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Old Apr 01, 2012, 12:29 PM
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Build Log
Dollar Tree foam board Wing Build

Hi all,

This build came about because I was wanting to build a flying wing for FPV like the one my buddy, Mark (of the Pecan Patch) uses for his paint ball shoot. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1551613. Unable to find fan fold foam at the big box stores, I started looking for other materials that I had access to locally. A 20x30 Dollar Tree foam board is what I found.

This board is not as big as the fan fold board, and I didn't want to piece together the wing panels, so I tried to down side the paintball wing to fit on one piece of board/panel.

I tried a 25% reduction and by doing so I some how mistakenly change the sweep to the wing, which changer the C/G, which changed component location, which changed my build techniques of the Paintball wing completely.


This Wing can be produces from 4 sheets of foam board, some ply scraps, several bamboo food sticks, tape ( Duct and Packing) and white Gorilla Glue 2x.

Here I will be posting the build of this wing that I and others think flies extremely well and has a large flight envelope.

Here is the layout of the foam board. I will post a drawing of the layout so it is easier to read later.
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Last edited by textripp; Apr 03, 2012 at 03:18 PM.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 10:46 AM
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United States, GA, Locust Grove
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1:
Cut out all parts: 4 Wing Panels 4 Spars, 4 Elevons, 2 Vertical Stabs, Electronics boxing material from 2 sheets.

Pre assemble: Spars, Elevons and E-box material. There will be 3 pairs of E-box material, glue only two pairs together.

Look at pieces you have cut out and match them up if possible to where the cupping of the parts is facing each other, so when they are glued together they will end up flat.

NOTE: Make sure you have a right and left, upper and lower wing panel before removing inside paper of wing panels.

Remove paper from the Elevons, E-box material and Spars sides you will be glueing together. This will cause the parts to cup even more. Now glue matched parts together and weight to hold flat till glue dries. After glue has dried, trim squeez out and sand edges flat and smooth.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 10:54 AM
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2:
Mark spar location on bottom wing panels (paper down), from the leading edge 2 ½” at root cord and 1” at tip. This is the front of the spar location.
Turn panels over (paper up) and with packing tape, tape root cord trailing edge up to spar location. Fold panels together and along tape, glue panels together. Lay flat and weight till dry.
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Last edited by textripp; Apr 03, 2012 at 01:20 PM.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 10:57 AM
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United States, GA, Locust Grove
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3:
Build Motor Mount: 2 ½ x 1 ¼ x 1/8 Ply 1ea
1 ¼ x 1 ¼ x 1/8 Ply 2ea
1 ¼ x 10 Foam board 1ea
1 ¼ x 4 ¼ Foam board 2 ea
5/8” x 1 ¼ E-box material 2 ea
Glue Ply mount together.
Remove paper from one side of foam board. Glue ply mount to 10” foam centering. Let dry. Then glue 4 ½” pieces on both sides of mount. Cut two 5/8” pieces of box material, remove one side of paper from each and glue together. This will be placed behind the motor mount and help stiffen the electronic box. Let dry and trim squeeze out and motor mount to 10”, sand smooth.
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Last edited by textripp; Apr 03, 2012 at 01:23 PM.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:02 AM
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4:
Now that your motor mount is complete and your E-box material is together, its time to layout and cut the E-box walls. The inside of the E-box is 7” wide, centered. The side walls and front are cut to fit. The spars will help make up the E-box walls, so its easer to cut to fit, than give measurements. When the spars are mitered in the center, the spars will come up short at tips…. Don’t worry about that, well fix it later.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:11 AM
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5:
With E-box material cut to fit, time to glue up.
Lay wax paper on your lower panels and remove paper from foam where you will be gluing. Start gluing and pinning lining up as you go. When complete weight flat.

Note: Cut hole in box walls for wires to pass through prier to gluing together....Upps!
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Last edited by textripp; Apr 03, 2012 at 12:22 PM.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:39 AM
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6: Glue E-box and spars to lower wing panels.
Start by gluing and weighting the e-box to the lower panels. Do not glue the spars at this time, just the parts that make up the e-box and about an inch or two more. Pinning the box before weighting it will keep it from moving while the glue dries.

Now glue spars to lower panels. My building surface, AKA kitchen table, only allows me to glue one wing panel at a time.
To fix the tip spars I cut some of my E-box material into triangles and glued and pined in place. Trim when dry.

Wing Stiffener Doublers: 2 ¼ sq x 1/8 ply. Take out 1 ¼ sq.
Once spar are complete cut and glue two ply doublers/stiffeners in place.
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Last edited by textripp; Apr 03, 2012 at 04:56 PM.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:40 AM
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7:
Planning the attachment of the upper wing panels can be a job.

First run a string and tape it in place so that when its time to install the servos you have a way to pull our wires through.

Line up the top panel with the lower panel and pin in place. Mark out the E-box location so that when you cut out the hatch, it has some support it when it is closed and the upper panel has something to be glued to.

Remove the panel and cut out the hatch and then re-pin the panel in place and repeat the process with the other side.

After I cut out my hatches, with both panels in place, I draw a line around the inside of the hatch opening to make it easer to line up when I glue the panels in place.

Now glue your panels to the spars and E-box.

After the panels are attached, it time to start thinking about closing the leading and trailing edges.

