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Trouble shooting checklist:
First check to see that your motors are in the correct order. Some FC (fight controllers) count from one clockwise, some counter CW. Now make sure you are setup for X or +. Mine Naza reverted once. Make sure motor one goes to the correct servo connector. Make sure your Rud, Elev, and Alis are all correct. Make sure your FC is pointing the correct direction. Calibrate Esc, if necessary before hooking them to the FC. Spin up the motors without props. How do you tell the direction? Put your hand lightly on them and you can feel it, give very little throttle. Never full throttle without props, they can get too hot without air flow. Make sure your props are balanced and facing up. You can figure which way they need to turn just by rotating them by hand and see how they would bite the air, forward edge up. With Naza and MK: make sure you calibrate your Transmitter in the software, checking the channels. The throws need to be in certain perimeters. Other misc things: battery charged and correct voltage? Tx on first? For mine, Esc plugged in and powered before Naza? I think that takes care of most major issues? I've made all of these mistakes that can be made at least once, so don't feel bad! I Have 6 multicopters, two gaui-340, 1 Naza, 1 Multiwii and two Mikrokopters. |
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The new HoverThings "FLIP FPV" frame...
Arms do not bend or flex, less drag, and are nearly unbreakable. We haven't succeeded in breaking one yet after many many crashes of multiple quads into concrete, signs, trees, other quads, etc. It will accept landing gear from the new "FLIP" frame. |
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Latest blog entry: Transplanting a Spektrum Dx4E Rf Deck...
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Oh, Tom, how tall are the snap on legs...from ground to bottom surface of the arm? |
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Latest blog entry: Transplanting a Spektrum Dx4E Rf Deck...
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Hi guys
The arms are G10. No, they do not match the DJI frame hole spacing, because that would take up a massive amount of space between the center plates (my holes are much closer together). The landing gear is Delrin, and snaps into place without removnig the arms. It can be installed and removed in seconds, no tools. The arms can be removed by removing three screws (one hex driver, no pliers or anything else). Just in case the HT-FPV owners wanted to use the new style center plates, I made the FPV center plates accept HT-FPV arms. So if you wanted to, you could switch center plates, and then later switch to the new arms. I dont know if anyone will actually do this and I may just remove those arm slots eventunally.. but for now they are there. It would be easier to just drill new holes through the DJI center plates.. but you *might* have to use plastic hardware since the DJI center plates act as a dist board. The landing gear is short, about the length of the DJI landing gear. Just enough to clear a 2800mah battery. Other gear options will be avialble eventually. We just really wanted a "sporty" and strong FPV frame. Crashed mine again the other day when I lost a prop at 75 feet. No damage
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I asked in an e-mail, but maybe better answered here...got any weight ranges on the new FPV frame? edit: re the Flip arm vs DJI arm bolt spacing. I'm not looking for a DJI 'replica' arm. I was just curious if the Flip arm bolt holes would line up with the upper four space mount holes in the DJI arm. The frame I'm trying now uses DJI arms, but it isn't a DJI frame. The upper and lower plates are ~1.5" apart, separated by spacers. I'd be looking at mounting the flat Flip arms only to the upper plate on the frame using the existing DJI mount hole spacing. Still...looking forward to seeing more on the arms and your new frames. |
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