SMALL - espritmodel.com SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Mar 25, 2012, 07:47 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
Build Log
1922 Gold Cup Racer "MISS SEVERN"

Well here we are again with another build in it's entirety for the 1922 Hacker Gold Cupper “Miss Severn”, originally raced under the name of “Arab VI”, coming in second to the “Packard Chris Craft” for the cup.

The model was designed using the original plans which were supplied for free by Motor Boating Magazine in 1923, for the newly established rules for the “Gentleman’s Racers” for the APBA Gold Cup. John L Hacker was called upon by the magazine to draw up the plans for the new class, since his design , even though losing the Packard Chris Craft, had turned in the fast lap speed of all the contestants.

As I start posting the build I am in the finishing stages of the prototype model to be entered at the Toledo WEAK Signals Expo, at which time we will be taking orders for the kit release a month or so later.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Last edited by frankg; Aug 25, 2012 at 08:00 PM.
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:08 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
1. Prepare a laminated partial board shelf 12” wide by 46” long, purchased at your local home building supply. Draw a center line down the length of the board. Using a square, draw a perpendicular line 1” in from the end of the board and then every 2” for the length of the board. These will be your reference lines to keep the frames square to the keel.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:15 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
2. The keel and stem post are the first items to be assembled. Both the keel and the stem post are made from two pieces (left and right side) of laser cut 3/16” thick hard balsa, which have to be glued together to make a 3/8” thick keel and stem post. The parts are located on laser sheets S6 & S7
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:18 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
3. The balsa keel parts (KL) & (KR) are glued together with medium CA glue on a flat waxed paper surface, making sure to alien the two keel haves perfectly. The same is done with the two laser cut stem posts (L & R).
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:20 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
4. Now on a flat waxed paper surface assemble and glue the stem post to the keel assembly with medium CA glue.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:23 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
5. Now take the keel doubler (KDL) from laser sheet S2 and place it on the flat waxed paper surface, Take the assembled keel and stem post assembly and place it position next to the keel doubler. Using 12 minute epoxy glue, carefully coat the keel doubler, taking care not to put any glue on the inside of the dotted laser lines for the rudder stuffing box, propeller stuffing box, and the motor mount cut out of the keel. Once glued place the balsa keel assembly on to the keel doubler aliening the frame slots perfectly. Weight can be place on the balsa keel to assure a good bond of the glued surfaces.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:25 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
6. Once the epoxy glue has hardened, carefully cut out the propeller stuffing box and rudder stuffing box slots from the 3/8” balsa keel. DO NOT CUT THRU THE KEEL DOUBLER.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:29 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
7. With the stuffing box slots cut out of the balsa keel, proceed to take the second keel doubler (KDR) and position it on top of the balsa keel aliening the slots and mark were the front of the keel doubler is on the balsa keel. Precede to coat with epoxy glue the balsa keel, taking care not to put glue into the stuffing box slots, up to the marked front of the keel douber. Once in position and the slots are aliened, weight can be place on the keel doubler to assure a good glue bond of the parts. This will complete the boxed keel and stem post assembly.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:35 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
8. The next items to be assembled are the left and right shears. The parts used are from laser sheet S3, and are for the left shear (LS1, LS2. & LS3) and for the right shear (RS1, RS2, &RS3). On a flat waxed paper surface assemble the left and right shears with medium CA glue joining the #1 and 2 parts on their splice joint and then gluing the #3 part splice doubler on top of the joint, making sure that the piece is in-between the frame slots of the shear.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:43 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
9. Frames #F7, F8, F9, & F10, must be prepped before being assembled on the building board. All the frames will have laser etched outlines of the areas to receive the glue blocking for the side interior ceiling boards. The blocking is made from 1/4” x 1/4” x 36” balsa square stock. Once the blocking is cut to the lengths indicated by the laser etched lines, they are glued in place using medium CA glue.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:47 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
10. The remaining frames must be removed from the laser cut sheets. Carefully start placing the frames in their respective slots in the keel and stem post assembly. Once all the frames are installed invert the entire keel, stem post and frames assembly onto the building board. Line up the stem post center line over the drawn center line of the building board. Tack glue the foot of the stem post in position on the building board. Next take the left shear assembly and carefully install it into the shear line slots of each of the frames. DO NOT GLUE IN PLACE AT THIS TIME. Now assemble the right shear into the frame slots.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:49 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
11. At the transom frame #F11, make sure that the center of the frame is on the center line of the building board and parallel to the perpendicular reference lines on the building board. Tack glue frame #F11 to the building board with the medium CA glue.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:50 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
12. At frame #F6, make sure that the center of the frame is over the center line of the building board, and parallel to the perpendicular reference lines and tack glue the feet of the frame down to the building board with the medium CA glue.

frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:52 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
13. Tack glue the shears into the stem post and at frame #F11 only at this time with the medium CA glue. Make sure when gluing the shears into the frames that they are all the way into the shear slots.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:53 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
14. The next two frames to be glued down to the building board are frames #F3 and #F9. Follow the same procedure for gluing the frame to the building board as the previous frames. Now finish gluing the rest of the frames down to the building board as before. Once all the frames are glued down to the building board, proceed to glue the keel to the frames starting at frame #F6 and progressing to the stem post and the transom making sure that the keel is seated all the way into the frame slots.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:54 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
15. With all the frames glued to the building board and the keel, glue the shears into frame #F6 with medium CA glue, making sure to have them seated all the way in their slots. Proceed to glue the remaining frames to the shears with the medium CA glue.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:58 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
16. The chines are next being installed on the model using the 1/8” x 1/4" x 36” bass wood material. At the stem post the chine slot bottom must be angle cut to receive the chine batten for gluing. The end of the batten must also be cut at an angle to form a point with the matting chine from the opposite side of the hull. Because the hull is longer than the 36” bass wood batten, a splice must be done midway between frame #F8 and #F9, for the first chine run. Once the chine is fitted it can be glued in position in the chine slots, starting at the stem post and working back to frame #F8. Now measure and cut piece of the batten material to fit in between frame #F8 and #F9 for a splice joint. Glue the splice block to the back of the chine coming from the bow.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 09:00 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
17. Now glue the next chine batten butting the front chine on the splice block. Once dry glue the chine into the remaining chine slots in the frames.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 09:02 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
18. Fit the opposite chine the same as the first making sure to have a good joint at the stem post.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 09:03 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
19. The chine is built up with two laminating chine battens. Proceed to shape the front of the batten to again form a point with the opposite side chine at the stem post. one fit proceed to glue with medium CA glue starting at the stem post and working back to the transom, making sure to keep the two chines lined up to form a 1/4" x 1/4" bass wood chine. Again because the boat is longer that the 36” length of bass wood, a second piece of batten material will have to be butt glued to the back of the forward material, with the joint between frame #F10 and #F11. The chine can cut off after frame #F11.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 25, 2012, 09:08 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
20. The bottom battens can be glued into their respective slots on both sides of the keel with medium CA glue, starting flush with the front of frame #F1 and running back and over frame #F11. The side battens are also glued in their slots starting flush with the front of frame #F1 and going back and over frame #F11.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:42 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
21. All the battens, chines, shears, and keel can be cut flush with back of the transom frame #F11.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:47 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
22. All the frame work must now be block sanded true before any sub planking is to be installed. The keel must be trued to the running surface of the bottom and tapered to the sides of the hull at the stem post. The shears must also be sanded true with the frames for the planking to lay flat against the shear. A piece of the sub planking laid across the frame work at 45 degrees to the frames and the battens will show any edges which will have to be faired for the planking.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:53 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
23. The radiused transom is the next frame work to be glued in place. The laser cut parts from laser sheet S5 will be used in the construction. The radiuses are glued to the back of frame #F11 where indicated by the laser etch lines. The 4 radius parts are glued with the medium CA glue, making sure to line up the centre like of the radiuses with the center line of the transom. The rest of the blocking will be cut to fit between the radius blocking. Once glued the transom blocking must be block sanded true for radius.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 06:30 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
24. The transom and blocking should be sealed with a penetrating resin made by thinning a batch of mixed epoxy resin with Xylene thinner. The 3/32” x 4” x 36” plain balsa sheet supplied with the kit can have one side of it also coated with the penetrating resin. Once the resin has hardened, the sheet can be laid against the transom vertically with the seams on the center of the vertical blocking, and then marked over size at the top and bottom for cutting. The center is glued to the transom first and then the two side parts are butt glued on the blocking on both sides.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 06:34 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
