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Old Apr 11, 2012, 11:28 AM
aka Helidaho
AeroVideoUS's Avatar
United States, ID, Boise
Joined Jun 2010
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Originally Posted by juz70 View Post
my one is 1315grams (no OSD) (see post #24 for details)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vantasstic View Post
That's good. Did you put helium filled ballons in it or something?
I've got you both beat! Here's mine and it's only 300ish grams! Hah!

Paul
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 11:48 AM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
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Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
18,205 Posts
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Originally Posted by Helidaho View Post
I've got you both beat! Here's mine and it's only 300ish grams! Hah!

Paul
Cheater...that's not full AUW weight. Let us know when you're ready to compare to the big boys!!!!
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 11:59 AM
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Joined Nov 2011
44 Posts
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=385482

About to get started on mine, I got the arms together last night. Have my VC450 tuned pretty solid with the CC, so I will leave it together and fly it/ (Crash it), while I put this one together and tune its CC. Weather is finally starting the get nice here, now if my work would cooperate............
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 12:57 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
Vantasstic's Avatar
Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
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Originally Posted by drkdgglr View Post
Thanks. At first I thought I would be safe with a 12 amp esc, as you measured max average of 8amp/motor. But then I realized that in flight, one motor will always be pulling more amps than the other. So the average may be 8a, but the peak of one motor could be much higher....
Yeah, just to clarify. An ESC is just a switching device that turns on and off. When on it's passing current through the motor. When off no current to the motor. Of course it switches on and off very fast...the longer the duty cycle (on longer than off) the more current is shown. For example: if always on the max amps are 12A. When at half throttle (on half the time, off half the time) the shown amps may only be 6A, but the actual amps passed are still 12A while the ESC is switched on. So...amps are a measurement of current over a given period of time. An 10A esc would not be good on a power system pulling 12A max...even if you only fly at a half throttle draw of 6A as the system is still drawing the full 12A when on.

As for in flight...unless you're doing some aerobatics (flips/rolls/etc) I don't think the current draw from one motor to another will be a large difference. If the absolute max amps a motor/prop combination draws is 8 amps then a 12A ESC should be fine. My motor tests where actual flight tests. I probably never hit full throttle during the flights...probably close to 3/4 +/- throttle stick for the majority of 'high' throttle maneuvers...so take add a couple of amps to my max readings to be on the safe side of MAX draw per motor.
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 04:43 PM
LOAD "FLIP-FPV",8,1
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Joined Sep 2006
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Originally Posted by man1024 View Post
I want this frame, but always out of stock.
We just listed them on the website, but people are buying them as soon as fast as we list them. We will be adding them almost every day, so be sure to click the link "notify me when the product is available".. We have 25 frames here but we are waiting on aluminum spacers before we can put them into inventory, so probably tomorrow.

I will be cutting more tonight as well.

Tom
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 04:57 PM
LOAD "FLIP-FPV",8,1
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Originally Posted by The RevKev View Post
Same issue here LemaLife. Fortunately, I ordered some extra parts for my VC-450 and had some to "borrow."

Everything was neatly packaged, but just was short a few pieces.

I've also struggled a bit to get the legs to "snap" into place. I'm afraid to put too much pressure on it for fear of busting it and having to wait for replacement parts. I don't want to trim it to make it go easier as I want it snug, but man, it is tight...
WHOOPS!!

Glad you guys noticed the spacer count. I must have counted before I added the spacers for the rubber grommets.

Will correct that in the kit. Sorry about that.

Also, regarding them arms snapping in... don't worry you are not going to break it. You WILL have to flex the center plate while pressing the arms into place firmly the first time. You will hear a loud CLICK as they snap in. This is ok... because after you fly it for awhile the G10 will wear and the edges will compress and the arms will fit perfectly. Not all of them will be this hard to get in, but better a bit tight than loose with this design.
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 05:01 PM
LOAD "FLIP-FPV",8,1
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Regarding those with weird flying issues, remember your pitch and roll gains will be slightly different.. this quad is wider than it is long.

Also, if you are having strange issues, make sure your ESC's are all grounded together at the signal leads... some esc's work fine with just signal, but other require both signal and ground to work correctly.

Also, enable autolevel for the first few flights... this will help you get flying and you can get an idea if it's a motor/esc issue or just a gains issue.
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 06:37 PM
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AlanFlorida's Avatar
USA, FL, Palm Harbor
Joined Jul 2004
2,065 Posts
Don't make this mistake by being too excited about getting your frame built.

Top plate is on there good but darnů..I forgot the arms!!

I love this frame but I sure wish the arms were Auto Attaching
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 08:29 PM
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United States, CA, Anaheim
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blucross View Post
You know I haven't tried hanging on to the frame and feeling for vibes, but that solution sure sounds better than the chickens and goats I was about to sacrifice in an effort to get this thing going. I'm going to tighten everything up again and look for any possible vibes.

