mcx, msr, 120sr, mcpx and a ncpx. what upgrades/mods. would I benefit from right away?

Originally Posted by keithy4129

hey guys, im seriously considering getting a 130x, I currently own a mcx, msr, 120sr, mcpx and a ncpx. what upgrades/mods. would I benefit from right away?

Could be none. It depends on how lucky you are. Mine flew great OOB. But I put O rings on the swash plate and... umm... nothing else. I'm even still running the plastic A gear and all the stock tail rotor parts! This thing flies great!