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Old Oct 03, 2012, 03:48 PM
2 seconds from crashing
indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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On the one I am flying right now it was too close to the fet and I can see with servo stress it will rub..so i grinded it down.

On tail slack my gear box is set correctly and it is more the shaft is too long for how the gear sits so it needs a very small spacer.

Better to learn on than the nano! I think the nano is the ultimate real life sim. It is the first heli I have ever had that I have tried piroflips indoors.

If it is taking you so long to regain control after a flip it most likely is from over correcting. The nano is super twitchy and when I got my first one I ran about 45% expo the first few days until I was more use to how fast it can go. So you might want to up your expo a bit since the heli moves way more near center stick then most heli's
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 04:25 PM
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United States, TX, Belton
Joined Sep 2009
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
...Better to learn on than the nano! I think the nano is the ultimate real life sim. It is the first heli I have ever had that I have tried piroflips indoors.
Haa haaa...I said that because when I flip the 130x, it is a lot more stable, not as twitchy, AND it's easier to see...For indoor...well..I still won't be doing any flips indoors anytime soon! Unless I can go to the gym at my church...then I can flip the 130x too

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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
If it is taking you so long to regain control after a flip it most likely is from over correcting. The nano is super twitchy and when I got my first one I ran about 45% expo the first few days until I was more use to how fast it can go. So you might want to up your expo a bit since the heli moves way more near center stick then most heli's
I'll certainly have to give that a try..I think I have them set @ 30%...when I flip it, it just moves so fast that I have a hard time maintaining control...With the 130 I can flip it and maintain control a lot better...it just seems more stable and not as twitchy...I'll dial in more expo and give that a try.


I still need to master other things really, before I get too wild with my flips...I just had to do it, because on a sim, I can do them all day long...but not on a 'real' heli...I need to learn how to fly it forwards, towards me and to the right and left of me too...still not real good at controlling it with different orientations...YET!
I started 15+ years ago on a concept 30, then got rid of that, went to a Thunder Tiger Raptor 30, got rid of that, tried the MS Composite...BIG...EXPENSIVE mistake...got rid of that...got the Heli Max CP...got rid of that, got the Blade 400 3D...still have that, but scared to crash it...flown about 4 or 5 times just barely hovering it...Got the Msr, then the McpX, then the Blade 130X...oh yeah, somewhere along the line I got a T-rex 250...STILL, after 3 years, I have not been able to get it to fly Bought it used and it was a mess...every time I try to spool it up, it will tip over, and then I have to replace blades, flybar, spindle, tail blades etc...bout to give up on that thing I'd even trade all that plus the HK 250 kit, NIB, (no elec) and the 4 batteries and spare parts galore for the 250...all for a 130x, in good, flying condition! OR...partial trade on a 300X in good, flying condition

Wow...sorry about all the rambling
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 05:11 PM
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United States, AZ, Mesa
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I get a little tail blow out when doing hard flips so maybe that's what is happening, just don't go so hard and it should be ok. With the nano i mean.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 06:06 PM
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United States, TX, Belton
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hmmm...really haven't gotten the tail to blow out on the nano...I'm just not real accurate with it yet...
I do get some shuddering on my 130x when I flip it...might need to turn up the gain on the tail a touch...Then again...I should just leave it alne and just learn to fly it properly
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 06:38 PM
2 seconds from crashing
indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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Originally Posted by jasmine2501 View Post
I get a little tail blow out when doing hard flips so maybe that's what is happening, just don't go so hard and it should be ok. With the nano i mean.
if you're getting tail blowout on the Nano then most likely you have vibration somewhere. On my brushless conversion it is more sensitive to vibrations so I've learned quickly to find and eliminate them otherwise it would be constant tail blowouts. I would suggest looking into the feathering shaft make sure it's not binding a little bit.

Both of my Nano's once there's no vibrations have absolutely no tail blowout
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 08:15 AM
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United States, CA, Tehachapi
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
if you're getting tail blowout on the Nano then most likely you have vibration somewhere. On my brushless conversion it is more sensitive to vibrations so I've learned quickly to find and eliminate them otherwise it would be constant tail blowouts. I would suggest looking into the feathering shaft make sure it's not binding a little bit.