The only odd snafu during the build was that I shaved one of the arm tabs 1mm to short and it doesn't snap into its socket snugly.

Either way, vibes are the only culprit left at this point so off I go.
I have the same issue, no idea yet. Completely reset all my settings on CC, thing just wants to pitch and go forward. I feel its pretty balanced according to the CG line.
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 08:33 PM
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United States, CA, Anaheim
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by Vantasstic View Post
Just weighed my frame. AUW is 1390g...that's frame, GoPro camera, 4S 2650mAh pack, OSD, video stuff, etc...the complete, RTF package. It'd be interesting to hear what other's AUW is too. I always seem to come out on the heavy side.
mine is 1405 grams, OSD, GPS, 3000 mAh, and a 370 mAh for camera
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 08:48 PM
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United States, CA, Anaheim
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Originally Posted by vic20owner View Post
Regarding those with weird flying issues, remember your pitch and roll gains will be slightly different.. this quad is wider than it is long.

Also, if you are having strange issues, make sure your ESC's are all grounded together at the signal leads... some esc's work fine with just signal, but other require both signal and ground to work correctly.

Also, enable autolevel for the first few flights... this will help you get flying and you can get an idea if it's a motor/esc issue or just a gains issue.
Maybe folks can post some screenshots of the Copter Control Stabilization panel. Since we all have the same frame and similar parts it would probably help some of us. I'm just flying in Altitude mode and I can't get it from pitching forward. I'm playing with the AccelBias setting since I just reset the board completely.
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 09:23 PM
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United States, CA, NEWBERRY SPGS
Joined Feb 2012
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shdwkeeper,

I'm a newby so consider the source and bee easy on me if you've done all this already :<)

This may have nothing to do with your problem, and I know nothing about OP CC boards, but this is how I cured a similar problem with my advanced zoom MW 1.9

1. Set radio trims to neutral
2. Run through the pre-flight calibrations
3. Attempt to hover in ACCRO and take note which way it wants to go
4. Land if you need to and course adjust with transmitter trims... repeat as necessary
5. Make fine adjustments with "beat sticking" method and proceed to ATTI mode and enjoy hovering hands free...

Remember, I'm a newby so go easy on me if I'm completely off base.

csned1
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 09:47 PM
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United States, CA, Anaheim
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by csned1 View Post
shdwkeeper,

I'm a newby so consider the source and bee easy on me if you've done all this already :<)

This may have nothing to do with your problem, and I know nothing about OP CC boards, but this is how I cured a similar problem with my advanced zoom MW 1.9

1. Set radio trims to neutral
2. Run through the pre-flight calibrations
3. Attempt to hover in ACCRO and take note which way it wants to go
4. Land if you need to and course adjust with transmitter trims... repeat as necessary
5. Make fine adjustments with "beat sticking" method and proceed to ATTI mode and enjoy hovering hands free...

Remember, I'm a newby so go easy on me if I'm completely off base.

csned1
I'm just as new as you I probably need to just reset my transmitter and start over, all trims are neutral though
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 03:24 PM
LOAD "FLIP-FPV",8,1
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Joined Sep 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blucross View Post
Van, My AUW with similar RTF config is 1410g. I made a wiring harness which I think is a bit on the heavy side.

In other news, I am still having major issues getting my FPV frame to fly. Seems like no matter which combination of gear I install it flies very squirrely and loose, wanting to yaw and pitch back the whole time.
You didn't mention what your gain settings are, also do you have a camera installed?

On my Naza I am running gains at 200%, and 250% for vertical gain.

Flies fine in both autolevel mode and manual mode.

Without camera installed it will fly weird. It is designed to balance with camera. If it's trying to fly backwards you should slide battery forward or add weight up front... you may be using a battery which is too heavy to balance near correct CG.
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 03:27 PM
Mmmmmmm!
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Kingdom of Sweden, Dalarna County, Sater
Joined Oct 2011
3,352 Posts
I actually put my Naza on the frame today and it flies much much better. With default pids manual is fine and it holds the altitude without any problems. There's no drift up or down. It's just a little touchy with 1400kv motors, I've noticed Naza works best with motors around 900-1100kv. 1400kv almost makes it want to take off. Hitting failsafe actually made it take off before it adjusted itself to the new motors. (Don't ask me how, it just did, after a few short circuits in ATTI mode it seems like the failsafe rpm changed and it now slowly drops to the ground when failsafe is engaged, like it should.)

Yaw is a little weird, I'm gonna tinker with the yaw gains tomorrow. Ah, that thing about signal + ground, good to know. I've got signal wires only hooked up to my Naza, I'll reconnect the ground wires tomorrow.
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