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Old Dec 21, 2012, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
The ar7200bx is the same flybarless controller I have had in many heli's without issue. But if vibes was an issue for some it is easy enough to remount with better foam tape. These are RTF/BNF helis so it woulndt surprise me if some of the ar7200bx's were not mounted perfect.
You shouldn't have to use better tape, but that's not the issue, from what I understand. The issue is with poor quality motor bearings failing very prematurely and causing the vibes. So, it's a bad part related issue. I should probably pull my brand new 450X motor and toss in a set of ceramic Boca bearings and locktite the motor shaft to the lower bearing like I did with my 4503D 420 motor. Those were known for failing early, too, but I have hundreds of flights on mine and it seems to be holding up fine other than being a little underpowered. Not a problem with the 440 motor in the 450X, though. That little outrunner has some stink to it when you hammer down.


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The frame flexing for most I would think is not a big deal at all. When I sport flew it never flexed even with tight loops. Since I olnly owned one 300x at this time I am not sure if it was my individual heli or it was the constant flipping and tic tocs I did with it that made it flex. Either way it shouldnt flex enough ever for the rub to happen. If it happens this time around I will give in and purchase Dylans frame braces.

Even with frame flexing I never had any issues with the main shaft so I cant say about that.
Any flex would make me uncomfortable. I saw a video of a guy moving the main shaft back and forth and the frame looked like a wet noodle. Just the pictures I've seen of elevator links chewed halfway through would cause me to have the frame braces installed after the very first gentle test flight or two to make sure the thing worked okay. The Asteroid braces have to be glued on and that might cause warranty problems with Horizon if you had to send it in. Lynx does make a bolt-on frame plate, but reports indicate they're out of stock everywhere.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 01:00 PM
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United States, WA, Seattle
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Originally Posted by harryhenderson View Post
You shouldn't have to use better tape, but that's not the issue, from what I understand. The issue is with poor quality motor bearings failing very prematurely and causing the vibes. So, it's a bad part related issue. I should probably pull my brand new 450X motor and toss in a set of ceramic Boca bearings and locktite the motor shaft to the lower bearing like I did with my 4503D 420 motor. Those were known for failing early, too, but I have hundreds of flights on mine and it seems to be holding up fine other than being a little underpowered. Not a problem with the 440 motor in the 450X, though. That little outrunner has some stink to it when you hammer down.




Any flex would make me uncomfortable. I saw a video of a guy moving the main shaft back and forth and the frame looked like a wet noodle. Just the pictures I've seen of elevator links chewed halfway through would cause me to have the frame braces installed after the very first gentle test flight to make sure the thing worked okay since the Asteroid braces have to be glued on and that might cause warranty problems with Horizon if you had to send it in. Lynx does make a bolt-on frame plate, but reports indicate they're out of stock everywhere.
The foame tape was only my guess as I havent had any issues with the ar7200x ever. If you said bearings in the first post I would have said bearings on new kits also fail and being HH doesnt use top notch parts it doesnt surprise me some fail out of the box or early.

I have had to replace many bearings sometimes before the first flight on my Align heli's. It isnt a happy thing when you get a new product with issues but it does happen. Align wouldnt send me new bearings so I was left to buy more. Anytime I have had issues with an HH product they have always helped me out, though sometimes it took more effort on my part.

Now if my Goblin has bad bearings on parts out of the box I wouldnt be too surprised either, as even the best of the best can occasionally have issues. Of course I would be unhappy but I believe SAB would make it right.

I have posted many photos of chewed links and it didnt happen until i started 3d flying with the heli. Even then it shouldnt happen, though still for most users they will only sport fly and will never see an issue.

For anyone who flys their heli like a dying fish I would suggest watching it and if it does rub add the braces. Frame braces would not cause a warranty issue as HH knows about the frame flexing and the add-ons to counter it. On my first 300x they suggested that I go the brace route.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
Align wouldnt send me new bearings so I was left to buy more. Anytime I have had issues with an HH product they have always helped me out, though sometimes it took more effort on my part
I appreciate their customer service, but I wouldn't want HH replacement bearings and I'd probably just buy Bocas anyway. Never, ever had a single problem with any of their bearings. My 130X got the full frame bearings treatment.

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For anyone who flys their heli like a dying fish I would suggest watching it and ifit does rub add the braces.
Then I guess I'd need the frame braces.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by harryhenderson View Post
But, why just that part? I have Lynx main blade grips and swashplate. Those parts seem like they'll last forever. Very well made. Same for my Rakon tail grips and pitch slider. Why would the upgraded shafts be any different?
Yes, just that part (TS) purposely soft metal, so people would buy it "again" since the stock TS is hit or miss. Both the MH & Lynx performed really well on both my 130X. Both bent from low impact & low altitude crash on grass. I have yet to bend the stock ones.
The other head "upgrade" parts may not be very necessary, the stock works just fine. So if it won't be as good or better than the stock, other's has no excuse to buy 'em.

The stock tail shaft is of "inconsistent" QC, it needs an "upgrade", & it would be a good business if they could make something that is precisely "square" but won't last or bend easliy. I can't think of any other reason why use a softer Tail Shaft. I would pay the extra cost than those butter soft TS that I already trashed.