25. With the transom planked with the balsa sub planking, block sand the sub planking true with the bottom, and sides of the hull.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 06:35 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
26. The sides and bottom of the hull are diagonally planked with the 3/32” x 5/8” x 36” hard balsa planking, starting with the front edge of the first plank at frame #F6 diagonally to the shear at frame #F7. Pencil marks the back edge of the plank where it crosses the shear, side batten, frames, and the chine. This will show where to glue with the medium CA glue when placing the sub plank. Cut the plank leaving it over hang both the shear and the chine. Run a bead of medium CA glue in-between the pencil marked areas and place the first sub plank in position making sure to have plank make contact with the side batten.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 06:38 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
27. With the first plank glued in place the second plank is butted in back of the first plank and pencil mark the back edge of the plank where it crosses any of the framing structures. Again run a bead of medium CA glue on the framing structures that the plank will be glued to and place the second plank holding in against the side batten. Continue with this procedure moving back to the transom. Note that the planking will start to go from concave to flat and then to convex as you go to the transom due to the tumble home of the transom.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 06:53 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
28. Once the side planking is completed to the transom, start with the sub planking going forward to the stem post in the same manner. When the sub planking is completed to the stem post, trim and block sand the planking true with the opposite side of the stem post so that the opposite side planking will overlap it at the stem post.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 06:54 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
29. The opposite side sub planking is done in the same manner as the first side starting with the first plank being position on the diagonal from the shear at frame #F6 to the chine at frame #F7. Once all the planking is completed, trim and block sand the planking true with the first side planking at the stem post. Also trim and block sand the planking true with the bottom of the hull at the chine. As you block sand going forward make sure that the sanding block stays true to the changing angle of the bottom as you progress to the stem post. You will notice that you will be sanding the top of the side planking at an angel closer to the stem post.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 06:57 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
30. Now start the bottom sub planking by placing a pencil mark at frame #F6 and at both chines at frame #F7. The back side of the first plank will be crossing the center line of the keel at the mark at frame #F6 and at the marks on the shears at frame #F7. Take the first plank and place it on the pencil marks and draw a cut line where the center line of the keel crosses the plank. This will be your cut mark for the angled butt joint on the keel for the bottom planking. Take a second plank and do the same marking of the angled butt joint cut line. Cut the planks on their angled cut marks. Now place the planks back in position on the bottom of the hull and pencil mark where the plank crosses any of the frame and batten structure for gluing. One at a time glue the first and second bottom planks to the frame work with medium CA glue, making sure to have a good butt joint at the center line of the keel.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 06:59 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
31. Proceed with the bottom planking in the same manner going toward the stern. When you come to the stuffing box slot and the rudder stuffing box holes the planking will start from the inside of the ply wood doublers leaving a cut out for the stuffing boxes.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:02 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
32. Once the bottom planking is done to the transom, you can start with the bottom planking going forward to the stem post. As you work forward with the planking you will notice that the planking will start to overlap the side planking from frame #F1 to the stem post. Leave the planking overlap about 3/4” over the chine line.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:07 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
33. Once all of the bottom planking is completed, the planking can be trimmed and block sanded smooth with the side planking. Also all of the side and bottom planking can be block sanded smooth using 180 grit sand paper. Go easy with the sanding block and do not put a lot of pressure against the block but rather have the sand paper cut the high spots in the sub planking.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:10 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
34. The transom can now have the side and bottom planking trimmed and block sanded true with the transom.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:14 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
