Originally Posted by anthony7820

Check the little anti-rotation ball on the tail assembly. I had the exact same problem with the tail blowing out and I went over the tail a couple of times and noticed that the little anti-rotation ball had broken off. So I disassembled the part and took a 1/16 drill bit and drilled the plastic by hand until I got up to the bearing, then glued in a piece of small music wire. TADA!!, no more slop in the tail, actually it was a lot better than before.

Also did some dampening with half mcpx grommets, pictures attached. Hopefully this helps, I hate seeing people not being able to fly.

Thanks. That part is fine - they replaced that while it was there.

They are sending me a new board. They said if that doesn't fix it then they'll need to get the heli back. I told them that if sent the heli back that they will be sending me my money back.

Originally Posted by turnerm

Thanks. That part is fine - they replaced that while it was there.

They are sending me a new board. They said if that doesn't fix it then they'll need to get the heli back. I told them that if sent the heli back that they will be sending me my money back.

This is literally my story circa 2008 with the "Blade SR, the next logical step from coaxial". Only I didn't ask for my money back. I wasn't going to let a little "whirlygig" beat me!

Eventually I would kick that little devils butt.....learn CP and mercifully a H/H fanboy from Fleabay relieved me of it!

I Love/Hate H/H!

Kinda like I feel about Tony Soprao and Walt White!

b

Originally Posted by turnerm

...

Off to build my 51" Slick.

Well, that will make you feel good! But you already know that.

Originally Posted by rikybob

"Blade SR, the next logical step from coaxial

This was meant as a joke right? lol

Originally Posted by liduno

This was meant as a joke right? lol

It was terrible, just terrible.

Almost put me off CP and heli's in general.

I kicked it's butt then discovered clones and haven't looked back since!

b

Originally Posted by rikybob

It was terrible, just terrible.

Almost put me off CP and heli's in general.

I kicked it's butt then discovered clones and haven't looked back since!

b

Every time I'm in the hobby store and see some one buying parts for an Sr I have to bite my tongue..lol

Originally Posted by liduno

Every time I'm in the hobby store and see some one buying parts for an Sr I have to bite my tongue..lol

I saw that happen one day and the LHS owner convinced them to buy something else

Today I replaced all four gears on my 130X. Upon completion I observed the following.

There is no mold line on the side of the A gear.
I was able to slip a sheet of paper between the A gear and FET on the servo board.
The mesh between the A and B gear was correct without adjustment of the boom.

The parts were received by my LHS this week. Could it be HH is tweaking dimensions of the parts based on problems reported or the manufacturer is holding tolerances better?

Originally Posted by rikybob

It was terrible, just terrible.

Almost put me off CP and heli's in general.

I kicked it's butt then discovered clones and haven't looked back since!

b

I tried to warn a friend off the Blade SR but he didn't listen. It put him off the hobby for a good 9 months. He's back and doing well with a 130. He listens to me now...

I bought some 300mah Nanotech batteries for my stock 130X. I'm going to recycle some connectors since I'm still using a stock connector in my 130X.
So I have a question - the Nanotech have both a balance lead with 3 wires, and a standard JST connector with 2 wires, red and black. The stock blade batteries have 3 wires going into the standard connector. I'm confused about where to solder the connectors to the Nanotech. Should I solder the balance lead, or the regular lead?

Originally Posted by tmsn

I bought some 300mah Nanotech batteries for my stock 130X. I'm going to recycle some connectors since I'm still using a stock connector in my 130X.
So I have a question - the Nanotech have both a balance lead with 3 wires, and a standard JST connector with 2 wires, red and black. The stock blade batteries have 3 wires going into the standard connector. I'm confused about where to solder the connectors to the Nanotech. Should I solder the balance lead, or the regular lead?

Regular. red to red, black to black. The white wire on the stock battery is the balance wire for the stock charger.

Originally Posted by anthony7820

Regular. red to red, black to black. The white wire on the stock battery is the balance wire for the stock charger.

Thanks - does that mean I won't be able to charge the battery with the stock charger?

Originally Posted by tmsn

Thanks - does that mean I won't be able to charge the battery with the stock charger?

You might still be able to. I'm not entirely sure. I know I use my regular charger on the stock batteries just by connecting the red and black wires. So I am assuming it will work.

Just watch it carefully the first time you go to charge it

Originally Posted by anthony7820

Regular. red to red, black to black. The white wire on the stock battery is the balance wire for the stock charger.

It's actually the balance tap for any charger and should be kept, especially if you want to charge at more than 1C. I use the thicker power wires for the red and black to the UMX connector but run the white wire from the balance connector to the white wire of the UMX connector so you can balance charge it and use the thicker wires for power delivery. Sounds weird, but it works great.

Originally Posted by erkq

I tried to warn a friend off the Blade SR but he didn't listen. It put him off the hobby for a good 9 months. He's back and doing well with a 130. He listens to me now...

+1000!

What a horrid machine! Buying the Blade SR is the worst purchase decision I've made so far in 28 years of flying RC. Thanks to that wretched excuse for a flying machine, my heli skills are at least a year behind where they should have been by now.

Joel