Work the foam from the spar to the leading edge to make it easer for the tape to hold the panels together while the glue dries.
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Last edited by textripp; Apr 05, 2012 at 05:00 PM.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:41 AM
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8:
Now close the leading edge by gluing and taping. After it has dried remove tape, sand squeeze out, and add food sticks by gluing and taping in place. After this dries remove tape and sand to a radius leading edge.

NOTE: I use blue painters tape because it is not as sticky as regular masking, but it will still lift the paper if not careful.

NOTE NOTE: Since I am planning to use this wing as a FPV platform, I’m adding these blocks to support my antenna mast and a doubler to stiffen the E-box wall because of the additional material I removed so I can install and remove my Video Tx wires. I am also adding Great Stuff Foam to the L/E because it makes the L/E almost bullet proof without adding a lot of extra weight, but it is NOT NESSARY.
If you plan to install the G/S foam alone the L/E, plan accordingly and do it in old cloth and out side, the stuff gets everywhere. I closed about 15” of the L/E and then added G/S and then closed a little more of the L/E and added G/S until I reached the tips.

To clean the Great Stuff from the applicator tube and can nozzle USE ACETONE BEFORE IT SKINS OVER.
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Last edited by textripp; Apr 11, 2012 at 02:01 PM.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:41 AM
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SUB'd!

This looks to the easiest build using that crappy Dollar Tree foam board that I have a bunch of sheets of

It looks like the wingspan is approximately 60 inches? What kind of electronics do you use, or do you plan on using?
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:41 AM
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The Electronics:

Motor: Turnigy C2830-1050 GWS HD 9x6.5prop,127watts, 26 oz thrust
ESC: Mag 8 30A
Battery: Turnigy 1.3 1300mAh 3s 30c
Rx: Orange RX DSM2 6Ch
Servos:Hextronik HXT 900 9G/w 12" extentions

Plenty of power to fly the aircraft. Unlimited vertical. At high power flights I get about 10 minutes with this setup and I've flown as long as 25 minutes at altitude cruising at 1/3 power. but a little under powered for my FPV equipment.

I will be putting a bigger motor and battery in the FPV ship.
Motor: Turnigy D2836/9 950KV GWS HD 9x7.5prop,243watts,33.46 Thrust
Battery: ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 30C
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Last edited by textripp; Apr 21, 2012 at 07:30 AM.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:42 AM
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9:
With your elevons in set in place, plan you servo installation. I traced mine out with the servos lying down so I could install them flush with the top panel. After cutting out the servo hole and the servos set in place, hold the trailing edge closed to see how much the servos will have to shimmed to attach them to the lower panel. NOTE: The amount of shimming will vary on servo placement. Once servos are shimmed correctly, remove them, then glue and tape the T/E closed. To complete the closing of the wing, 2 rib lets will have to be made and installed for the root. Next cut a 45 degree angle on the lower L/E of the elevon to allow for full control surface through.


With the wing complete its time to covering it or not. I will be using colored packing tape over the paper. http://www.fastpack.net.

On my proto type, I didn’t cover it to save time and money, so when the paper got wet from morning dew, it started coming off. I was intending to remove the paper and then cover it, but a tree jumped in front of plane on a hot dog flight and ate it. So I am not sure how much the airframe will be weakened by removing the paper, (future project).
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Last edited by textripp; Apr 11, 2012 at 02:34 PM.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:43 AM
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With the wing complete its time to covering it or not. I will be using colored packing tape over the paper. http://www.fastpack.net. This tape is not real sticky and it is my first time using it. I covered the T/E first with a single piece wrapped over the edge, half folded on top and half on bottom. I then covered the bottom, aft working forward overlapping the tape so that the air flow would not lift the tape and then repeated with the top. I then used one piece of silver Duct Tape on the L/E, lapping half on top and half on bottom. The elevons were covered next in the same way. I then attached them using the packing tape, tapping the bottom first and then the top.

On my proto type, I didn’t cover it to save time and money, so when the paper got wet from morning dew, it started coming off. I was intending to remove the paper and then cover it, but a tree jumped in front of plane on a hot dog flight and ate it. So I am not sure how much the airframe will be weakened by removing the paper, (future project).
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Last edited by textripp; Apr 21, 2012 at 06:43 AM.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:43 AM
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Now add electronics, trim elevons slight up from neutral and glue on your vertical tips.
I then used the wing C/G calculate to try to get it close.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=973140
I glued Velcro in the entire bottom of the E-box to allow me to move my components around to obtain needed C/G
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Last edited by textripp; Apr 21, 2012 at 07:12 AM.
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 11:47 AM
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United States, GA, Locust Grove
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Here she is, ready to go. Enjoy this inexpensive, fun to fly (and crash) wing. Please post comments and pictures of you Dollar Tree Wing. Any build techniques and improvements are welcome.

Motor: Turnigy C2830-1050 GWS HD 9x6.5 prop,127watts, 26 oz thrust
ESC: Mag 8 30A
Battery: Turnigy 1.3 1300mAh 3s 30c
Rx: Orange RX DSM2 6Ch
Servos:Hextronik HXT 900 9G/w 12" extensions

FPV ship.
Motor: Turnigy D2836/9 950KV GWS HD 9x7.5 prop,243watts,33.46 Thrust
Battery: ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 30C
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Last edited by textripp; Apr 21, 2012 at 07:29 AM.
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