35. With the bottom and side sub planking block sanded, we must mark were the chine line will run from the bottom of the hull to the stem post. This will be the cut line for the bottom planking once it has been all glued to the bottom sub planking. Take one of the mahogany planking strips and alien the top edge of the strip with the bottom of the hull and tape it to the side of the hull at around frame #F8. Continue taping the strip with the top edge even with the bottom of the hull about every 6” working forward toward the stem post.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Last edited by frankg; Mar 26, 2012 at 07:20 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:17 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
36. Keep following the sharp corner of the of the bottom and side sub planking until frame #F2 where the mahogany plank will just naturally run off to the stem post. Tape the plank in place so as not to move when making the chine cut line with a ball point pen.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:27 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
37. Once the cut line is marked the mahogany plank can be moved to the opposite side of the hull and the procedure repeated but this time make sure the plank runs off the stem post at the same point as the mark on the first side.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:31 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
38. At this point in the build before any mahogany planking is started we coated the entire hull and transom with a penetrating resin to stiffen and water proof the balsa sub planking. We used the two part Z-Poxy by Pacer which can be found in most hobby shops that carry ZAP Glues. After mixing a batch of the epoxy we thinned it with Xylene thinner to the consistency of water, we coated the outside of the hull. Once the epoxy has hardened, we gave a quick sanding with the 180 grit sand paper to eliminate any of the raised grain of the balsa wood as well as for giving the CA glue a good bite on the epoxy.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:35 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
39. Since all the planking runs on this model are over the 36” stock plank length, we must stagger the plank joints just as on the real boat. Measure in from the transom 6” on the keel center line and place a pencil mark. This will be the butt end of the first planks on both the port and starboard side of the keel.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:37 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
40. The first plank will butt the 6” mark of the keel and will run with its side edge on the center line of the keel. Tape in place with strips of masking tape as you run forward to the stem post.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:38 PM
Spreckels Lake, GGP, SF, CA
craig_c's Avatar
USA, CA, San Francisco
Joined Apr 2007
3,673 Posts
This thread added to WOODIES: Wooden Pleasure Craft Build Logs listing.

Path: RCGroups -> Boats -> Scale Boats ->"WOODIES..."
craig_c is offline Find More Posts by craig_c
RCG Plus Member
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:41 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
41. As the plank approaches the stem post do not try to follow the turn of the stem post with the edge of the plank, but let it run off and tape in place. Now with a sharp pencil, mark the turn of the stem post on the plank as well as marking the front and back of the propeller stuffing box slot on the plank.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 07:43 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
42. Once marked, remove the tapes from the plank and draw a straight line 3/16” in for the edge of the plank in between the front and back pencil marks of the stuffing box. With a Xacto knife, cut out the piece of plank between the marks for the stuffing box slot. Also cut the turn of the stem post mark on the plank leaving it a little full of the mark for sanding to fit once glued in place
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 26, 2012, 11:39 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
43. The plank is now glued in place with medium CA glue starting at the 6” pencil mark on the center line of the keel. Run a bead of the CA glue down about 6” at a time set the plank in position, wait a few seconds and then spray with the accelerator from the back of the plank. DO NOT SPRAY the accelerator where the next 6” bead of glue is to be placed. Continue gluing the plank down 6” at a time, going down along the side the propeller stuffing box slot.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 04:55 AM
Woodfumbler......
Sharky1dk's Avatar
Copenhagen. Denmark
Joined Apr 2010
1,215 Posts
You did it again !!! another kit i just got to get looking good.
Sharky1dk is offline Find More Posts by Sharky1dk
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 01:59 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
44. Continue gluing the plank down, 6” at a time working your way forward toward the stem post.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:02 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
45. The second plank must have its butting edge backed off slightly with a sanding block to produce a tight seam joint between the two planks. Butt the second plank against the first with the back edge on the pencil mark on the keel. Again tape the lank in position so that you can mark out for the stuffing box slot and the run off of the plank at the stem. The second plank will run off at the stem, overlapping the end of the first plank exactly. Once marked out, again cutout for the stuffing box slot as well as the stem post turn leaving it full of the mark for block sanding to first planks surface. Glue the second plank down in position using the same procedure as the first plank, gluing 6” at a time.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:05 PM
Registered User
Tim B.'s Avatar
Oakland Ca.
Joined Aug 2009
9,197 Posts
You make it look easy....
Tim B. is offline Find More Posts by Tim B.
