Originally Posted by egaus

0 is most negative, 50 is centered and 100 is most positive pitch.

Evidenced by powering up, switch on throttle hold and put the heli in idle up (stunt mode). You will see the blades' pitch change from 0 to 100 as you move the throttle up. Center the stick, you are right around 50. Negative pitch is not necessarily a negative number in the radio.

Wow. Did some more flights and this time noticed the awful resonance on the tail at lower throttle. Best to power up quick to center stick and avoid that mess. Is this an issue people are worried about solving or just ignore and move stick up fast to avoid?

e

I just release the throttle hold at mid-throttle in idle up, and no vibe/no tendency to flip over.

Love this heli! Did a solid tail-first crash yesterday, and no damage. C-gear is definitely weak link, but cheap and protects the rest of the drive train. Wish they sold ten-packs of C-gears!

Originally Posted by marctrudeau

Love this heli! Did a solid tail-first crash yesterday, and no damage. C-gear is definitely weak link, but cheap and protects the rest of the drive train. Wish they sold ten-packs of C-gears!

That's why I want to get a set of metal C and D gears when they become readily available from vendors here in the states. Run one metal and one plastic tail gear. When you burn through all of the plastic ones, switch out the metal C or D gear and run through all the plastic ones left since they come in sets. That way you always leave a plastic C or D gear as a weak link at the back of the boom.

Originally Posted by freezywilly

@deonjams Ok I used the full 130x setup as in the manual. This apparently is a no no. In the manual the pitch is reverse this will bite you fast. Will set a new model up as stock and try again. I am stll puzzled why on my dx6i I needed full throttle to get up and less than 90% throttle it just drops out of the sky.

Yep no-no. Do not setup as per 130x manual as that specific to heli, not sim. You can set up sim as per model but it takes much more time to do all those parameters manually, and then complicated to change model in sim if you like trying different types (heli, fixies etc). Setup sim from clean base model on radio

Originally Posted by tyerod

That's why I want to get a set of metal C and D gears when they become readily available from vendors here in the states. Run one metal and one plastic tail gear. When you burn through all of the plastic ones, switch out the metal C or D gear and run through all the plastic ones left since they come in sets. That way you always leave a plastic C or D gear as a weak link at the back of the boom.

Welcome back sgoodmeyer. lolzzzzzzz

Originally Posted by Dejavu*Xion

Welcome back sgoodmeyer. lolzzzzzzz

What?

FYI -

TP is now making 325mAh 65c UMX packs! (Thanks for the link, AP!): http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...-THP3252SPP65B

Joel

Originally Posted by turboparker

FYI -

TP is now making 325mAh 65c UMX packs! (Thanks for the link, AP!): http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...-THP3252SPP65B

Joel

RCBabbel has had those on his profile page for quite a while.

Originally Posted by tyerod

RCBabbel has had those on his profile page for quite a while.

I know. I'm the guy who first bench-tested & flight-tested them, and recommended them to everyone on the 130X & UMX plane threads. However, they were not available from TP until very recently. There is now a factory source for those who don't live in the 'States & wish to avoid international shipping, and for those who aren't concerned about the extra weight & want to save a few bucks. I'll still use RC's lightweight packs, as dead-weight is the enemy of performance. I want the highest-performing, lightest packs I can buy, so that I get all the performance from my aircraft that I paid for. I consider anything less to be a waste of my money.

Joel

Originally Posted by turboparker

I know. I'm the guy who first tested them & recommended them to everyone on here & everyone on the UMX plane threads.

Now there is a factory source for those who don't live in the 'States & wish to avoid international shipping, and for those who aren't concerned about the extra weight & want to save a few bucks.

Joel

Oh, okay. Thanks for looking out for our international friends.

Tyerod is by far the king of trolls....and once again back to his bridge he goes with head held low.

Originally Posted by Dejavu*Xion

Tyerod is by far the king of trolls....and once again back to his bridge he goes with head held low.

You know he is just going to come back with a new name.

Also I am sure he picked such a similar name to let people know it was him, he might like to troll about but he isnt an idiot.

How about just leave him be and if he starts being rude or attacking users then say something. If he is just being a regular user, just let it go.

Originally Posted by indoorheli

You know he is just going to come back with a new name.

Also I am sure he picked such a similar name to let people know it was him, he might like to troll about but he isnt an idiot.

How about just leave him be and if he starts being rude or attacking users then say something. If he is just being a regular user, just let it go.

Really ? Thats the guy you dont mind associating with ? ( see his post above ) He is not a regular user As you put. He lost that right. It is also not I that gets him banned. He does it to himself by what he writes. I have no crystal ball that tells me who is legit and who is not. But to answer your question. No i wont stop reporting his troll accts. I will however stop giving you and others the updates on his new shill accts. In return i do however expect you to no longer " bait" him into arguments like you have in the past.

When he gets chased around he only gets worse. He has had so many names he will come back, so whats the point of getting him banned repeatedly if it has absolutely no effect??

I come on here to read info on products, offer and get RC help and not read what all these threads have turned into