Both of my Nano's once there's no vibrations have absolutely no tail blowout
What differences do you noticed from your BL conversion versus the stock besides a cooler running motor. Is it more crisp in performance and handling?
Battery life?

Bob
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 12:24 PM
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indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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It is a lot more stable due to the HS increase. It is also way more powerful/snappy with an 8 tooth pinion....I mean stock isnt even remotely close. The down fall is it needs slightly bigger batteries to keep the 8 tooth, propably a 220mAh battery would be prime.

Though for me mine are almost 100% indoor birds, so weight increase is not an option. I just pulled it all apart last night to change out the motor shaft and put on the stock 7 tooth.

My bet it will still out perform the stock motor by quite a bit since 8 tooth was nuts.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 12:39 PM
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I'm going to Shreveport tomorrow and was going to stop at Granger for some o-rings for my control balls. Can someone tell me what size works best?
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 04:04 PM
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United States, FL, West Palm Beach
Joined Feb 2012
271 Posts
001 for the tail blade grips, 002 cut in half like a bagel for the slider and rear servo link, 003 for every where else.

I didn't put them on the bottom of the pitch links cause they rubbed on the swash, having them on just the top of the pitch links seemed to do the job just fine.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 05:31 PM
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United States, CA, Tehachapi
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
It is a lot more stable due to the HS increase. It is also way more powerful/snappy with an 8 tooth pinion....I mean stock isnt even remotely close. The down fall is it needs slightly bigger batteries to keep the 8 tooth, propably a 220mAh battery would be prime.

Though for me mine are almost 100% indoor birds, so weight increase is not an option. I just pulled it all apart last night to change out the motor shaft and put on the stock 7 tooth.

My bet it will still out perform the stock motor by quite a bit since 8 tooth was nuts.
Yeah, I agree with the weight thing. The seven tooth should work well with the standard batteries and give more torque which is important to me. Stock is still really quick. I have gone through two main boards and I found out the crashes break the solder joints or separate the transistors from the board. Coredump is going to try and salvage mine. I understand he good at this.

Bob
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 01:31 PM
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...The seven tooth should work well with the standard batteries and give more torque which is important to me. ....
Bob
How does a 7 tooth pinion versus an 8 tooth pinion give more torque?

As I understand things, the torque is the power produced by the motor. This power is consumed by the rotor system to move the helicopter. For an ungoverned system (like in the 130x) the motor will turn a given rpm for a given current input. If you change the pinion you get a faster headspeed with the 8 tooth gear vs a 7 tooth gear (the main gear turns more per motor revolution). For a given flight regime you will need less pitch with a higher headspeed but the required torque will be essentially the same.

The higher headspeed will produce more drag and friction so you will not end up with the full increase in headspeed rpm you would expect from doing the math on the gear ratios.

The higher headspeed will give quicker control response so it may seem like the motor power (torque) is increased, but this is not the case.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 01:39 PM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
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How does a 7 tooth pinion versus an 8 tooth pinion give more torque?

...
The smaller diameter gear has a shorter lever arm to the gear's teeth.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 01:42 PM
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United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Jul 2007
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Originally Posted by erkq View Post
The smaller diameter gear has a shorter lever arm to the gear's teeth.
Yeah we're taking about the torque of the whole drive train, not just the motor. With fewer teeth on your drive gear, you have more torque/leverage, but you will have a lower top speed.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jasmine2501 View Post
Yeah we're taking about the torque of the whole drive train, not just the motor. With fewer teeth on your drive gear, you have more torque/leverage, but you will have a lower top speed.
Yup, horsepower is horsepower and it's all got to come out in the wash. But maybe more torque and less speed is a good thing in some cases.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 03:05 PM
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Berkeley, CA
Joined Oct 2004
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I had my first crash of the 130x this morning, the front servo die in mid air, heli has logged 70+ flights. It happened after one minute flying on the 2nd pack, after I rolled the heli upright, the collective acted very funny, the heli was jumping up and down like doing a pitch pump except she wont come down with low stick, I had no idea how to bring her down and hit TH, she landed upright kind of hard but apparently no damage.

I was wondering, my 130x is kind of nose heavy, she flys fine in the air, would that make the front servo work harder?
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