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:09 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
46. Using a new mahogany plank cut and fit the filler planks butting the end of the first and second planks and running off the transom by 1/2". Glue in place with the medium CA glue.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:10 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
47. All planking from here on in, whether it is bottom, side, or deck planking, will start with the backing off of the edge of the butting plank for a good fit against the already glued down planking. Since all the planking used is shorter the hull length, the butt joints of the planks will have to be staggered, as on the real boat. Measure forward from the back of the first and second planks and place a pencil mark at the 3” mark. This will be were the butt end of the third and fourth planks will start their runs forward. With a new mahogany plank taped in place with it back edge on the penciled 3” mark, work forward taping in place every 6 “ to the turn of the stem post. As before mark the turn of the stem post with a pencil on the back of the plank. Remove the plank and cut full of the pencil mark with a Xacto knife. Once cut glue in position with the medium CA glue and then block sand the plank true with the opposite side sub planking.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:14 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
48. The fourth plank is positioned, marked, cut, and glued in position the same as the previous plank. Once the plank is glued down, go back and using a new mahogany plank, complete the third and fourth plank runs to the transom run off.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:15 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
49. Measure and place a pencil mark on 3” forward of the ends of planks three and four. This will be where the butt ends of the fifth and sixth planks will start their run toward the stem post. They will have their butting edge block sanded, fit, and glued in position as before. Again take a new plank and complete the fifth and sixth plank runs to the transom.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:15 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
50. The seventh and eighth plank runs will be started at the stem post and run aft. Remember to trim and fit the planks at the stem post with the overlapping joint. With the two planks glued in place, you can now start using the cut off planking to finish the plank runs to the transom
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:17 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
51. Measure 3” forward of the butt joint on planks seven and eight and place pencil marks where the butt ends of the ninth and tenth planks will start their run to the bow. Because of the shape of the bottom these two planks will run off and over the chine at the bow and not butt against the previous installed planks. Once the planks are trimmed off 1/2” over the chine line mark, glue the planks in place starting at the penciled butt joint marks. Two filler (stealer) planks must be trimmed to fit in the open gap between planks seven and eight, and nine and ten. Once fit glue in place with CA glue with the planks trimmed off 1/2” over the chine line.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Last edited by frankg; Mar 27, 2012 at 02:22 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:19 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
52. The rest of the bottom planking can be completed with complete planks runs with no butt joints. The plank runs will start from chine and run to transom. Remember to trim the plank full of the chine and over run the transom. With all the bottom planks glued in place, you can now trim and block sand true the plank ends at the transom and even with the sides of the sub planking at the chines forward to where planks eleven and twelve run off at the chine.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:28 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
53. We now must re draw our chine cut lines on the mahogany planking on the over run on the chines at the bow. Take a mahogany plank and aline the top edge of the plank even with the bottom mahogany planking surface starting at frame #F8. Tape in place with masking tape and at 6” intervals as you work forward toward the bow. At the point where bottom planks eleven and twelve meet the chine, your side marking plank will run over the rest of the bottom planking to the point of the stem post. Site down the edge of the marking plank for a smooth natural curve following the chine to the point of the stem post. Tape in place with masking tape and mark the top edge of the marking plank with a pencil or ball point pen
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:32 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
54. Mark the opposite side of the hull for the chine line in the same manner as the first side, making sure that the chines meet at the same point on the stem post. Remove the marking plank and tapes leaving your chine cut marks.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:34 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
55. Now a smooth right angle cut must be made on the chine line marks. You can use a sharp Xacto knife and repeatedly score the mahogany planking until you cut thru or use as we did, a Dremel moto-tool with a saw blade and carefully cut on the chine line at right angle to the side planking.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 07:42 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
56. Once cut on both sides of the hull, test fit the first of the side mahogany planking from the stem post back. You will notice that the side planking will transition from butting the bottom planking at the stem post to over lapping the bottom planking at planks eleven and twelve.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 07:43 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