I think I purchased a total of 7pcs. Blade tail shafts to get rid of my tail vib between the two 130s I have. Not bad, than buying an "upgrade" every time I crash
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 09:58 PM
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Yes, just that part (TS) purposely soft metal, so people would buy it "again" since the stock TS is hit or miss.
Regarding hit or miss...Do you have a LHS where you can inspect them before buying? If you get a non-square one directly from Horizon, just call them and they'll most likely send you out another one without even requiring a return. They did it for me when I got a bad one once. They're supposed to be much better shafts now than the initial release ones. Like I said, the last two I ordered were perfectly square.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by harryhenderson View Post
Regarding hit or miss...Do you have a LHS where you can inspect them before buying? If you get a non-square one directly from Horizon, just call them and they'll most likely send you out another one without even requiring a return. They did it for me when I got a bad one once. They're supposed to be much better shafts now than the initial release ones. Like I said, the last two I ordered were perfectly square.
LOL, I got them from the LHS which is few minutes walk from my house. They all appeared PERFECT square, but each one vibrated differently. Two were SOLID! zero vib, I'd say.
I believe you that HH will replace a defective item, I just wanna go out and fly so I went to my LHS.
I din't wanna call them anymore, since you won't believe how many times they have given me parts delivered at my door withing 24-48 hours.
They have replaced my mCPX 3-in-1 board and etc. A month ago, they sent me a 130X servo, 3-in-1 board. I feel like I'm "asking" for free parts, but I know I'm not. So this time, I'll just eat the cost.
I din't want to return the rest of the TS to my LHS, since they have given me great deals before. This is the first time I have to spend $'s, my cost from something it shouldn't be. But that's OK, it wasn't that much, and I'm so happy now between the two 130s I have. Oh, BTW, the 130X 3-in-1 lost motor output (and no beeps) after a minor crash. The heli was 2 weeks old then, HH took care of me.
* I just feel cheated with the MicroHeli & Lynx tail shafts. I could bend them easily with my fingers (same hand). I couldn't believe it when my friend told me that, until I got own.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 11:34 PM
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LOL, I got them from the LHS which is few minutes walk from my house. They all appeared PERFECT square, but each one vibrated differently.
Next time bring along your digital calipers and/or a sheet of notebook paper.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by harryhenderson View Post
Next time bring along your digital calipers and/or a sheet of notebook paper.
Let's hope I won't have to replace them again anytime soon (crashing it) .
In fact, I bought my first 130X when it came out. Never really bent it from countless crash but it had a minimal vib on spool up. after over 200 flights, it trashed all the tail bearings & the tail servo. The pot (metal plating) on the tail servo board got "eaten-up" due to vib/friction. Now I Use the DS35 servo, new bearings & metal slider. The heli flies solid and the tail holds pretty good during fast flights and stick banging.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Spyro37 View Post
Never really bent it from countless crash but it had a minimal vib on spool up. after over 200 flights, it trashed all the tail bearings & the tail servo. The pot (metal plating) on the tail servo board got "eaten-up" due to vib/friction.
15 hours or so spinning at 20k rpm, and some tiny bearings and plastic gears wore out? In my book, that's darn good. I try to get rid of the vibrations as well, but hearing this, it actually makes me wonder whether it's worthwhile.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 10:15 AM
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Now I Use the DS35 servo, new bearings & metal slider. The heli flies solid and the tail holds pretty good during fast flights and stick banging.
I have a DS35, too. And the Microheli mount just waiting to go on when my stock tail servo dies. I'm hoping it locks my tail in as well as everyone else claims. I'm still trying to figure out what to use as a tail rotor pushrod. I want it to be carbon fiber with a ball link at the servo end.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by harryhenderson View Post
I have a DS35, too. And the Microheli mount just waiting to go on when my stock tail servo dies. I'm hoping it locks my tail in as well as everyone else claims. I'm still trying to figure out what to use as a tail rotor pushrod. I want it to be carbon fiber with a ball link at the servo end.
I just cut the end off of the stock pushrod and put a z bend on it. The bend halfway down the rod works out just right for the servo arm.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 04:57 PM
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I just cut the end off of the stock pushrod and put a z bend on it. The bend halfway down the rod works out just right for the servo arm.
Why tarnish an otherwise excellent servo setup with a sloppy Z-bend? I've seen some pretty sweet carbon rod/ball link setups. I'm just trying to figure out (and source) the carbon rod and appropriate sized ball for the servo.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 05:34 PM
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Why tarnish an otherwise excellent servo setup with a sloppy Z-bend? I've seen some pretty sweet carbon rod/ball link setups. I'm just trying to figure out (and source) the carbon rod and appropriate sized ball for the servo.
TBH, I was getting tired of sinking so much money on this heli trying to get it vibe free. The z bend, while not the prettiest, doesn't bind and is slop free. I haven't seen a carbon rod setup - would be interested to see how they got the necessary displacement from centerline to accommodate the ds35 servo arm.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 07:23 PM
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I just took the stock pushrod and rotated the wire on the servo end 90 deg, and there is no play in it at all. It didn't cost a dime. I would consider this before going to all the trouble. If I am wrong, then consider designing a carbon rod.
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Old Dec 22, 2012, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by harryhenderson View Post
I have a DS35, too. And the Microheli mount just waiting to go on when my stock tail servo dies. I'm hoping it locks my tail in as well as everyone else claims. I'm still trying to figure out what to use as a tail rotor pushrod. I want it to be carbon fiber with a ball link at the servo end.
I just used the same pushrod...
Turned & twisted the Z-bend sideways to the right side.
You'd be so happy with the DS35.

Also, my tail is very strong, due to I extended the boom support all the way to the end.
I also added a pushrod support between the DS35 and tail.
You can run 2 of those stock support holders if you consider doing the same.
I used Walkera cheap plastic parts on mine for the:
A. DS35 holder &
B. (mid) pushrod holder. This will prevent any pushrod flexing, since my boom support has been extended.
Both were "plug & play"
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