57. Install the first of the side planking overlapping the stem post and butting against the cut bottom planking at the bow with the Medium CA glue. Work your way back gluing as you go every six inches or so. Remember that the side planking will transition to overlapping bottom planking at the eleven and twelve planks. After the first side plank in glued in position, trim and block sand the end of the plank true with the opposite side sub-planking at the stem post so that the opposite side plank will overlap the fist plank. Glue the second side’s plank the same as the first plank, then trim and block sand true with the outside surface of the first plank. The first and second plank runs can be completed by butt joining any of the already cut mahogany planking that will complete the runs to the transom.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 07:44 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
58. Now we must start the staggering of the butt joints of the side planking. Measure forward from the butt joint on planks one and two and place a pencil mark 6” in front of it. This will be where the next butt joint will be. Take a mahogany plank and on the same side as the last glued plank, start the plank run forward to the stem post, taping in position and marking were the stem post is on the plank. Cut the plank full of the mark and glue the plank in place starting from the butt joint mark. Once glued trim and block sand the end of the plank true with the sub planking on the opposite side of the hull. The fourth side planking will be glued, starting at the butt joint pencil mark and work forward to the stem post, where it overlap the third plank from the opposite side. The glued plank will be trimmed and block sanded true with the opposite side plank surface. The third and fourth plank runs can be completed by butt joining any of the already cut mahogany planking that will complete the runs to the transom.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 07:47 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
59. The staggered butt joint will be 6” in front of the last butt joint, where a pencil mark will be drawn on both the third and fourth planks. The fifth plank will be installed on the same side as the last glued side plank, starting from the butt joint pencil mark and working forward to the stem post. Again the plank end at the stem post must be trimmed and block sanded true with the sub-planking of the opposite side of the hull. The sixth plank must be run from the butt joint pencil mark forward and overlapping the fifth plank at the stem post. The fifth and sixth plank runs can be completed by butt joining any of the already cut mahogany planking or new planking that will complete the runs to the transom. NOTE: you will see that the planking at the stem post will be interlocking with every row of planking.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 07:48 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
60. There are two more rows of planking to be installed in the same manner as you have completed. The seventh and eight side planks butt joint pencil marks will be 6” in BACK OF the last butt joint. They will be fitted and glued in place the same as the planks that proceeded.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Last edited by frankg; Mar 31, 2012 at 10:28 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 07:48 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
61. The last row of side planking to be completed will have their butt joint 6” in front of the last row butt joint. Once glued in place the plank can be trimmed and block sanded with the opposite side planks surface.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 07:51 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
62. This completes the side planking until the sub-deck is installed and sanded true. You can carefully bock sand the completed bottom planking and side planking with 120 grit sand paper to even out the planking before cutting the hull lose from the building board. Finish sanding will take place after all the hull and deck planking is completed.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 07:56 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
63. The hull can now be cut free of the building board by cutting the legs on the frames and the hull righted.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 08:00 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
64. All the frame feet must be cut flush with the shears using a razor saw. Using a block sander true up the frames with the shears.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 08:03 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
65. The interior bottom blocking can be glued in place with 12 minute epoxy, from the laser cut lite ply wood parts #BB1 (4 pcs.) and #BB2 (2 pcs.). The #BB1 blocking will be placed on both sides of the keel doublers between frame #F7 and #F8 as well as between #F8 and #F9. The #BB2 blocking will be glued in on both sides of the keel doublers between frame #F9 and #F10.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 27, 2012, 08:06 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
66. The 3/8” hard balsa keel doubler blocking part #KDB, is glued in with the 12 minute epoxy glue alongside the keel doublers from frame #F10 to the Transom.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 12:52 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
67. In the engine compartment, between frames #F5 and #F7, the laser cut sections of the keel and keel doublers must cut free for the clearance of the motor mount board.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 12:58 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
68. The bottom of frame #F6, the laser cut section of the frame must also be cut free for the motor mount board.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 01:04 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
69. Once the blocking is in place and engine space cut out, dust and vacuum out the interior of the hull. You must now coat the entire interior of the hull with a penetrating epoxy mix. Using a two part epoxy (Z-POXY), we mixed enough epoxy to coat the entire interior of the hull. Once mixed, we thinned out the epoxy with a few caps full of XYLENE thinner to make the mix almost water consistency. Using a throw away brush, we proceeded to coat the entire interior of the hull, from the stem post to the transom.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Last edited by frankg; Nov 12, 2013 at 11:36 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 08:31 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
70. If the model is to be remote controlled or have the optional light package installed in the boat, we must run the hidden wiring in the hull at this time. The light wiring from the light package #715L, must be strung thru the laser cut holes in the frames, underneath the right side shear, from frame #F10.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 08:32 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
71. The wire will continue thru the frames thru the engine area between frames #F7 to #F5.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 08:34 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
72. The wire will come thru frame #F3 and then across to the center and thru the frame again.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 08:37 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
73. The kit includes a hidden antenna wire which is built into the hull to eliminate the un slightly external antennas. The builder can choose not to use it if he or she wishes. We have used this type of antenna arrangement in all of our models, including the new 2.4 GHZ radios. The antenna wire is feed thru the holes in the frames starting from in back of frame #F10 and going forward thru the cockpit area frames thru fame #F7.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 08:38 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
74. The antenna wire continues thru the engine area frames up and thru frame #F1. At the end of the antenna wire we tied a large not with the wire to prevent the wire to pull back thru the frame.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 07:40 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
75. From laser sheet S1, remove frames (5A) and (7A). The two frames will be glued into their respective slots in the shears with medium CA glue
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 07:44 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
76. Remove the engine hatch frames (EHF) from the laser sheet S3. Note that the frames have a laser etch “F” marked on the front for the frame. This end of the frame will face frame #5A. Slide the engine hatch frames in their slots in frames #5A and #7A. Glue the engine hatch frames to frames #5A and #7A with medium CA glue on the out sides of the engine hatch frames only. Now making sure that the engine hatch frames have their slots seated on frames #F5 and #F6, glue the frames in on the out side only with the medium CA glue.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 10:36 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
77. Remove the rear hatch frames (RHF) from laser sheet S1. Note that the frames have a laser etch “F” marked at the front of the frame. This side of the frames will slide into their slots of frame #F10 and the back will slide into the slots of frame #F11. Glue into the slots on the out sides of the rear hatch frames.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 10:38 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
78. Cut two pieces of 1/8” x 1/4” bass wood 5-15/32” long. The two pieces will be glued to the bottoms of the rear hatch frames flush with the outsides of the frames, giving you a 1/8” stop ledge on the inside of the frames for the hatch.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 10:41 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
79. Cut two pieces of 3/16” x 1/2” bass wood 10- 5/8” long. These will be the outside floor board supports. They will fit into the laser cut slots in frame #F7 sit on the frame ledges of frame #F8, F9, and F10. Once they are fit, they can be glued to the frames with medium CA glue.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 10:43 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
80. Three deck battens made from 1/8” x 3/4” x 36” hard balsa material will run from flush with the back of frame 5A to the shears on the out side and to the stem post on the center line. Once fit they can be glued in with the medium CA glue in their frame slots.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 10:45 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
81. With the same deck batten material, three deck battens must be fit and cut to run flush from the front of frame 7A to the flush with the back of frame #F7. Once fit they can also be glued into their frame slots.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 28, 2012, 10:55 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
82. The same deck batten material is used for the deck filler blocking which is cut to fit between the shears and battens all the way across the front of frame 5A. Pieces will also be fit from the (EHF)’s to the shears in back of frame 5A, in front of frame #F6, and in front of 7A. There will also be two filler blocks from the (RHF)’s to the shears, in back of frame #F10. All the blocking will be glued in with the medium CA glue. Use drawing DWG 3 for reference.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 07:44 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
83. The motor mount part “MM” is to be mounted on the angled cut out of the keel and keel doublers. First draw a center line down the center of the motor mount for the 3 1/2” length of the mount. This center line will be lined up with the center line of the keel when glued into the hull. Mix a small batch of the 12 minute epoxy glue and coat the angled surface of the keel and keel doublers. Place the motor mount board on top of the glued surface and press down making sure to line up the center line marks. Do not move the hull while the epoxy glue cures.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Last edited by frankg; Mar 29, 2012 at 08:14 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 04:36 PM
Registered User
catchthis's Avatar
USA, NY, Laurel
Joined Aug 2010
1,100 Posts
looks good! I cant wait for the 16' lyman outboard
catchthis is offline Find More Posts by catchthis
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 07:25 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
84. Next locate the running hardware, #SS15-1/2sp (prop shaft), #SB7-3/4sp (stuffing box), #0955/3 (propeller), #7037s (prop drive dog), and #71132-2 (prop nut).
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 07:29 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
. Assemble the prop drive dog, the propeller, and the streamline prop nut on the shaft so that the prop nut will tighten the propeller onto the drive dog. Slide the shaft assembly thru the strut and the propeller stuffing box making sure that the knurled end (marked end) of the stuffing box will be to the inside of the hull.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 07:32 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
86. Draw a pencil mark 2” in front of the rudder post cut out on the bottom of the hull, on the center line of the keel. This will be were the back of the strut base will sit on the bottom of the hull. Now slide the entire propeller assembly into the propeller stuffing box slot and up into the hull.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 07:37 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
87. Slide the entire propeller, strut, and stuffing box assembly into the stuffing box slot in the bottom of the hull and set the back of the strut base on the 2” mark on the center line. The strut base should sit flat against the bottom of the hull.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Last edited by frankg; Mar 29, 2012 at 07:43 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 07:42 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
88. Once in position slide the stuffing box up the prop shaft so that the entire face of the back of the stuffing box is just above the bottom of the hull.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 07:44 PM
Registered User
United States, TX, La Porte
Joined Apr 2007
1,668 Posts
Rich, looks like you will have another winner. Do you ave a price for the kit yet?
Gravman is offline Find More Posts by Gravman
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 07:53 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
89. With the strut lined up over the center line of the keel, mark the four screw holes positions in the strut with a pencil on the hull. Remove the entire assembly and drill pilot holes for the strut mounting screws. Reinstall the propeller assembly and screw the strut down to the bottom of the hull. Check to make sure that there is no binding of the prop shaft in the strut and that the shaft and the stuffing box should be turning freely in the slot thru the keel. Once the assembly is fit, glue around the strut base with the medium CA glue.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 07:58 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
90. Check inside the hull to make sure that the stuffing box is a little past flush with the face of the stuffing box to the keel cut out. Once positioned, tack glue the stuffing box in place with the medium CA glue.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 08:00 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
91. Tack glue the stuffing box to the slot from the out side of the hull with the medium CA glue.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 08:01 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
92. Take the rudder stuffing box RSB-175 and slide it into the stuffing box slot in the bottom of the hull leaving the end of the stuffing box sticking about the bottom 1/8”. As with the propeller stuffing box the knurled (marked end) of the stuffing box is toward the inside of the hull. Once in position tack glue the stuffing box in with the medium CA glue.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 08:22 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
93. Remove the propeller shaft from the hull. Inside the hull take some soft candle wax and place it around the base of the rudder stuffing box where it comes thru the keel as well as around the front of the propeller stuffing box slot inside the hull. As a safety precaution also push in some soft candle wax inside both the rudder stuffing box ends and the propeller stuffing box ends. This will prevent any resin from entering the stuffing box. Now mix a small batch of the Z-POXY epoxy finishing resin thinned with a half cap of XYLENE thinner, and carefully coat in around the base of the strut, rudder stuffing box, and the propeller stuffing box, filling the slot in the keel.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Mar 29, 2012, 08:34 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,843 Posts
GRAVMAN-We have everything done for the kit except for the laser cutting, and I am waiting to see how many orders we take at the Toledo Expo, when the model will be in static judging. We will adjust the number of kits to be cut once we have an idea of the sales. As it stands now the price for the kit will be $385.00 with $14.00 handeling in the lower 48 states.

This will be the largest Legend Model Boat Kit to date, and more mahogany than you can shake a stick at. This will also be the first time we will be offering two different power packages for the model. One will be with our Brushed motor-gear box and the other will be with our Brushless motor package, running direct drive.
frankg is online now Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cool Atosis - 1907 Gold Cup Racer Chinewalker Dock Talk 12 Apr 27, 2014 08:53 AM
Sold 75" Gold Wing Edge Racer - LPU hjcolman Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W) 2 Mar 15, 2012 11:16 PM
For Sale HP Gold Cup 40 with muffler davedwards Aircraft - Fuel - Engines and Accessories (FS/W) 2 Feb 01, 2012 08:55 PM
Sold NIB Hirtenberger 40 F-RC Gold Cup joemetal Aircraft - Fuel - Engines and Accessories (FS/W) 3 Jan 26, 2012 04:02 PM
Sold Hirtenberger 61 F-RC Gold Cup joemetal Aircraft - Fuel - Engines and Accessories (FS/W) 3 Jan 24, 2012 04:43 PM